S70 ABS module defeat?

Discussion in 'Volvo S70' started by mkr5000, Nov 8, 2007.

  1. mkr5000

    mkr5000 Guest

    I've had that faulty PC board problem with my 98 S70 for a while.

    Is there any way I can simply defeat the ABS module by undoing aor
    taking out a fuse or something rather than the constant switching back
    and forth.

    Obviously, you can drive the car without ABS apparently.

    Also, I've seen some photos on taking that module out for a
    rebuild....how difficult is it getting it out?

    mkr5000, Nov 8, 2007
  2. mkr5000

    Marc Guest

    Those modules are known for their bad soldering. It shouldn't be too
    difficult to repair this yourself if you know how to solder.

    Try to google a bit for more information.

    Good luck!

    Marc, Nov 8, 2007
  3. mkr5000

    James Sweet Guest

    It's pretty easy to repair the module, certainly less work than trying to
    disable it.
    James Sweet, Nov 9, 2007
  4. mkr5000

    mkr5000 Guest

    Electronics is my business -- so that's good. I've seen some web
    instructions on getting it out but just looking at it it seems awful
    cramped in there (and the bolts are hard to see -- facing downwards?).

    I'll get it out....any tips?

    I'd buy a rebuilt one off Ebay but apparently I have an odd part
    number that isn't stocked.

    I have the T5.
    mkr5000, Nov 9, 2007
  5. mkr5000

    Baz Guest



    I've just finished repairing the module from my '96 850, and electronics is
    also my business. Have a look at
    http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/chat/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?p=46827#46827 if
    you already haven't.

    Removing the module on my car (right hand drive non-turbo) took less than
    15minutes. Access was good. I also had a set of Torx sockets. Removing
    the 4 "one-way" spring clips on the module case was not too difficult, but
    opening the case took me at least an hour. I was trying to not damage it.
    I used a piece of flat spring steel about 2mm wide, bent at 90degrees to
    scrape as much silicone as I could from the groove, then some brute force
    and leverage.

    Inside the PCB is coated with a thick silicone-like conformal coating. I
    had to peel it off the socket pins to get a good look at them. The pins for
    the two pin connector were obviously fractured (after the coating was
    removed). I cleaned the coating from all of the connector pins desoldered
    and then resoldered them, although I think only the two big ones needed it.
    I used clear nail polish to reseal the PCB, and a neutral cure silicone
    sealant (made by Selleys) to reseal the casing, used sparingly. Then after
    the case was back together I ran a bead around the gap, and smeared with my
    finger and wiped the excess with a rag dipped in mineral turpentine, to
    neaten it up. I put it back on the car almost straight away, but left it
    overnigh before starting. Although the tube says 72 hours to completely
    cure, a big blob I had left over seemed "solid" overnight.

    Unit has worked fine ever since (about 5 days so far).

    Baz, Nov 10, 2007
  6. mkr5000

    mkr5000 Guest

    Thanks Barry -- looks pretty straightforward.

    The electronics I can do in my sleep but I get frustrated with bolt
    positions and the access to these things....but I'll try it.
    I'd be a piss poor mechanic.

    No patience.
    mkr5000, Nov 11, 2007
  7. mkr5000

    Baz Guest


    How can you be involved in electronics and not have patience :))

    Baz, Nov 11, 2007
  8. mkr5000

    mkr5000 Guest

    No grease or back pain.
    mkr5000, Nov 12, 2007
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