1987 740 Fuel Sender Unit Out -- Problems (pics)

  • Thread starter Thread starter Jamie
  • Start date Start date
J

Jamie

1987 740 was doing the classic "right turn and stall". It never died,
just stalled until I got straight then picked back up. Always at 1/4
tank gas or less.

So I pull the sender unit out the tank expecting a hole or slice in
the short tube. Here are the problems I have:

1- There is no problem with the short tube. I can plug one end, blow
and it resists. It's sealed. Only thing I can think of was the
connections on an end were loose?

2- Haynes says "disconnect electrical connection." There was no
"disconnect". I tried "unplugging" but I think I brought wires. That
or they were already broke. My disconnect was cut the wires 6" away
from the unit. I need the wiring scheme to re-solder the 2 brown and 1
black wire back to the connector.

3- On the sliding ball lever, there is a metal slider that rubs a
metal plate as the ball rises. There is some blackening on this plate.
Can something under gasoline short? My fuel gauge worked fine.

4- Black sock filter looked OK. A little brittle near the cap
connector. I'll replace it. Cone filter looked OK.

So, not sure what was causing my stall. Other symptom has been while
going slow and gently accelerating, the engine felt "held back". Very
slightly, like it was 90% and barely noticeable. It just made you want
to mash the gas to see. When I mashed the gas it jumped in high RPM
and did fine. At highway speeds it seems fine, just slow cruising if
you can imagine an EKG heart monitor line where lets say 35 mph should
be a flat, steady line my line would be steady with subtle dips. ???

HEre are some pics:

http://www.flickr.com/photo_zoom.gne?id=439142590&size=o

http://www.flickr.com/photo_zoom.gne?id=439142584&size=o

http://www.flickr.com/photo_zoom.gne?id=439142568&size=o

http://www.flickr.com/photo_zoom.gne?id=439142552&size=o

http://www.flickr.com/photo_zoom.gne?id=439142540&size=o

Jamie
 
1987 740 was doing the classic "right turn and stall". It never died,
just stalled until I got straight then picked back up. Always at 1/4
tank gas or less.

So I pull the sender unit out the tank expecting a hole or slice in
the short tube. Here are the problems I have:

1- There is no problem with the short tube. I can plug one end, blow
and it resists. It's sealed. Only thing I can think of was the
connections on an end were loose?

2- Haynes says "disconnect electrical connection." There was no
"disconnect". I tried "unplugging" but I think I brought wires. That
or they were already broke. My disconnect was cut the wires 6" away
from the unit. I need the wiring scheme to re-solder the 2 brown and 1
black wire back to the connector.

3- On the sliding ball lever, there is a metal slider that rubs a
metal plate as the ball rises. There is some blackening on this plate.
Can something under gasoline short? My fuel gauge worked fine.

4- Black sock filter looked OK. A little brittle near the cap
connector. I'll replace it. Cone filter looked OK.

So, not sure what was causing my stall. Other symptom has been while
going slow and gently accelerating, the engine felt "held back". Very
slightly, like it was 90% and barely noticeable. It just made you want
to mash the gas to see. When I mashed the gas it jumped in high RPM
and did fine. At highway speeds it seems fine, just slow cruising if
you can imagine an EKG heart monitor line where lets say 35 mph should
be a flat, steady line my line would be steady with subtle dips. ???

HEre are some pics:

http://www.flickr.com/photo_zoom.gne?id=439142590&size=o

http://www.flickr.com/photo_zoom.gne?id=439142584&size=o

http://www.flickr.com/photo_zoom.gne?id=439142568&size=o

http://www.flickr.com/photo_zoom.gne?id=439142552&size=o

http://www.flickr.com/photo_zoom.gne?id=439142540&size=o

Jamie
Click to expand...

Scratch the request for a wiring diagram for the wiring connector on
the top plate, I am dense sometime.

Ohmmeter!


Top pin: Purple
Left pin: Brown
Right pin: Gray

Ground: Black
 
Scratch the request for a wiring diagram for the wiring connector on
the top plate, I am dense sometime.

Ohmmeter!

Top pin: Purple
Left pin: Brown
Right pin: Gray

Ground: Black
Click to expand...

maybe I am not so dense - the wires change colors at the connector.

DAG-NABBIT!

Diagram por favor!
 
maybe I am not so dense - the wires change colors at the connector.

DAG-NABBIT!

Diagram por favor!
Click to expand...

