Vacuum Pump

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by Mark Cook, Feb 20, 2004.

  1. Mark Cook

    Mark Cook Guest

    I am looking for an electric vacuum pump. I understand that some of the
    mid-80s Volvo used them. What models? Where are they located on the car?

    Thanks,
    Mark
     
    Mark Cook, Feb 20, 2004
    #1
  2. Mark Cook

    Rod Gray Guest

    The turbo models had vacuum pumps located on the left wheel well in the
    engine compartment.
     
    Rod Gray, Feb 20, 2004
    #2
  3. Mark Cook

    James Sweet Guest

    700 series turbos did anyway, I don't recall there being one in my 240.
     
    James Sweet, Feb 21, 2004
    #3
  4. Mark Cook

    brackenburn Guest

    Hi Mark,

    The cruise control on my '93 240 classic wagon has an electrically driven
    vacuum pump. It is located in the engine compartment, high up on the
    firewall (bulkhead), on the left-hand side (facing forward). There are
    three wires connected to it, Yellow/red, Orange, and Green or Green/Yellow.
    AFAIK this is also true for 240 models from '85 onward equipped with cruise
    control.

    Good Luck.
    Andy I.
     
    brackenburn, Feb 21, 2004
    #4
  5. Mark Cook

    Mark Cook Guest

    First, thanks for all of the suggestions, I found one on turbo car.

    Second, this one had 3 wires, red, black, and pink.

    Red positive?

    Black ground?

    Pink??

    Is there a regulator? Is it adjustable? Does it run all of the time?

    Thanks again,
    Mark
     
    Mark Cook, Feb 29, 2004
    #5
  6. Mark Cook

    Bruce Pick Guest

    I also need cruise control information re. my '86 non-turbo 240.

    Would a bad elec. vacuum motor cause this kind of failure....? Or what
    would be a likely cause?

    My cruise control only works occasionally, and even then usually quits
    within 1-2 minutes. I've gone over the vacuum lines and don't see any
    problems there. It seems like an intermittent electrical problem. I've
    had cruise controls with a vacuum leak, which caused it an inability to
    maintain speed when a heavier "foot" was needed. This one usually won't
    activate at all, and then will cut out unexpectedly. No problem with
    maintaining speed when active.

    It started out years ago as always working, then quitting occasionally,
    and finally now being unavailable most of the time.

    Any help is appreciated.

    Bruce Pick
    ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
    To send email, remove all < > and [ ] and the junk ~ between:
    [brucepick1]
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    Bruce Pick, Mar 1, 2004
    #6
  7. Mark Cook

    Mike F Guest

    Hook your foot under the brake pedal and pull it up, see what happens.
    If this fixes it, then adjust the brake pedal swith. (It's the one with
    the vacuum hose.)

    --
    Mike F.
    Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.

    NOTE: new address!!
    Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly.
    (But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.)
     
    Mike F, Mar 1, 2004
    #7
  8. Mark Cook

    Bruce Pick Guest

    Thanks - tried that already.

    Do you know how to test the motor on the firewall front, and the signal
    going to it?

    Bruce
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    Bruce Pick, Mar 2, 2004
    #8
  9. Mark Cook

    Mike F Guest

    All my cruise control problems have been with the brake switch
    adjustment save 2. On one of my older 240s I had a dead computer, but I
    had 2 cars with identical cruise, so after testing the switches, I
    started swapping parts. The other problem involved the bulb failure!
    relay. Volvo cruise computers are grounded through the brake light
    bulbs. If all the bulbs are blown (or the bulb failure relay is bad)
    the cruise doesn't work.

    --
    Mike F.
    Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.

    NOTE: new address!!
    Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly.
    (But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.)
     
    Mike F, Mar 2, 2004
    #9
  10. Mark Cook

    Bruce Pick Guest

    Mike,

    Thanks! If I recall, I may have dissaabled the bulb failure relay by
    snipping its output wire. I'll have to look.

    Can you give any detail on the brake switch? I'd guess that since it
    grounds via the brake light, the cruise ctrl's brake switch probably
    breaks that ground to disable only the cruise ctrl's output to the
    "throttle". Leaves basic power to the Cr Ctrl active to maintain the
    speed set.

    Can I manually force the switch to allow cruise control for testing, or
    test it with a meter?

    Do you know how to test the firewall motor with a meter??

    Thanks in advance,
    Bruce
    ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
    To send email, remove all < > and [ ] and the junk ~ between:
    [brucepick1]
    < a~t >
    [comcast.net]
     
    Bruce Pick, Mar 3, 2004
    #10
  11. Mark Cook

    Mike F Guest

    The output of the sensor doesn't matter. For the purpose of the cruise
    control only one brake light has to work.
    There is one switch for the brake lights, and a second vacuum/electrical
    to both turn the cruise off electrically and dump the vacuum to release
    pressure on the throttle.
    The electrical part should open/close as you push the plunger in and
    out, and the vacuum part should allow airflow with the plunger out and
    not allow it with the plunger in. At most about 1/16" should be showing
    on the plunger with the brake pedal up.
    Sorry, no idea, I've never had to.


    --
    Mike F.
    Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.

    NOTE: new address!!
    Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly.
    (But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.)
     
    Mike F, Mar 3, 2004
    #11
  12. Mark Cook

    Bruce Pick Guest

    Thanks.
    We'll see how it goes. I'm having some much more major work done on it
    "as we speak", so I'll have a look at the Cruise Control once I get it back.

    (It's getting a new head - at 360 K miles the head gasket leaked
    pressure from Cyl 1 -> Cyl 2, and testing after pulling the head showed
    that it was cracked. It hasn't overheated in a LONG time, so my guess
    is that the gasket held things together until now.)

    Bruce
    ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
    To send email, remove all < > and [ ] and the junk ~ between:
    [brucepick1]
    < a~t >
    [comcast.net]
     
    Bruce Pick, Mar 4, 2004
    #12
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