Vacuum Pump

[Mark Cook]

I am looking for an electric vacuum pump. I understand that some of the
mid-80s Volvo used them. What models? Where are they located on the car?

Thanks,
Mark

 

[Rod Gray]

The turbo models had vacuum pumps located on the left wheel well in the
engine compartment.

 

[James Sweet]

The turbo models had vacuum pumps located on the left wheel well in the
engine compartment.

700 series turbos did anyway, I don't recall there being one in my 240.

 

[brackenburn]

Hi Mark,

The cruise control on my '93 240 classic wagon has an electrically driven
vacuum pump. It is located in the engine compartment, high up on the
firewall (bulkhead), on the left-hand side (facing forward). There are
three wires connected to it, Yellow/red, Orange, and Green or Green/Yellow.
AFAIK this is also true for 240 models from '85 onward equipped with cruise
control.

Good Luck.
Andy I.

 

[Mark Cook]

First, thanks for all of the suggestions, I found one on turbo car.

Second, this one had 3 wires, red, black, and pink.

Red positive?

Black ground?

Pink??

Is there a regulator? Is it adjustable? Does it run all of the time?

Thanks again,
Mark

 

[Bruce Pick]

I also need cruise control information re. my '86 non-turbo 240.

Would a bad elec. vacuum motor cause this kind of failure....? Or what
would be a likely cause?

My cruise control only works occasionally, and even then usually quits
within 1-2 minutes. I've gone over the vacuum lines and don't see any
problems there. It seems like an intermittent electrical problem. I've
had cruise controls with a vacuum leak, which caused it an inability to
maintain speed when a heavier "foot" was needed. This one usually won't
activate at all, and then will cut out unexpectedly. No problem with
maintaining speed when active.

It started out years ago as always working, then quitting occasionally,
and finally now being unavailable most of the time.

Any help is appreciated.

Bruce Pick
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[Mike F]

I also need cruise control information re. my '86 non-turbo 240.

Would a bad elec. vacuum motor cause this kind of failure....? Or what
would be a likely cause?

My cruise control only works occasionally, and even then usually quits
within 1-2 minutes. I've gone over the vacuum lines and don't see any
problems there. It seems like an intermittent electrical problem. I've
had cruise controls with a vacuum leak, which caused it an inability to
maintain speed when a heavier "foot" was needed. This one usually won't
activate at all, and then will cut out unexpectedly. No problem with
maintaining speed when active.

It started out years ago as always working, then quitting occasionally,
and finally now being unavailable most of the time.

Any help is appreciated.

Bruce Pick
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
To send email, remove all < > and [ ] and the junk ~ between:
[brucepick1]
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Hook your foot under the brake pedal and pull it up, see what happens.
If this fixes it, then adjust the brake pedal swith. (It's the one with
the vacuum hose.)

--
Mike F.
Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.

NOTE: new address!!
Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly.
(But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.)

 

[Bruce Pick]

Thanks - tried that already.

Do you know how to test the motor on the firewall front, and the signal
going to it?

Bruce
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
To send email, remove all < > and [ ] and the junk ~ between:
[brucepick1]
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I also need cruise control information re. my '86 non-turbo 240.

Would a bad elec. vacuum motor cause this kind of failure....? Or what
would be a likely cause?

My cruise control only works occasionally, and even then usually quits
within 1-2 minutes. I've gone over the vacuum lines and don't see any
problems there. It seems like an intermittent electrical problem. I've
had cruise controls with a vacuum leak, which caused it an inability to
maintain speed when a heavier "foot" was needed. This one usually won't
activate at all, and then will cut out unexpectedly. No problem with
maintaining speed when active.

It started out years ago as always working, then quitting occasionally,
and finally now being unavailable most of the time.

Any help is appreciated.

Bruce Pick
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
To send email, remove all < > and [ ] and the junk ~ between:
[brucepick1]
< a~t >
[comcast.net]

Hook your foot under the brake pedal and pull it up, see what happens.
If this fixes it, then adjust the brake pedal swith. (It's the one with
the vacuum hose.)

 

[Mike F]

Thanks - tried that already.

Do you know how to test the motor on the firewall front, and the signal
going to it?

Bruce

All my cruise control problems have been with the brake switch
adjustment save 2. On one of my older 240s I had a dead computer, but I
had 2 cars with identical cruise, so after testing the switches, I
started swapping parts. The other problem involved the bulb failure!
relay. Volvo cruise computers are grounded through the brake light
bulbs. If all the bulbs are blown (or the bulb failure relay is bad)
the cruise doesn't work.

--
Mike F.
Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.

NOTE: new address!!
Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly.
(But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.)

 

[Bruce Pick]

Mike,

Thanks! If I recall, I may have dissaabled the bulb failure relay by
snipping its output wire. I'll have to look.

Can you give any detail on the brake switch? I'd guess that since it
grounds via the brake light, the cruise ctrl's brake switch probably
breaks that ground to disable only the cruise ctrl's output to the
"throttle". Leaves basic power to the Cr Ctrl active to maintain the
speed set.

Can I manually force the switch to allow cruise control for testing, or
test it with a meter?

Do you know how to test the firewall motor with a meter??

Thanks in advance,
Bruce
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
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[Mike F]

Mike,

Thanks! If I recall, I may have dissaabled the bulb failure relay by
snipping its output wire. I'll have to look.

The output of the sensor doesn't matter. For the purpose of the cruise
control only one brake light has to work.

Can you give any detail on the brake switch? I'd guess that since it
grounds via the brake light, the cruise ctrl's brake switch probably
breaks that ground to disable only the cruise ctrl's output to the
"throttle". Leaves basic power to the Cr Ctrl active to maintain the
speed set.

There is one switch for the brake lights, and a second vacuum/electrical
to both turn the cruise off electrically and dump the vacuum to release
pressure on the throttle.

Can I manually force the switch to allow cruise control for testing, or
test it with a meter?

The electrical part should open/close as you push the plunger in and
out, and the vacuum part should allow airflow with the plunger out and
not allow it with the plunger in. At most about 1/16" should be showing
on the plunger with the brake pedal up.

Do you know how to test the firewall motor with a meter??

Sorry, no idea, I've never had to.

Thanks in advance,
Bruce

--
Mike F.
Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.

NOTE: new address!!
Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly.
(But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.)

 

[Bruce Pick]

Thanks.
We'll see how it goes. I'm having some much more major work done on it
"as we speak", so I'll have a look at the Cruise Control once I get it back.

(It's getting a new head - at 360 K miles the head gasket leaked
pressure from Cyl 1 -> Cyl 2, and testing after pulling the head showed
that it was cracked. It hasn't overheated in a LONG time, so my guess
is that the gasket held things together until now.)

Bruce
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