I am off to the parts yard tomorrow to "part with" $75. It was hard
soldering the wires together without melting plastic. Otherwise, I
might convert my 740 GLE to a turbo, and blast my derriere to the moon
if I cause a spark in that gas tank.

jb
 
The electrical connector is inside the trunk of the car behind the black
plastic panel on the left side under the carpet. I just pulled my sender
assembly a couple weeks ago and need to do it again now that I have a
new pickup sock. You unplug the connector, pop the rubber bushing
through the hole in the frame and feed the rest of the cable through.
 
The electrical connector is inside the trunk of the car behind the black
plastic panel on the left side under the carpet. I just pulled my sender
assembly a couple weeks ago and need to do it again now that I have a
new pickup sock. You unplug the connector, pop the rubber bushing
through the hole in the frame and feed the rest of the cable through.
Click to expand...

Thanks James. Would you mind calling Haynes and ask them to publish
your phone number in the section titled, "disconnecting the electrical
connector?"
That was one time that Haynes was VERY weak. I got under the car and
tried to trace the wire, but was not able. What I cut will be easy to
re-solder - that's outside the sender. What broke was when I
interpreted "disconnect the electrical connector" as pull the
connector off of the sending unit. It does not come off the sending
unit. Wait, it does - but it leaves broken wires behind inside. LOL
 
Thanks James. Would you mind calling Haynes and ask them to publish
your phone number in the section titled, "disconnecting the electrical
connector?"
That was one time that Haynes was VERY weak. I got under the car and
tried to trace the wire, but was not able. What I cut will be easy to
re-solder - that's outside the sender. What broke was when I
interpreted "disconnect the electrical connector" as pull the
connector off of the sending unit. It does not come off the sending
unit. Wait, it does - but it leaves broken wires behind inside. LOL
Click to expand...

LOL my phone would be ringing off the hook.

Yeah you might consider picking up a new sending unit if there's a
wrecker near you. You'll get a spare pre-pump that way too.
 
LOL my phone would be ringing off the hook.

Yeah you might consider picking up a new sending unit if there's a
wrecker near you. You'll get a spare pre-pump that way too.
Click to expand...

Thanks I will. I can get a 1988 model that doesn't fit my 1987 car for
only $35 at one place, or $75 gets me one that fits my car at another
place.
Hmmmmmm?

Decisions.

I called FCP Groton today, they swore a 1987 ONLY fits a 1987. Darn.
 
Jamie said:
Thanks I will. I can get a 1988 model that doesn't fit my 1987 car for
only $35 at one place, or $75 gets me one that fits my car at another
place.
Hmmmmmm?

Decisions.

I called FCP Groton today, they swore a 1987 ONLY fits a 1987. Darn.
Click to expand...


Ouch! I think they're only 8 bucks here, the yard I go to has a pair of
'89s and a '90, I didn't realize those parts changed at all through the
years aside from perhaps the electrical connector.
 
Ouch! I think they're only 8 bucks here, the yard I go to has a pair of
'89s and a '90, I didn't realize those parts changed at all through the
years aside from perhaps the electrical connector.
Click to expand...

$8 for the entire in-tank sending unit, in-tank pump and filter?

That's a good price!
 
Ouch! I think they're only 8 bucks here, the yard I go to has a pair of
'89s and a '90, I didn't realize those parts changed at all through the
years aside from perhaps the electrical connector.
Click to expand...

I think 85 and 87 were unique years, with 88-92 being next. FCP says
the ones for a 240 are one size fits all.
 
$8 for the entire in-tank sending unit, in-tank pump and filter?

That's a good price!
Click to expand...



Yeah, I've been spoiled by them, even a transmission is only 50 bucks
for a manual and 75 for an auto, but you have to pull everything
yourself and half the time the cars are over a 4" deep lake in the mud.
 
Yes, we had a storm last night and I was tossing tires to make
stepping stones across water to get to the car.

After 70 miles driving to the parts yard WITH the 1987 Fuel Sender,
CLOSED. Damn. So, backtracked 40 miles to other U-Pull-it yard for
other parts. Instead of paying $75 for 1987 Fuel Sender at closed
place, I paid $35 for a 1988 and will just cut the snap wire connector
and splice. That is the only thing that looks different.

Another $25 and I got 2 door handles ($5 each), a free dist. cap, a
master cylinder for $15.

$60 total. Not too bad.

Jamie
 
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