Mike said:
I did a clutch on my '92 last summer, they should be similar. Some of
the bellhousing bolts are a complete pain to get to, and some are
different size than others. Make sure to brace the engine well, it will
move once the trans crosemember is disconnected. Get the car up in the
air enough to be comfortable under it, use a tranny jack if you have
one.. Can get by w/o if you don't mind bench pressing 75 lb or so.
Clutch itself was a piece of cake... it's the getting to it. And while
you're in there do the release bearing and pilot bearing (need a puller
for that one - I rented mine at AutoZone). They're too cheap to not do
them. And have a spare rear mainseal handy in case you find a leak,
might as well get that too while you're in there. If you don't need it,
that's a good thing, it's only a few bucks and you could probably return
it in it's original packaging for a refund.
Other things to consider while in there - the "rubber donut" on the
driveshaft, U-joints, tranny mount, motor mounts.
Took me a day to remove and replace the tranny with a new(er) one and
did the clutch also, took my time, took lotsa breaks
mkl
The last one I did we completed in about 3 hours, but were fortunate to
have access to a hydraulic lift. Do the inside the car part first, lift
up the shift boot and open the center console to disconnect the
overdrive and backup light wiring and then pop out the snap ring holding
the shifter assembly in. Now go under the car and you can do everything
else from there. You will need to have the whole car off the ground so
the rear wheels can rotate freely to get all the driveshaft bolts out.
Some long extensions and a U-joint help greatly in removing the top
bellhousing bolts. I roll the tranny on top of me and use my leg crossed
over to hold the output end then bench press the bellhousing up into
place, I never had much luck trying to do it with a tranny jack since
you have to rotate it some for the starter hump to clear the firewall.
Never needed a puller for the pilot bearing, maybe I got lucky but a
good shot of P'Blaster or Liquid wrench and it's always come out by
poking my pinky in it and giving it a little tug. Wouldn't hurt to have
one on hand I suppose. While you've got the tranny out, it's a good time
to drain it and refill with some synthetic fluid, I did that and mine
shifts noticeably more smoothly. As for the rear main, definitely have
one on hand, I'm split as to whether it should always be replaced or
left alone if not leaking. I've had them start leaking later, but I've
also had a new leak while the original one had been fine, doh!
