SRS light comes on - wipers and horn won't work

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by Skonnie, May 15, 2008.

  1. Skonnie

    Skonnie Guest

    When I start my '90 740 Turbo, the SRS will stay lit. Perhaps
    coincidentally, the radio, wipers and horn will not work while the SRS
    light is lit. I've figured out that by jiggling the key in the
    ignition, the light will go off and that everything on the car works
    fine after that. Not a problem, right? Unfortunately, the guy
    inspecting my car considers this to be a problem.

    I've cleared the fault codes as well as reset the Service light that
    comes on upon starting (the service light still comes on), all to no
    avail. Someone a while back suggested my ignition switch as the
    culprit.

    Thoughts?
     
    Skonnie, May 15, 2008
    #1
  2. And you didn't listen to that guy because..?

    Methinks he was on to something.
     
    Chuck Fiedler, May 15, 2008
    #2
  3. Skonnie

    Skonnie Guest

    Just looking for alternate (read: simpler and cheaper) theories. In
    particular, ones that don't involve me dismantling my dash. Its
    always worth a try, right?
     
    Skonnie, May 15, 2008
    #3
  4. Skonnie

    James Sweet Guest


    Agreed, this can turn into a serious issue. I'd second suspecting the
    ignition switch.
     
    James Sweet, May 15, 2008
    #4
  5. I'm guessing here but I *think* we're talking a disgusting amount
    ($~150) for the part and maybe an equal amount for a non-dealer
    mechanic to do the work.

    Do you have an independent mechanic who does Volvos? These ain't just
    any mechanics.

    Might want to let us know where you are and someone else here may know
    a knowledgible mechanic to use.
     
    Chuck Fiedler, May 15, 2008
    #5
  6. Skonnie

    James Sweet Guest


    How about a junkyard part? Cheap, I don't think it's very hard to
    replace. As I recall, the key lock portion is separate from the switch
    portion.
     
    James Sweet, May 15, 2008
    #6
  7. There is something that can be done about the traffic
    Two thoughts:

    Not everyone is into going to junkyards and all that entails and then,
    presumably doing the repair themselves, although there is much to be
    said for, and saved by, doing this.

    Also, IIRC, most cars have a lock (the part the key operates) and the
    switch (electrical part that makes the car run) and they're seperable.
    Could be wrong in this instance.

    My advice remains to see a good mechanic with Volvo familiarity.
     
    Chuck Fiedler, May 15, 2008
    #7
  8. On Thu, 15 May 2008 05:05:48 -0500, Chuck Fiedler

    <Lengthy news article snipped>

    Sorry for posting the news article. Human error.
     
    Chuck Fiedler, May 15, 2008
    #8
  9. Skonnie

    Skonnie Guest

    Sounds like the consensus is that its the ignition switch. Guess
    that's my next project.

    I'm in Austin, and there are three good shops here that I'd trust with
    my Volvo. However, I'm still going to try and replace it myself.
    Found a used ignition switch for about $45. I think I'm most freaked
    by installing the switch, which involves drilling out two bolts or
    cutting straight slots into the bolts for removal. Would this be
    necessary if I simply replace the switch? According to my '82-'88
    manual, the two bolts hold both the switch as well as the key lock
    portion, so I'm guessing I have to remove both.
     
    Skonnie, May 15, 2008
    #9
  10. Skonnie

    Skonnie Guest

    Almost forgot to ask - is there a any sort of test or diagnostic I can
    run to see if the ignition switch is bad?
     
    Skonnie, May 15, 2008
    #10
  11. If you have a Haynes or other good manual and it says this is what's
    necessary, I'd buy it as fact. I seem to recall this being the case.
    If you slot-cut them, you can reuse them. If you drill them out (which
    I would be disinclined to do), you would need to buy two new ones.

    As for your second note, I don't know of any diagnostic test that will
    isolate this matter. I am inclined to think this is the most likely
    culprit and, if you can fix it for $45 and a little labor, it's
    certainly not wasted.

    You might check with Beasley Motors there in Austin to get a wrapped
    price for the whole job. I have had very good luck with them. Of
    course, they don't set parts prices but it's worth knowing what your
    sweat is worth.
     
    Chuck Fiedler, May 15, 2008
    #11
  12. Skonnie

    Skonnie Guest

    Never taken it to Beasley, but I've heard they are good sorts.
    Phoenix and Vol-Tech have done work for me, both with good results.

    Haynes does not mention having to cut slots in the bolts but Chilton
    does. Time to find a friend with a dremel tool. Thanks for your
    advice, it helped a great deal.
     
    Skonnie, May 16, 2008
    #12
  13. Not living in Austin (I'm in Dallas), I'm not familiar with Phoenix
    nor Vol-tech. Have ordered parts from Beasley since they were some
    other name I can't recall. They give a VCOA discount and were much
    cheaper, even with freight, than the Dallas folk. I see from the
    latest issue of Rolling that Vol-tech also gives a VCOA discount.

    Good luck and enjoy standing on your head. Oh yeah, wear goggles when
    you do this. Metal shavings in the eye are kinda painful (don't ask
    how I know).

    Chuck Fiedler
    Nothing but Volvo since 1974
     
    Chuck Fiedler, May 16, 2008
    #13
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