1986 740 GLE Ignition Cold Weather

  • Thread starter Thread starter Tom Hemp
  • Start date Start date
T

Tom Hemp

In cold weather now it takes about 10 to 15 seconds when I turn the ignition
key to ON for the instrument panel gauge lights to all light up. Once this
happens then I can turn the key to START and the engine starts fine. If I
just turn the key to START on a cold morning then the engine will crank for
10 to 15 seconds till all the instrument panel gauges light up and then the
engine starts immediately. Does anyone know what is causing this slow start
up with power I assume to the electrical system(relay?).

Thanks, Tom
 
Tom said:
In cold weather now it takes about 10 to 15 seconds when I turn the ignition
key to ON for the instrument panel gauge lights to all light up. Once this
happens then I can turn the key to START and the engine starts fine. If I
just turn the key to START on a cold morning then the engine will crank for
10 to 15 seconds till all the instrument panel gauges light up and then the
engine starts immediately. Does anyone know what is causing this slow start
up with power I assume to the electrical system(relay?).

Thanks, Tom
Click to expand...


It's gotta be an electrical problem, try wiggling the ignition switch,
they've been known to go bad occasionally.
 
Tom Hemp said:
In cold weather now it takes about 10 to 15 seconds when I turn the
ignition key to ON for the instrument panel gauge lights to all light up.
Once this happens then I can turn the key to START and the engine starts
fine. If I just turn the key to START on a cold morning then the engine
will crank for 10 to 15 seconds till all the instrument panel gauges light
up and then the engine starts immediately. Does anyone know what is
causing this slow start up with power I assume to the electrical
system(relay?).

Thanks, Tom
Click to expand...
That's an excellent description of the symptoms I got when my '85 765T
ignition switch was failing. It got worse over a period of a couple months
until I got up the energy to change it. When warm it worked reliably. (You
could pre-warm the switch with a hair dryer, I suppose, to confirm that is
the problem. But I think it's a safe bet.)

The switch is easy to replace (up to an hour, if you work as slowly as I do,
but nothing frustrating) and is available aftermarket for under $100 US from
several sources - I went to IPD at www.ipdusa.com Only the electrical part
is replaced; you keep the lock part in place. IIRC a Phillips screwdriver
does it all.

Mike
 
James Sweet said:
It's gotta be an electrical problem, try wiggling the ignition switch,
they've been known to go bad occasionally.
Click to expand...

That's my first guess as well based on teh smptoms, but if it doesn't
work...

....disconnect, clean, and reinstall the battery cables at both ends.

....Check the battery voltage before ignition is turned on, after it is
turned on, while it is cranking, and after it starts.

.....remove, clean and replace the fuses. A piece of scotchbrite works
well. Clean the fuses AND the tabs where they connect in teh fuse box.


__ __
Randy & \ \/ /alerie's
\__/olvos
'90 245 Estate - '93 965 Estate
"Shelby" & "Kate"
 
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