Removing window crank handles in ;'2 145

[Gary Heston]

Greetings;

I need to remove the interior panels on my 145s doors
to lube the window and door lock mechanisms; is there
any special technique required, or do they just pull
straight off?

Thanks,


Gary

 

[James Sweet]

Greetings;

I need to remove the interior panels on my 145s doors
to lube the window and door lock mechanisms; is there
any special technique required, or do they just pull
straight off?

If they're the same as a 240 uses, you pop a little cover off and a philips
screw holds the crank on.

 

[Mike F]

Greetings;

I need to remove the interior panels on my 145s doors
to lube the window and door lock mechanisms; is there
any special technique required, or do they just pull
straight off?

Thanks,

Gary

--
Gary Heston [email protected]

"Sept. 11, 2001, already a day of immeasurable tragedy, cannot be
the day liberty perished in this country." Judge Gerald Tjoflat

There's a little clip that needs to be moved to allow the winder to come
off. This is exactly how GM held their cranks on back in those days.
You need to slide a tool between the crank and door panel and pull that
clip off. Also, the cranks are relatively solid metal, and can be
rusted in place.

--
Mike F.
Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.

Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly.
(But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.)

 

[Gary Heston]

Gary Heston wrote:

There's a little clip that needs to be moved to allow the winder to come
off. This is exactly how GM held their cranks on back in those days.
You need to slide a tool between the crank and door panel and pull that
clip off. Also, the cranks are relatively solid metal, and can be
rusted in place.

Ah, thanks. Should be interesting getting it apart.


Gary

 

[Michael Pardee]

Ah, thanks. Should be interesting getting it apart.


Gary

IIRC, the Haynes manual suggested pulling a shop towel behind the crank to
remove the clip (although the panel can be pushed back far enough to get
long nose pliers in there). To reinstall, start the clip in the groove of
the crank and push it into place with a screwdriver blade. It was actually
harder to get on than off.

Mike

 

[Mike F]

Ah, thanks. Should be interesting getting it apart.

Gary

--
Gary Heston [email protected]

"Sept. 11, 2001, already a day of immeasurable tragedy, cannot be
the day liberty perished in this country." Judge Gerald Tjoflat

Actually, upon further reflection the instructions are for the 122s.
They'll still work, but it's harder than it needs to be.

This is hard to explain, but easy to demonstrate.
For the 140 series, push the plastic ring around the winder base in
toward the door panel until it comes off the shoulder on the winder.
(This will enable you to move that ring so that it's no longer centered
around the winder base.) Then slide it toward the handle (i.e. the part
you grab with your fingers to lower the window) on the winder. This
will move the retaining spring clip, and assuming there's no rust in
play, the winder will pull right off.

 

[Gary Heston]

Actually, upon further reflection the instructions are for the 122s.
They'll still work, but it's harder than it needs to be.

This is hard to explain, but easy to demonstrate.
For the 140 series, push the plastic ring around the winder base in
toward the door panel until it comes off the shoulder on the winder.
(This will enable you to move that ring so that it's no longer centered
around the winder base.) Then slide it toward the handle (i.e. the part
you grab with your fingers to lower the window) on the winder. This
will move the retaining spring clip, and assuming there's no rust in
play, the winder will pull right off.

Thanks again; we're supposed to have a few days of decent (60F or higher)
temperatures this weekend, and I have Friday off, so I should be able
to work on the car. I'll make a point of applying antiseize when I
reinstall the winders, in case I have to go into them again.

Have a happy and safe New Years,


Gary

 

[Robert Dietz]

Thanks again; we're supposed to have a few days of decent (60F or higher)
temperatures this weekend, and I have Friday off, so I should be able
to work on the car. I'll make a point of applying antiseize when I
reinstall the winders, in case I have to go into them again.

Have a happy and safe New Years,


Gary

There's supposed to be a metal cup, slightly larger in diameter than the
hairpin clip that secures the handle. It fits inside the recess on the
door panel side of the plastic trim ring. If you side the plastic trim
ring off center along a line parallel to the handle arm the hairpin clip
is dislodged enough to allow the handle to come free of the splines with
just a little wiggling. A little like a chinese puzzle but very simple
when learned.

Bob