S70 tensioner tool

  • Thread starter Thread starter Michael
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Michael

Where can I buy the serpentine belt tensioner tool?

I've searched a dozen online volvo parts places with no luck.

Is there an online source with a good price on one?

THANKS
 
Michael said:
Where can I buy the serpentine belt tensioner tool?

I've searched a dozen online volvo parts places with no luck.

Is there an online source with a good price on one?
Click to expand...

I bought the one from IPD a few years ago, IIRC it is pretty much a
3/4" drive.
 
I saw on a web site where someone made a tool from
a vice grip clutching a couple of quarters.

On the tensioner, I see a crosshatch (+) slot.

Do you get into this slot and twist to release?

CCW? CW?

How far? 1/2 turn? full?

THANKS
 
Michael said:
I saw on a web site where someone made a tool from
a vice grip clutching a couple of quarters.

On the tensioner, I see a crosshatch (+) slot.

Do you get into this slot and twist to release?

CCW? CW?

How far? 1/2 turn? full?
Click to expand...


The belt is self tensioning via the automatic tensioner. I presume you want
to slacken the belt to remove it?

My tool for the later cars [1]is a short strip of steel which will fit
between two corners of the cross to which i clamp a pair of self locking
grips (wrench - "Molegrips" / "visegrips" ) etc to the spare bit sticking
out so as to turn the tensioner against the spring enough to remove the
belt.

[1] earlier cars have a square hole where a 1/2" wrench will fit in quite
nicely.
Tim..
 
Thanks Tim.

Do you turn counter clockwise or clockwise?
How far?

(I just want to know what to expect....don't want to screw anything up).

When it slackens, does it stay in the loose position or does it tighten up
again when you let off?

Is it a spring action or something?
 
Thanks Tim.

Do you turn counter clockwise or clockwise?
How far?

(I just want to know what to expect....don't want to screw anything
up).

When it slackens, does it stay in the loose position or does it
tighten up again when you let off?

Is it a spring action or something?
Click to expand...

If you stand in front of the car and you have the
lever arm above the square hole attachment point
you then pull the lever towards you.
You are pulling againist a spring so you must hold force on
the lever the whole time. Pull gently but frimly till it stops
and hold it there and now remove belt.
Once the belt is off you can slowly reduce tension.
depending on the tool you are using you may find that the small
hose (3/4" diamater or so) from the coolant recovery bottle is
in the way of your lever. I found this to be the case as the
tensioner with no belt in place will rotate farther than if a belt
were in place. I temporarily used some wire to hold the tool
I used in the full forward position while I got the old belt off
and new one on.

I have seen the vise grip and 3 coins picture. I keep that idea
in the back of my mind in case I am stranded some time, but
decided to make a tool from a piece of flat stock, a piece of 3/4" square
bar stock and two socket head cap screws.
I would think that if one had the right width flat stock and could heat it
up to bend it it could be a one piece tool.

I have seen IPD selling one for approx 30$us plus around 10$us for us
shipping and decided to make my own instead.

ascii art of the tool I made,
top view
___________________________________________
| |
|________________________________________ _|
| |
| |
-
front view
___________________________________________
| /\ |
|________________________________________\/_|




hope this conveys the message as you can see I am not skilled
at ascii art.

Can one attach very small jpgs in this newsgroup to show a point
like this clearly???
 
ascii art of the tool I made,
top view
___________________________________________
| |
|________________________________________ _|
| |
| |
-
front view
___________________________________________
| /\ |
|________________________________________\/_|




hope this conveys the message as you can see I am not skilled
at ascii art.

Can one attach very small jpgs in this newsgroup to show a point
like this clearly???
Click to expand...



OPPS!!! ascii art may not work at all depending on your font and other
matters, sorry.
 
Hey thanks a million.....I'll print out your instructions
and get working on this.

I think I'll fabricate some sort of tool as well.

This is one repair that I'm not going to be gouged on......
650.00 just to replace the alternator is ridiculous.

Electronics is my specialty......I can't understand why they just don't pull
the AC out of these things and do all the rectification and regulation
outboard.

THANKS
 
Hey thanks a million.....I'll print out your instructions
and get working on this.

I think I'll fabricate some sort of tool as well.

This is one repair that I'm not going to be gouged on......
650.00 just to replace the alternator is ridiculous.

Electronics is my specialty......I can't understand why they just
don't pull the AC out of these things and do all the rectification and
regulation outboard.

THANKS
Click to expand...

Well at a minimum there is a battery to charge.
There is voltage regulation.
I think it is simpler to have all you supply in one place, imagine
how many places would have to have diode bridges, caps, and voltage
regulators built in, many places for failure, heat dissapation beyond
what is now needed in each item that uses power.

It could be done.
 
Michael said:
Hey thanks a million.....I'll print out your instructions
and get working on this.

I think I'll fabricate some sort of tool as well.

This is one repair that I'm not going to be gouged on......
650.00 just to replace the alternator is ridiculous.

Electronics is my specialty......I can't understand why they just don't pull
the AC out of these things and do all the rectification and regulation
outboard.

THANKS
Click to expand...

It probably has something to do with "how it's always been done". Back
in the old days, generators kept batteries charged, and there were no
solid state diodes. In a generator, power is generated in the rotor,
and was rectified by means of brushes on a commutator. So DC came out
of the generator, so that's how alternators were designed. Some
motorcycles do have a separate diode pack / regulator.

--
Mike F.
Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.

Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly.
(But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.)
 
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