Trailer Hitch on 2005 XC70

[BobT]

Hi
I am picking up a new XC70 .... eventually I'll need to put a trailer hitch on it for my utility trailer. Anyone know which one is better for this type car.
Thanks,

 

[Bengt]

| Hi
| I am picking up a new XC70 .... eventually I'll need to put a trailer | hitch on it for my utility trailer. Anyone know which one is better | for this type car. | Thanks, |

Don't know for sure--my '04 XC70 starts every morning without a hitch.

 

[Robert (2)]

Hi
I am picking up a new XC70 .... eventually I'll need to put a trailer hitch on it for my utility trailer. Anyone know which one is better for this type car.
Thanks,

I don't really know what you're asking advice for.

I suppose you're asking if a dealer hitch is better than an aftermarket hitch?

I have an aftermarket hitch on my 760GLE, it is a Class 2 (North American) hitch rated at 3500 lbs. The car can tow up to 3300 lbs. I have towed 3000 lbs (pulling my race car and a tandem axle trailer, along with tools, spare rims/tires, race fuel, etc..)

It pulled without problems with an aftermarket hitch. The OEM Volvo hitch is a different design, and that is why I stayed away from it.

Getting back to cars made in this century, I'd say get a hitch that suits your maximum towing capacity. The trouble with some aftermarket hitches is that the "fit" isn't perfect. Mine sure wasn't, but it went on and still does the trick, it was also $200 less expensive!

 

[Stephen Henning]

I am picking up a new XC70 .... eventually I'll need to put a trailer hitch on it for my utility trailer. Anyone know which one is better for this type car.

I have a '01 V70 XC. My dealer warned me not to get the Volvo trailer hitch since it cost $800 and was not compatible with US receiver accessories. Also, Volvo didn't have a wiring kit even though the car has a plug with all of the right connections in the spare tire compartment.

I went to U-Haul and got a Class II hitch (300# tongue load and 3,500# gross weight) with a 1.25" receiver. It is great. It is U-Haul model 36297 and costs $115. It only took U-Haul 30 minutes to install so it was a good fit. It is black and the receiver is under the bumper and forward so it isn't very noticeable.

The U-Haul receiver is $19.95 and curves up so that it is positioned behind the bumper.

For wiring, I got a wiring kit from a trailer shop near by for $20. The kit has the black box that converts the brakes plus 2 signals to 2 signals so that it will be compatible with the standard 4 pin plugs. I wired it into the plug next to the spare tire. Then I ran it through a passage to the lower right tail light access door. It is completely out of site. When I need it, I just open the door and run it out under the tailgate door through the rubber gasket. The advantage of the kit is that it has black shrouds that cover the wires and a cap that snaps over the end that plugs into the trailer when it isn't being used.

I am very pleased with how it worked out. The best part is that it doesn't cause the bulb-out light to come on.

 

[Robert (2)]

I have a '01 V70 XC. My dealer warned me not to get the Volvo trailer hitch since it cost $800 and was not compatible with US receiver accessories. Also, Volvo didn't have a wiring kit even though the car has a plug with all of the right connections in the spare tire compartment.

I went to U-Haul and got a Class II hitch (300# tongue load and 3,500# gross weight) with a 1.25" receiver. It is great. It is U-Haul model 36297 and costs $115. It only took U-Haul 30 minutes to install so it was a good fit. It is black and the receiver is under the bumper and forward so it isn't very noticeable.

The U-Haul receiver is $19.95 and curves up so that it is positioned behind the bumper.

For wiring, I got a wiring kit from a trailer shop near by for $20. The kit has the black box that converts the brakes plus 2 signals to 2 signals so that it will be compatible with the standard 4 pin plugs. I wired it into the plug next to the spare tire. Then I ran it through a passage to the lower right tail light access door. It is completely out of site. When I need it, I just open the door and run it out under the tailgate door through the rubber gasket. The advantage of the kit is that it has black shrouds that cover the wires and a cap that snaps over the end that plugs into the trailer when it isn't being used.

I am very pleased with how it worked out. The best part is that it doesn't cause the bulb-out light to come on.

Your trailer light kit should completely bypass the current sensing devices. My kit has a wire that runs directly to the battery or local power source. The tail lights only send signal to the box, which then sends voltage to the trailer lamps. The regular device was $20, the one I needed was around $65. If I had chosen the first kit, it would have blown my current sensing "bulb out" warning lamp, eventually at least.

 

[BobT]

Thanks Steve ... this is exactly what I needed to hear. I have owned a 79,89,90,98,2000 and now , as of today .... a 2005 XC70. I have a small utility trailer that I use occasionally but have never had a hitch on a car. I always had another vehicle which I used. Your information is appreciated

 

[Stephen Henning]

My kit has a wire that runs directly to the battery or local power source. The tail lights only send signal to the box, which then sends voltage to the trailer lamps. The regular device was $20, the one I needed was around $65. If I had chosen the first kit, it would have blown my current sensing "bulb out" warning lamp, eventually at least.

I hooked directly to the tail light wires and it doesn't blow anything out. The bulb out lamp works just fine. I have used trailers quite a bit the past 3 years on my '01 XC70. By the way, a fault won't burn out the bulb warning light. It operates off a magnetic sensor.