Volvo 740 gle 16 valve - replace distributor cap

[austjeremy]

I have a noob question. Ok. I want to replace my distributor cap,
rotor, and wires. I have been told that if you mess this stuff up you
can screw up the timing. So, is this the same timing that makes the 16
valves smash up when the belts break? It would really suck to cause
such a problem. In addition, how do I know if my distributor cap,
rotor, and wires needs replacing? I do not know when they where
replaced last. I have only had my car 2 months. One of which was spent
in the shop. My car drives good now. It just takes 2 to 3 seconds for
the car to start after I turn the key. It would be nice if it started
right after I turned the key, without having to listen to that sound.

Ps. Is there any way to filter coolant instead of flushing it. Could I
just drain the over flow tank. I mean oil and gas does rise to the top
of water right? I just got my car back from the shop and it has oil and
gas in the coolant. The coolant is only a few days old. In addition,
since my head issues, I have flushed and changed it like 5 times. I
really do not want to do it again. Although, I want to make sure that
the head gasket is not leaking. I can't afford any more coolant.

 

[Michael Pardee]

I have a noob question. Ok. I want to replace my distributor cap,
rotor, and wires. I have been told that if you mess this stuff up you
can screw up the timing. So, is this the same timing that makes the 16
valves smash up when the belts break? It would really suck to cause
such a problem. In addition, how do I know if my distributor cap,
rotor, and wires needs replacing? I do not know when they where
replaced last. I have only had my car 2 months. One of which was spent
in the shop. My car drives good now. It just takes 2 to 3 seconds for
the car to start after I turn the key. It would be nice if it started
right after I turned the key, without having to listen to that sound.

Ps. Is there any way to filter coolant instead of flushing it. Could I
just drain the over flow tank. I mean oil and gas does rise to the top
of water right? I just got my car back from the shop and it has oil and
gas in the coolant. The coolant is only a few days old. In addition,
since my head issues, I have flushed and changed it like 5 times. I
really do not want to do it again. Although, I want to make sure that
the head gasket is not leaking. I can't afford any more coolant.

The timing is not the same as the valve timing, which can endanger the
engine. As long as you don't loosen the distributor base the timing should
not be affected.

There are a lot of philosophies about when to change the cap, rotor, wires
and plugs. I think whatever the owner's manual says is best, but since you
don't know how old they are I suggest you consider it when the bank account
has recovered a bit. The slow start probably isn't from the ignition, but
from the fuel pressure leaking down on the fuel rail. That is easily checked
by the old shadetree test: hit the starter for about half a second, wait
about two seconds and then try starting. During that interval the main fuel
pump has been running and restoring pressure. If the engine fires right up,
that's the problem. The usual cause is the check valve at the fuel pump
output, although leaky injectors can do the same. The cheap and easy thing
to try is a bottle of fuel injector cleaner in the tank. It might help, or
it might not. I've been starting my car with the bump and crank method for
years now.

Since the coolant is worrying you, also try this confidence test. With the
engine cold, start it and remove the reservoir cap. Put the palm of your
hand over the opening and feel for about 5 seconds. If you feel steadily
rising pressure, like it will burp every couple seconds, it is a good
indication of a head gasket leak. If not, maybe you're better off not
looking too closely at your coolant. ;-)

Mike