used car buying comparisons

[russell]

I'm looking to buy a "new" volvo in the next two months, something in
the 1-2,000 dollar price range for a college car. I'm currently
looking at the pricing on 88-91 240s, 740s, and 940s and was wondering
what the significant differences or problems might be. Currently I own
an 81 240 which has all the usual gremlins attached to it, leaking
windshield, wipers don't turn off, but lately it's picked up the
annoying habit of not starting about 5% of the time and not amount of
cajoling will work, it still gets 27mpg highway and leaks a quart
every 3,000 so I plan on driving it through the winter. But it's time
for it to go. So what are some of the major disfunctions/disadvantages
to the different models. About all I know so far is that rust seems to
be the predominant demise of most Volvos so the next one is coming
from CT or PA and not salty NY. Any advice on whats better or what
specifically to watch for I'd appreciate any answers. And if anyone
knows how to make an old 240 start every time that'd be just as good.
So far I've tried a new ignition coil(old one was water filled, don't
know how it worked), distributer cap and roter, spark plugs, spark
plub wires, and the two wires leading to the ignition coil to no
success, the pump can be heard pressurizing the line after it's sat
for awhile and weather doesn't concern it. Thanx in advance. -Russ

 

[www.ttdown.com]

I'm looking to buy a "new" volvo in the next two months, something in
the 1-2,000 dollar price range for a college car. I'm currently
looking at the pricing on 88-91 240s, 740s, and 940s and was wondering
what the significant differences or problems might be. Currently I own
an 81 240 which has all the usual gremlins attached to it, leaking
windshield, wipers don't turn off, but lately it's picked up the
annoying habit of not starting about 5% of the time and not amount of
cajoling will work, it still gets 27mpg highway and leaks a quart
every 3,000 so I plan on driving it through the winter. But it's time
for it to go. So what are some of the major disfunctions/disadvantages
to the different models. About all I know so far is that rust seems to
be the predominant demise of most Volvos so the next one is coming
from CT or PA and not salty NY. Any advice on whats better or what
specifically to watch for I'd appreciate any answers. And if anyone
knows how to make an old 240 start every time that'd be just as good.
So far I've tried a new ignition coil(old one was water filled, don't
know how it worked), distributer cap and roter, spark plugs, spark
plub wires, and the two wires leading to the ignition coil to no
success, the pump can be heard pressurizing the line after it's sat
for awhile and weather doesn't concern it. Thanx in advance. -Russ

Consider what you can repair versus replacing what you will spend
purchasing a "new" brick.
You will most likely still want to fix the problems on your new car
that whoever has it now has decided to live with.
For 2 large you can make a 240 just about new.
PS
Check the fuel pump relay
AJ

 

[Joseph Oberlander]

1991-1993 240.

Black leather interior. ABS. Stickshift. Wagon.

IIRC, 1990 was the first year they fixed the biodegradeable harness.
Rock solid cars for not a lot of money.

 

[Bill Stehlin]

Stick w/ 240s. Harness problem fixed in '88. '88 a good year but I
believe '89+ systems better (LH-2.4). Personally I would avoid ABS
since when you have problems, they're $$$, and basic Volvo braking
system one of the best. Airbag not essential, but if a seller thinks
that it needs to be replaced after 10 years, at high cost, price could
come down. For a college car, try to find an '89-'91 close to
$1000-$1500, and plan to spend $1000 getting it into mechanical shape.
What's a little extra when your NY insurance is probably $1000/yr.
I would forget about PA or CONN (lots of salt) and look to DC area
(Washington Post) and south.

'87 245 (retiring w/ 300K+ miles)
'89 245
'89 245 (college car)
'92 240
'93 245