S70 ABS module defeat?

I've had that faulty PC board problem with my 98 S70 for a while.

Is there any way I can simply defeat the ABS module by undoing aor
taking out a fuse or something rather than the constant switching back
and forth.

Obviously, you can drive the car without ABS apparently.

Also, I've seen some photos on taking that module out for a
rebuild....how difficult is it getting it out?

THANKS

 

Those modules are known for their bad soldering. It shouldn't be too
difficult to repair this yourself if you know how to solder.

Try to google a bit for more information.

Good luck!

Marc

 

It's pretty easy to repair the module, certainly less work than trying to
disable it.

 

Electronics is my business -- so that's good. I've seen some web
instructions on getting it out but just looking at it it seems awful
cramped in there (and the bolts are hard to see -- facing downwards?).

I'll get it out....any tips?

I'd buy a rebuilt one off Ebay but apparently I have an odd part
number that isn't stocked.

I have the T5.

 

--

Hi,

I've just finished repairing the module from my '96 850, and electronics is
also my business. Have a look at
http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/chat/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?p=46827#46827 if
you already haven't.

Removing the module on my car (right hand drive non-turbo) took less than
15minutes. Access was good. I also had a set of Torx sockets. Removing
the 4 "one-way" spring clips on the module case was not too difficult, but
opening the case took me at least an hour. I was trying to not damage it.
I used a piece of flat spring steel about 2mm wide, bent at 90degrees to
scrape as much silicone as I could from the groove, then some brute force
and leverage.

Inside the PCB is coated with a thick silicone-like conformal coating. I
had to peel it off the socket pins to get a good look at them. The pins for
the two pin connector were obviously fractured (after the coating was
removed). I cleaned the coating from all of the connector pins desoldered
and then resoldered them, although I think only the two big ones needed it.
I used clear nail polish to reseal the PCB, and a neutral cure silicone
sealant (made by Selleys) to reseal the casing, used sparingly. Then after
the case was back together I ran a bead around the gap, and smeared with my
finger and wiped the excess with a rag dipped in mineral turpentine, to
neaten it up. I put it back on the car almost straight away, but left it
overnigh before starting. Although the tube says 72 hours to completely
cure, a big blob I had left over seemed "solid" overnight.

Unit has worked fine ever since (about 5 days so far).


regards
Barry

 

Thanks Barry -- looks pretty straightforward.

The electronics I can do in my sleep but I get frustrated with bolt
positions and the access to these things....but I'll try it.
I'd be a piss poor mechanic.

No patience.

 

--

How can you be involved in electronics and not have patience )

barry

 

No grease or back pain.