1986 240 DL - While driving, engine shut off ,now won't start.

  • Thread starter Thread starter chibahawk
  • Start date Start date
C

chibahawk

Last night I was on my way to watch the sopranos at my sisters house,
halfway there, I'm going down the street excelerating, and all of a sudden,
the engine shut off, i pushed the pedal to the floor ,no power.
I let it roll up to the curb,popped the hood. Eyeballed under the hood real
quick, could'nt see anything wrong. I jumped back in, and it restarted!
So, I went on to my sisters house about 3 miles, then right when i was
about to pull in the driveway, it died again. Same thing no power from gas
pedal. Very Upset, I went ahead in to watch the Sopranos.
Afterwards, I went out to try to start up, no good. (I'm not an expert at
all so excuse my car grammer) The Ignition tries to start up the engine
but, it won't turn over. Lights and radio work though.
I left it there overnight.
Today I tried again, same thing, no luck. I had my brother in law come out
to look at it, he did a few tests, still no startup.
I ended up getting it towed back home, and want hopefully to fix it myself,
So far people say it could be a number of things that could be wrong.This
will be my first attempt to fix my 1986 240 dl, which I really like,So any
Ideas or Links to websites that might help me troubleshoot are really
appreciated.
 
A few quick checks. There are about a dozen separate items that will
prevent your auto from starting and display the symptoms you described.

Are you out of gas?

Roll the fuses in the fuse panel. This cleans and reconnects them since the
different metals of the fuse and panel like to corrode and insulate
themselves. Usually evident after a long period of hummid and rainy
weather.

Remove and clean the 25 amp main system fuse located on the left fender
under the hood. One of the wires from the battery leads to this spade type
fuse clipped to the rail on the fender. Same problem as the other fuses
with hunidity.

Have your radio off. When you turn the key to ON, there should be a click
heard from the passenger side foot well area. When you turn the key to
start, there should be a second click. The first click is the fuel system
control relay, the second is the fuel pump portion of the relay closing.
Both these clicks are necessary for the auto to run.

Sometimes the relay just fails and needs replacement. Other times when the
fuel pump portion does not get a signal from a sensor in the distributor,
the fuel pumps will not turn on and no fuel pumped means no start.

To fully diagnose, you need a Bentley Manual or Volvo Service Manual. The
Haynes or Chiltons fall way short of clarity and full systemm diagnoses
capability. It could be anything from a wire from the ignition switch to a
sensor for the fuel or ignition system failing. Just do not replace the
fuel system control module. This rarely fails and is replaced by garages
who do not know better or wish to make a lot of money quick.

Duane
 
Check what Duane said. If you can hear the fuel pump running under the car,
it could be the bellows hose on the in tank pump. They rot and with less
than a half tank of gas the in tank pump cannot supply the main pump. It's
very common on older 240's.
 
A few quick checks. There are about a dozen separate items that will
prevent your auto from starting and display the symptoms you
described.

Are you out of gas?

Roll the fuses in the fuse panel. This cleans and reconnects them
since the different metals of the fuse and panel like to corrode and
insulate themselves. Usually evident after a long period of hummid
and rainy weather.

Remove and clean the 25 amp main system fuse located on the left
fender under the hood. One of the wires from the battery leads to
this spade type fuse clipped to the rail on the fender. Same problem
as the other fuses with hunidity.

Have your radio off. When you turn the key to ON, there should be a
click heard from the passenger side foot well area. When you turn the
key to start, there should be a second click. The first click is the
fuel system control relay, the second is the fuel pump portion of the
relay closing. Both these clicks are necessary for the auto to run.

Sometimes the relay just fails and needs replacement. Other times
when the fuel pump portion does not get a signal from a sensor in the
distributor, the fuel pumps will not turn on and no fuel pumped means
no start.

To fully diagnose, you need a Bentley Manual or Volvo Service Manual.
The Haynes or Chiltons fall way short of clarity and full systemm
diagnoses capability. It could be anything from a wire from the
ignition switch to a sensor for the fuel or ignition system failing.
Just do not replace the fuel system control module. This rarely fails
and is replaced by garages who do not know better or wish to make a
lot of money quick.

Duane
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info Duane,
I'm gonna try some tests tonight, and I'm gonna get my hands on a manual.
 
Roll the fuses in the fuse panel. This cleans and reconnects them since the
different metals of the fuse and panel like to corrode and insulate
themselves. Usually evident after a long period of hummid and rainy
weather.
Duane
Click to expand...

That is the one that just jailed me today. It started as an intermittent.
The spade connections on the fuse were very corroded. It is a good idea to
disconnect the battery ground if you are going to be taking a close look at
that fuse holder. One end of it goes directly to the battery.




Regards,

Boris Mohar

Got Knock? - see:
Viatrack Printed Circuit Designs http://www3.sympatico.ca/borism/
 
A few quick checks. There are about a dozen separate items that will
prevent your auto from starting and display the symptoms you
described.

Are you out of gas?

Roll the fuses in the fuse panel. This cleans and reconnects them
since the different metals of the fuse and panel like to corrode and
insulate themselves. Usually evident after a long period of hummid
and rainy weather.

Remove and clean the 25 amp main system fuse located on the left
fender under the hood. One of the wires from the battery leads to
this spade type fuse clipped to the rail on the fender. Same problem
as the other fuses with hunidity.

