volvo turns over, won't fire

  • Thread starter Thread starter jmjrgaitan
  • Start date Start date
J

jmjrgaitan

1998 Volvo V70 XC AWD 2.4L, 5 cyl.

I recently pulled the engine and transmission in order to replace old
seals and gaskets. The car has 225,000 miles and was leaking
everywhere, but other than that, the car was running fine. We had
driven it around many times before pulling the engine. I finished the
work and put the engine back in, and the car turns over strongly, but
won't fire. There is no spark getting to the plugs so I checked the
distributor wire coming from the coil. There was no spark either. I
have checked the crankshaft positioning sensor and the camshaft
positioning sensor. Both check out good. I checked all fuses to make
sure none were burnt. All good. I double checked all connectors to all
sensors and cleaned them with connector cleaner to ensure good
contact. I double checked the timing and alignment marks and even put
a compression tool in the number 1 cylinder to make sure that it is on
top dead center. I even compared it to another engine in the
junkyard. There are no codes although I am using a regular code
reader not specifically for Volvo's. And, yes, the ground strap from
the body is tight. Since then, I have also rechanged the crank sensor
and the camshaft sensor and put a new coil. Nothing. Then I replaced
the main engine relay. Still nothing. I located the automatic
shutdown relay and there is no lack of voltage to any so I assume they
are fine too. Where does that lead me? I have hit rock bottom. Any
help on why I am getting no spark?
Jacob

Here are some ideas from others below:

Number 1 did you rehook ground strap on firewall to engine block,or
your coilpack could be bad.if you have distributor try replaceing pic
up modgul in it.

Number 2 Did you re-install the ground strap from the engine to the
body and/or frame? Also, check the automatic shutdown relay, as it
supplies battery voltage to the ignition coils.

Number 3 how about crank sensor or ecm fuse in fuse box.if crank
sensor is not position correct will not fire make sure it is not
rubing h.balancer.i think volvo put it their.if not check back of
trans if every thing is ok it has to be one of the 2 not to get spark.
let me know.
 
1998 Volvo V70 XC AWD 2.4L, 5 cyl.

I recently pulled the engine and transmission in order to replace old
seals and gaskets. The car has 225,000 miles and was leaking
everywhere, but other than that, the car was running fine. We had
driven it around many times before pulling the engine. I finished the
work and put the engine back in, and the car turns over strongly, but
won't fire. There is no spark getting to the plugs so I checked the
distributor wire coming from the coil. There was no spark either. I
have checked the crankshaft positioning sensor and the camshaft
positioning sensor. Both check out good. I checked all fuses to make
sure none were burnt. All good. I double checked all connectors to all
sensors and cleaned them with connector cleaner to ensure good
contact. I double checked the timing and alignment marks and even put
a compression tool in the number 1 cylinder to make sure that it is on
top dead center. I even compared it to another engine in the
junkyard. There are no codes although I am using a regular code
reader not specifically for Volvo's. And, yes, the ground strap from
the body is tight. Since then, I have also rechanged the crank sensor
and the camshaft sensor and put a new coil. Nothing. Then I replaced
the main engine relay. Still nothing. I located the automatic
shutdown relay and there is no lack of voltage to any so I assume they
are fine too. Where does that lead me? I have hit rock bottom. Any
help on why I am getting no spark?
Jacob

Here are some ideas from others below:

Number 1 did you rehook ground strap on firewall to engine block,or
your coilpack could be bad.if you have distributor try replaceing pic
up modgul in it.

Number 2 Did you re-install the ground strap from the engine to the
body and/or frame? Also, check the automatic shutdown relay, as it
supplies battery voltage to the ignition coils.

Number 3 how about crank sensor or ecm fuse in fuse box.if crank
sensor is not position correct will not fire make sure it is not
rubing h.balancer.i think volvo put it their.if not check back of
trans if every thing is ok it has to be one of the 2 not to get spark.
let me know.
Click to expand...

This would seem an easy to fix problem.

Firstly, I presume the ECU is actually being powered up with ignition on? Do
you have the MIL lamp lit, and fuel pump prime etc happening when you turn
on?

Next, do you have fuel being injected whilst cranking? If not, then you have
no primary ignition signal to the ECU (i.e. cam position sensor or crank
sensor- both must be good)

If you do have injection and the tacho needle moving, then the fault must be
secondary ignition:

The ignition amp is mounted behind the coil. It has a 5 pin connector. Check
this plug is correctly seated and that there is +12v at it with ignition on
(supplied via the main relay)

I dont have the pinouts to hand at the moment, but there should be +12v,
ground (ring tag is trapped behind mounting bolt) switching wire (back to
ECU) and output wire (direct to coil)

I will find the pinouts if it helps, but they are quite easy to determine.

Tim..
 
This would seem an easy to fix problem.

Firstly, I presume the ECU is actually being powered up with ignition on? Do
you have the MIL lamp lit, and fuel pump prime etc happening when you turn
on?

Next, do you have fuel being injected whilst cranking? If not, then you have
no primary ignition signal to the ECU (i.e. cam position sensor or crank
sensor- both must be good)

If you do have injection and the tacho needle moving, then the fault must be
secondary ignition:

The ignition amp is mounted behind the coil. It has a 5 pin connector. Check
this plug is correctly seated and that there is +12v at it with ignition on
(supplied via the main relay)

I dont have the pinouts to hand at the moment, but there should be +12v,
ground (ring tag is trapped behind mounting bolt) switching wire (back to
ECU) and output wire (direct to coil)

I will find the pinouts if it helps, but they are quite easy to determine.

Tim..- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -
Click to expand...

Thanks for all the ideas. I got fed up with it all and finally took
it to the dealership to save my sanity. It ended up being a bad crank
sensor even though I changed it TWICE. Both were from the junk yard,
BUT what's my luck to pick up TWO bad sensors? They must be pretty
delicate. Oh well, atleast it starts! On the way home, we got a new
code (p0715) Back to checking more sensors! Wish me luck.
Thanks again!
 
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