Timing belt question...850

  • Thread starter Thread starter Ron /Champ 6
  • Start date Start date
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Ron /Champ 6

I just bought a '94 850 ( non-turbo), my first Volvo in about 15
years. It has 67,000 miles, and the timing belt is original. Needless
to say, that will be changed ASAP, like this evening.

I bought a Haynes manual on eBay last night, but of course I won't
have it tonight.

Can someone give me a quick run-down of where the timing marks are on
the cam and crank? Anything unique to changing it on this engine?
Anything else I should do while I am at it, ie belt tensioner, any
seals, and...whatever?

Thanks!


BTW, what is the preferred service manual for the 850 series? The last
few Haynes I've bought seem to cover only the very basic maintenance
items.

Ron/Champ 6

1963 8E5 Champ (Champ 6)
1962 Lark Daytona Convertible (Boomerang)
1992 VW Passat (Taxi)
1995 VW Passat (Vanilla..yuk)
 
Bev A. Kupf said:
Here are the instructions:
<http://www.volvospeed.com/Repair/timingbelt.htm>
Click to expand...


This is an excellant 'how-to' step by step. i would add the following:

1) I would strongly suggest replacement of the water pump, idler roller and
tensioner roller when you do the t/belt. See the above post as to what can
happen if the bearings in either fail shortly after.

2) Add new accessory drive belt too.

3) It's *very* important to compress the hydraulic tensioner *slowly*. If
you're doing it in a vice do 1/4 turn every minute or so. Any quicker and
you'll bugger the internal seals leading to an incorrectly tensioned belt
which may flap and fly off when the engine is running. = mashed valves = new
head.

4) A new genuine Volvo belt will have white lines on it which line up with
the timing points cast into the cam sprockets and is alot easier to fit,
although still fiddly. You'll probably end up fitting it 2 or 3 times
whilst keeping the timing marks in line.

5) When you are sure the marks are right, pull out the pin to the tensioner
and go have a coffee to let the piston pop out. Then slowly turn the engine
over twice by hand in direction of rotation and re check the timing marks.

Tim..
 
Thanks!
That's probably better than the manual anyhow! There's a bunch of hard
to see fasteners on this engine aren't there?
 
This is an excellant 'how-to' step by step. i would add the following:

1) I would strongly suggest replacement of the water pump, idler roller and
tensioner roller when you do the t/belt. See the above post as to what can
happen if the bearings in either fail shortly after.
Click to expand...

I see a Volvo tensioner roller is about as good as a VW...found out
the hard way on a 16V Passat. Didn't know I had a second idle roller
as well, or is this on the accessory belt?
2) Add new accessory drive belt too.
Click to expand...

Yep, I did plan on that as well
3) It's *very* important to compress the hydraulic tensioner *slowly*. If
you're doing it in a vice do 1/4 turn every minute or so. Any quicker and
you'll bugger the internal seals leading to an incorrectly tensioned belt
which may flap and fly off when the engine is running. = mashed valves = new
head.
YIKES!

4) A new genuine Volvo belt will have white lines on it which line up with
the timing points cast into the cam sprockets and is alot easier to fit,
although still fiddly. You'll probably end up fitting it 2 or 3 times
whilst keeping the timing marks in line.
Click to expand...

Gotta go 30 miles to the dealer, but it sounds well worth the drive.
 
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