We decided to do the stupid and replace the heater blower fan a 85 240 wagon.

  • Thread starter Thread starter Marc
  • Start date Start date
M

Marc

Since we've almost got it all the way apart I want to replace the heater
core. Can this be done without taking the A/C condenser out? If not is
there a good site that shows me how or how can it be done?

Marc.
 
Since we've almost got it all the way apart I want to replace the heater
core. Can this be done without taking the A/C condenser out? If not is
there a good site that shows me how or how can it be done?

Marc.
Click to expand...
Take the car to a shop that can discharge/recover the freon in the
system.

Disconnect the two hoses going to the evaporator from the firewall.
Remove the four or so metal clips around the white plastic cover on the
right hand side of the heater box. Give a tug and slide the evaporator
out of the box and put it aside. Leave the condensor in the car next to
the radiator, it doesn't need to go anywhere ;)

Bob
 
User said:
Take the car to a shop that can discharge/recover the freon in the
system.

Disconnect the two hoses going to the evaporator from the firewall.
Remove the four or so metal clips around the white plastic cover on the
right hand side of the heater box. Give a tug and slide the evaporator
out of the box and put it aside. Leave the condensor in the car next to
the radiator, it doesn't need to go anywhere ;)

Bob
Click to expand...


Also plug off the hoses with something, I suggest replacing the
receiver/dryer any time you open the system, it's cheap insurance.
 
Thanks guys! The more I work on this car the less impressed I am with it
from a service stand point. Since its a old freon system what do I need to
upgrade it to a 134 system - seals and a compressor dryer of course.

Marc
 
Thanks guys! The more I work on this car the less impressed I am with it
from a service stand point. Since its a old freon system what do I need to
upgrade it to a 134 system - seals and a compressor dryer of course.

Marc
Click to expand...
At this point R12 and R134a are about the same price so leaving it as
R12 would probably be the better choice. It will also function as
designed, and no worries about underated hose and compressors seals and
such. The lines that are separated should be resealed with the new
oversize green or yellow o-rings.

Bob
 
Marc said:
Thanks guys! The more I work on this car the less impressed I am with it
from a service stand point. Since its a old freon system what do I need to
upgrade it to a 134 system - seals and a compressor dryer of course.
Click to expand...


The HVAC system is the Achilles heal of the 240, aside from that they're
fantastic cars for the DIY mechanic. Don't give up yet on it.
 
User said:
At this point R12 and R134a are about the same price so leaving it as
R12 would probably be the better choice. It will also function as
designed, and no worries about underated hose and compressors seals and
such. The lines that are separated should be resealed with the new
oversize green or yellow o-rings.

Bob
Click to expand...


Huh? Last time I checked R12 was about 10 times the cost of R134a and
you have to be licensed to buy it (I am) but I always just convert the
systems I work on.
 
Marc said:
Thanks guys! The more I work on this car the less impressed I am with it
from a service stand point. Since its a old freon system what do I need to
upgrade it to a 134 system - seals and a compressor dryer of course.
Click to expand...

That'd be "downgrade", not "upgrade". The A/C will perform worse with
R134a... For a system that was a bit borderline to start with, that is
not good!
 
Huh? Last time I checked R12 was about 10 times the cost of R134a and
you have to be licensed to buy it (I am) but I always just convert the
systems I work on.
Click to expand...

Just one example: http://store.lenzdist.com/

R134a 30# cylinder $125 down from over $300 last summer
R12 30# cylinder $189 down from over $200 last summer or $500 the year
before or nearly $1000 a few years ago.

Bottom line a serviceable R12 system can be returned to operating
condition for quite a bit less than the labor involved to convert to
134a. The JiffyLube and radiator places around here are charging about
$2 an ounce for 134a and won't do any r12 systems. So if a shop still
has r12 equipment available to do a recharge it will be cheaper.

Bob
 
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