V70 D5 Idle RPM

  • Thread starter Thread starter Marc Amsterdam
  • Start date Start date
M

Marc Amsterdam

Hi

I find my D5 having quite a high idle RPM as in just above 1000RPM.
This makes the geartronic to crawl at the trafiic lights.
so what should be the idle speed, and, what could ( apart from a cold
engine) be the cause.
I checked the ECG, seems OK, and there is no rought idle either, nor
power loss.

Cheers

Marc
 
Hi

I find my D5 having quite a high idle RPM as in  just above 1000RPM.
This makes the geartronic to crawl at the trafiic lights.
so what should be the idle speed, and, what could ( apart from a cold
engine) be the cause.  
I checked the ECG, seems OK, and there is no rought idle either, nor
power loss.
Click to expand...

Warm idle with my C70 D5 as well as my former V70 D5 (185hp) is or was
at 750 RPM which is the correct value.
Let it check at the dealer. They can hook the car to a diagnosis-
computer and find out what is wrong.
Cheers
Click to expand...

Keep us updated
Marc
Click to expand...

Joerg
 
Warm idle with my C70 D5 as well as my former V70 D5 (185hp) is or was
at 750 RPM which is the correct value.
Let it check at the dealer. They can hook the car to a diagnosis-
computer and find out what is wrong.
Click to expand...


car is in for new front discs and pads next tuesday. I'll ask them

It is just that i don trust dealers anymore after an atempted rip of
buy a pug dealer in Amsterdam.
Keep us updated
Click to expand...



will do! thnx for the input
 
Hi

I find my D5 having quite a high idle RPM as in  just above 1000RPM.
This makes the geartronic to crawl at the trafiic lights.
so what should be the idle speed, and, what could ( apart from a cold
engine) be the cause.  
I checked the ECG, seems OK, and there is no rought idle either, nor
power loss.

Cheers

Marc
Click to expand...

6-700 is better, maybe the IAC
 
I feel stupid!


today i drove the car again, with the first thing to note that the
1000 rpm mark is actually at the second bold stripe instead of the
first.... so the car has actually a nic 650 rpm in idle.

however the car is in for new front brake disks tomorow ( damn
expensive)
I'm not yet comfortable with changing the discs myself yet , i don't
know if there is any special tools to be used nor do i have the place
to do such . It is not allowed to tinker your Automobil in the
streets of Amsterdam anyway. So the dealer earns 110 euro's ( ex
parts) for changing the discs+ pads as he takes 1.5 hour to do
such....
We'll see how he reacts to me scrutenizing the work done...! I was
concieved ( like many) on the back seat of a car and born above the
dealers workshop ( simca/fiat/lancia) of my parents! and i don't like
aprenticeses working in my car, not for 73 euro's an hour!

so now back to the crawling when idling.
I'm not reaaly used to drive automatic so i have litlle to compare
with. I know this is to some extend normal, and i dont mind keeping to
foot on the brake, but as it is it crawls at 1 km an hour so i guess
this is within specs. However is this something that can be adjusted
or is the torque converter not regulated.
Also i find the gearshift somewhat slow, and again is this adjustable
in the Vadis or should i jus accept this as is.
Then, is there any aftermarket part to get the controls of the
Geartronic to the steering wheel ( flapy pedal?) It should be a simple
enough conversion as the gearlever itself is nothing more than a
switch in the first place.

cheers!

Marc
 
Hi

I find my D5 having quite a high idle RPM as in just above 1000RPM.
This makes the geartronic to crawl at the trafiic lights.
so what should be the idle speed, and, what could ( apart from a cold
engine) be the cause.
I checked the ECG, seems OK, and there is no rought idle either, nor
power loss.

Cheers

Marc
Click to expand...

6-700 is better, maybe the IAC

The OP'ers car is a D5- therefore no IAC.

Tim
..
 
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Marc Amsterdam said:
so now back to the crawling when idling.
I'm not reaaly used to drive automatic so i have litlle to compare
with. I know this is to some extend normal, and i dont mind keeping to
foot on the brake, but as it is it crawls at 1 km an hour so i guess
this is within specs. However is this something that can be adjusted
or is the torque converter not regulated.
Click to expand...

The torque converter is running stalled when the car is stationary but in
Drive. Its input torque is propoprtional to the square of input speed. Its
output torque is input torque multiplied by whatever the torque ratio is at
stall - probably about 2. The torque being transmitted to the wheels is
multiplied further by the gearbox and final drive. If this is sufficient to
overcome the static rolling resistance, the car will creep.

Aside from keeping your foot on the brake, the only ways to stop creep are
either to reduce the idle speed or to select a higher gear. In practice, you
probably can't do either because the idle speed is probably set by the ECU
and the gearbox will probably start off in first even if you manually select
a higher gear.
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!
 
Roger said:
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,


The torque converter is running stalled when the car is stationary but in
Drive. Its input torque is propoprtional to the square of input speed. Its
output torque is input torque multiplied by whatever the torque ratio is at
stall - probably about 2. The torque being transmitted to the wheels is
multiplied further by the gearbox and final drive. If this is sufficient to
overcome the static rolling resistance, the car will creep.

Aside from keeping your foot on the brake, the only ways to stop creep are
either to reduce the idle speed or to select a higher gear. In practice, you
probably can't do either because the idle speed is probably set by the ECU
and the gearbox will probably start off in first even if you manually select
a higher gear.
Click to expand...


I've never driven anything with an automatic that wouldn't creep at idle
if you let up on the brake.
 
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,




The torque converter is running stalled when the car is stationary but in
Drive. Its input torque is propoprtional to the square of input speed. Its
output torque is input torque multiplied by whatever the torque ratio is at
stall - probably about 2. The torque being transmitted to the wheels is
multiplied further by the gearbox and final drive. If this is sufficient to
overcome the static rolling resistance, the car will creep.
Click to expand...
Ah! creeping was the word, thank you!

Aside from keeping your foot on the brake, the only ways to stop creep are
either to reduce the idle speed or to select a higher gear. In practice, you
probably can't do either because the idle speed is probably set by the ECU
and the gearbox will probably start off in first even if you manually select
a higher gear.
Click to expand...

Thank you for the insight, i'm just a hopelessly oldfasioned stick
driver... I got a similar answer from de volvo dealer today. Thay
also seem to be profesionals, got the brakes sorted, got a curtesy
bicycle, and a DAMN good espresso while wating for the mechanic to
come back from a test drive to see if he had done a proper job.
Expensive though!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top