1965 Amazon -- Window Fell Into Door

  • Thread starter Thread starter argosllc
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argosllc

Hi, all. I have a 1965 122S, and while it will never be a show car,
it's a fun car for putting around the neighborhood, and even with
almost 300k miles, it keeps on going without much complaining. Here's
the problem. Today, when rolling down the driver's window, I felt a
little bit of a slip 2/3 of the way down. I should have stopped
immediately, but I didnt, and the window dropped into the door.

The top of the window is now about 3 or 3.5 inches below the top of
the frame, and I can't reach it with needle-nosed pliers. I got a
flexible wire claw and tried to line it with a thin rubber washer to
get a grip, but no luck. The door isn't in tremendously good shape,
so I'd rather not take it apart myself, but I'd also rather not pay
someone $100 to do the same. Does anyone have any magic suggestions
for how to get the window up and back on track? Even if I have to
keep it rolled up permanently, that's fine. Los Angeles doesn't get
much rain, but I'd love to have the window rolled up again before we
do.

Thanks!

Cormac
 
Hi, all. I have a 1965 122S, and while it will never be a show car,
it's a fun car for putting around the neighborhood, and even with
almost 300k miles, it keeps on going without much complaining. Here's
the problem. Today, when rolling down the driver's window, I felt a
little bit of a slip 2/3 of the way down. I should have stopped
immediately, but I didnt, and the window dropped into the door.
Click to expand...
The top of the window is now about 3 or 3.5 inches below the top of
the frame, and I can't reach it with needle-nosed pliers. I got a
flexible wire claw and tried to line it with a thin rubber washer to
get a grip, but no luck. The door isn't in tremendously good shape,
so I'd rather not take it apart myself, but I'd also rather not pay
someone $100 to do the same. Does anyone have any magic suggestions
for how to get the window up and back on track? Even if I have to
keep it rolled up permanently, that's fine. Los Angeles doesn't get
much rain, but I'd love to have the window rolled up again before we
do.
Click to expand...

To fix whatever the problem is, you're going to have to take the
interior panel off the door. That also gives you the opportunity
to lubricate the lock mechanism, which it's probably overdue for.


Gary
 
Thanks!

I think I have the service manual somewhere. Would that have
instructions sufficient for someone who's moderately mechanically
inclined, or should I bite the bullet and go to a mechanic?

Thanks again!

Cormac
 
Thanks!
Click to expand...
I think I have the service manual somewhere. Would that have
instructions sufficient for someone who's moderately mechanically
inclined, or should I bite the bullet and go to a mechanic?
Click to expand...
[ ... ]

If your window crank handles are like my 145, getting them off will
probably be your biggest challenge. You have a mirror-image example
of how it goes together in the passenger door.

I'm told the handles are held on with C-clips.


Gary
 
Body trim work is in the last chapter of Haynes manual for the 120/130/1800
models:

1. Remove 2 screws to armrest.
2. Note inner and outer door handle positions, so they can be put back the
same positions.
3. Depress handle escutcheon and with small screwdriver remove circlip
located between the handle and depressed escutcheon. Withdraw both handles.
4. Remove 4 screws holding the upper turn molding, and lift away molding.
5. Carefully use a thin blade around the edge of the door trim panel to pry
loose the pop/snap-fasteners.
6. Lift away the trim panel.
7. If necessary, lift away the paper protectors over the holes of the inner
door frame.
8. Refitting is the reverse.

Cormac, step 3 is the one that is not explained well in the manual, but if
you can push the handle trim ring (I think it was black plastic?) against
the door panel, while pulling the handle in the opposite direction, you can
open up enough gap to see the fastening circlip hidden under the black
plastic ring.

Once you get the panel off (handle gently, it's old worn out fiberboard),
you can visually look at the window lifting parts, and you will see a length
of horizontal metal nearly as long as the bottom of the window. On my 1800
(and I assume the 122), this metal strip has a U-shaped groove that the
bottom edge of the glass rests in. This metal strip may have weakened from
age and rust, and no longer has a strong grip on the glass. The grip is
reinforced by a rubber liner that sits inside the U-groove, which may also
be aged and cracked and no longer up to snuff. Let's hope the metal strip
still has some life in it and will not require removal and replacement.
Replacing the rubber liner won't be a big problem. With a new rubber liner
in place (purchase is cheap at any auto glass shop), set the window pane in
the correct position, it should take some firm pushing to get it seated.
After that, it will stay in place with the grip of the rubber liner plus
gravity pulling it down. Also watch to make sure the window pane is in the
vertical tracks correctly, and slides up and down with ease as you operate
the crank.

Other than being gentle with old worn out fiber board and rubber components,
this is a pretty simple job.
 
I love those old cars! Had a few of them years back. Nope, no majik
solution. Take off the door panel and see whats up. I do remember the window
crank is a bee-otch to remove without the proper tool. The glass probably
just came out of the track or jumped off the gear maybe. Good Luck. M
 
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