Have your radio off. When you turn the key to ON, there should be a
click heard from the passenger side foot well area. When you turn the
key to start, there should be a second click. The first click is the
fuel system control relay, the second is the fuel pump portion of the
relay closing. Both these clicks are necessary for the auto to run.

Sometimes the relay just fails and needs replacement. Other times
when the fuel pump portion does not get a signal from a sensor in the
distributor, the fuel pumps will not turn on and no fuel pumped means
no start.

To fully diagnose, you need a Bentley Manual or Volvo Service Manual.
The Haynes or Chiltons fall way short of clarity and full systemm
diagnoses capability. It could be anything from a wire from the
ignition switch to a sensor for the fuel or ignition system failing.
Just do not replace the fuel system control module. This rarely fails
and is replaced by garages who do not know better or wish to make a
lot of money quick.

Duane
Click to expand...

I rolled the fuses, and checked the 25 amp fuse under the hood,
still no luck.
I did'nt hear the first click from the passenger side footwell area,
nor the second click mentioned.

How difficult, or easy could this be to fix myself?

Any idea how much somthing like the problem i explained should cost to fix
at a garage?
 
Since the fuses are OK, and no click from the first relay, I'd take a wild
guess and say get a system/fuel relay and install it.

You are lucky that at this time, I have just finished finding the cause of
my system fuse (25A under hood) blowing. Caused the same no start condition
you describe. That means the info form the troubleshootiung I have done is
fresh in my mind.

If you can use a test light or VoltOhmMeter, there is one test before
replacing the relay.

If you take the knee bolster from under the passenger side dash, you will
see some wires that drape accross the bottom of the glove box. The set you
are looking for is three wires, a thick red with yellow stripe, a red wire
and a red with black stripe. This set comes out of the top of the passenger
side foot well into a white connector. Separate this connector and check
for 12 volts to ground with the ignition switch on from the red with black
stripe wire that comes from the left side of the car. If there is 12
volts,the relay is most likely bad. If no power, the ignition switch has a
problem.

The relay is a white plastic box clipped or laying against the firewall.
This rectangular box about one by two by two inches controls the fuel pumps
and injectors. They have a habit of failing at the worst time.

Duane
 
Getting this fixed at a garage can cost you from the cost of the relay ($60)
plus about $50 labor to so much it might make you want to not fix the auto.
Depends upon the garage and the honesty and compentency of the mechanics.

Duane
 
chibahawk wrote:

Any idea how much somthing like the problem i explained should cost to fix
at a garage?
Click to expand...

My guess is the wiring harness. In my 164E's case(1975, so all the
electrical "bits" were stock 240), it was a corroded battery lead.
It looked good, but when the mechanic finally took the thing off,
it snapped and there was only 20% of the wires still attached
underneath the insulation.

If you can, replace it all with more modern stuff from a
1990's 240 so that it doesn't corrode or fall apart again.
 
Since the fuses are OK, and no click from the first relay, I'd take a
wild guess and say get a system/fuel relay and install it.

You are lucky that at this time, I have just finished finding the
cause of my system fuse (25A under hood) blowing. Caused the same no
start condition you describe. That means the info form the
troubleshootiung I have done is fresh in my mind.

If you can use a test light or VoltOhmMeter, there is one test before
replacing the relay.

If you take the knee bolster from under the passenger side dash, you
will see some wires that drape accross the bottom of the glove box.
The set you are looking for is three wires, a thick red with yellow
stripe, a red wire and a red with black stripe. This set comes out of
the top of the passenger side foot well into a white connector.
Separate this connector and check for 12 volts to ground with the
ignition switch on from the red with black stripe wire that comes from
the left side of the car. If there is 12 volts,the relay is most
likely bad. If no power, the ignition switch has a problem.

The relay is a white plastic box clipped or laying against the
firewall. This rectangular box about one by two by two inches controls
the fuel pumps and injectors. They have a habit of failing at the
worst time.

Duane
Click to expand...

Thanks again Duane, I'll try the test ,and most likely end up fixing it
myself. Does'nt sound too difficult (thanks to guys in this group).
Wish me luck.
 
Since the fuses are OK, and no click from the first relay, I'd take a
wild guess and say get a system/fuel relay and install it.

You are lucky that at this time, I have just finished finding the
cause of my system fuse (25A under hood) blowing. Caused the same no
start condition you describe. That means the info form the
troubleshootiung I have done is fresh in my mind.

If you can use a test light or VoltOhmMeter, there is one test before
replacing the relay.

If you take the knee bolster from under the passenger side dash, you
will see some wires that drape accross the bottom of the glove box.
The set you are looking for is three wires, a thick red with yellow
stripe, a red wire and a red with black stripe. This set comes out of
the top of the passenger side foot well into a white connector.
Separate this connector and check for 12 volts to ground with the
ignition switch on from the red with black stripe wire that comes from
the left side of the car. If there is 12 volts,the relay is most
likely bad. If no power, the ignition switch has a problem.

The relay is a white plastic box clipped or laying against the
firewall. This rectangular box about one by two by two inches controls
the fuel pumps and injectors. They have a habit of failing at the
worst time.

Duane
Click to expand...

My 240 is back up and running again.
The fuel pump relay had burned.
It was replaced,
but now,
While I was looking for the fuel pump relay, I saw a blue plastic case wich
I thought was the relay I was looking for so I took It out, then after I
put it back in, the electric locks won't work and when I turn on the radio
the open door bell signal goes on.
I can't figure out what went wrong, although I did open the plastic case, I
must have damaged it.
Any ideas?
 
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