Volvo 245- 86 Motor B230A with carburator

Discussion in 'Volvo 240' started by Lennart, Aug 27, 2003.

  1. Lennart

    Lennart Guest

    Hi
    I have a very strange motor problem with my old Volvo-86 model 245 with
    motor 245A with carburator. (manual gearbox no fuel injection)
    After start the motor runs perfectly normal, it responds to more trottle and
    runs smoothly.
    After about 30 seconds it suddenly almost dies and starts to run very
    unstable or stops, hardly any responce to more throttle.
    If I restart it the same behaviour occurs so the fault situation is
    possibly to repeat.
    If I start it again at once the fault behaviour comes back a bit quicker
    and with a longer stop in about 30 seconds.

    What I have already tryed to do
    Changed the ignition module (the little black transistor or thyristor box)
    "twice".
    Tryed with another ignition coil.
    Dismounted the carburator and checked it/cleaned it.
    Try to spray fuel direct into the carburator before the motor stops.(no
    improvement of the unstable behaviour)
    Dismounted the fuel pipe to see that gasoline comes to the carburator.

    What I think more.
    Could the hall-element in the distributor cause this behaviour??

    Have any one else seen this behaviour or found a solution? or have an good
    idea how to go on with the fault finding and diagnose.


    Best regards
    Lennart from Sweden
     
    Lennart, Aug 27, 2003
    #1
  2. Hi Lennart.

    I do also have the exact same engine than you, '86 model 244, and have had
    almost the same problem that you describes. I agrees with Vestman, with the
    list of things to check. That's the most basic things. However, I would like
    to add something to the list, because those things didn't solve my problem.

    I had to replace my EGR valve and tubes on mine, because it was filled with
    filth(and water, pretty suprisingly), and the when I tested the EGR valve,
    by putting wacuum on it, it didn't move. The EGR valve's fuction is to open
    for some exhaust to be "burn" ones more and that is supposted to open and
    close depending on the temperature in the engine. This system is connected
    to the vacuum (carburator and the vacuum "clock"), and can cause that kind
    of behaviour.

    The EGR-valve is located under the the carburator, mounted on the motor
    block. One tube is connected on the top of the ingoing manifoil, and the
    other goes around the engine, to the outgoing manifoil (exhaust system),
    between the engine and the firewall. Check for injuries or cracks on them as
    well.

    Feel free to send mail directly to me at faane(a)webogdata.no, for
    description in Norwegian/Swedish.

    Hope the information will be usefull.

    Hälsning från
    Leiv Magne Faane, Norway
    '86 Volvo 244 GLE, B230A, 260000 km
     
    Leiv Magne Faane, Aug 28, 2003
    #2
  3. Lennart

    Lennart Guest

    Hi Leiv Magne
    Thanks for your suggestion with the EGR valve.
    I have already checked it, I can feel moving with my finger when i give more
    trottle.
    But when i read your answer I remember that there is a filter somwere in
    that area which might have to be cleaned.
    /Lennart
    PS: The strange thing with my problem is that it happens suddenly, like
    something get overheated and suddenly stops working.
     
    Lennart, Aug 28, 2003
    #3
  4. Thanks for your suggestion with the EGR valve.

    You can check that the EGR-tubes that is connected to the EGR valve, has
    free flow (that the tubes are open, so you can blow through them). One of
    mine were all filled with burned particles along the sides inside of it, and
    the other only had about 2 mm hole through it, and it shoul be around 7-9
    mm.
    Hmm, I'm not sure that filter you are refering to, but from the top of the
    air filter, you probably got a thick rubber tube, going to the other side of
    the engine block, with a black cylinder formed plastic thing on it. That
    thing reminds me of some kind of filter. I don't know of any other filters,
    but I'm not a proffessional mechanics.
    Strange. I can't say I actually let it run on idle to this happend for me,
    but mine could run smoothly untill I have had driven 200 meter, and then
    suddenly started to not respond when I tried to accellerate, and make my car
    jump like a animal, and I had to constantly keep the engine up around
    1500-1800 rpm, to keep the engine running. And on long distanse trips, I
    could drive normally for hours, and then suddenly, the engine lost all power
    and died out. But when I started it, 2 seconds later everything worked fine
    again.

    I'm not sure you have the same problem as I had. Problably not since you EGR
    valve worked as it should. I had to use a flat screewdriver and a hammer, to
    get it loose, so I think the previous owner didn't care must about his car,
    not as much as I do anyway. =)

    I wish you the best of luck, and don't give up too soon.


    - Leiv Magne Faane, Norway
    '86 Volvo 244 GLE, B230A, 260000 km
     
    Leiv Magne Faane, Aug 28, 2003
    #4
  5. Lennart

    Gary W Guest

    the fall effect sensor i had that problem,,, the car runs great untill
    it's warmed up , then at randome times it just cut's out and the tach drops
    like a stone. have you ever looked @ the tach? does it fall faster than the
    engine, aka the tach hit's 0 and the engine is still dieing?
    another way to tell is when you turn the engine over once the car is dead,
    does the tach twitch at all (a couple hundred rpm's)

    if it's just cutting out a little bit here and there, then, does it help the
    bring up the rpms?

    thoes were all signs of when mine went out. I hope this helped.

    Gary




     
    Gary W, Aug 29, 2003
    #5
  6. Lennart

    Lennart Guest

    Hi
    I think I now have located my problem to the Hall element in the
    distributor.
    But then i runned into next problem, How to dismount the little metallic cup
    which rotates and gives the pulses to the sensor.
    I have removed the littel lock spring but the metal cup is stucked to the
    distributor-axel and i havent found a method to remove it without risk to
    brake it, anyone found a good method,
    I also tryed with som heat from a small propane burner.
    /Lennart from Sweden
     
    Lennart, Aug 31, 2003
    #6
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