1987 760 sedan with a b230f engine questions

  • Thread starter Thread starter Gilbert
  • Start date Start date
G

Gilbert

I got this car, the title says it is a turbo model, and it seems that
the engine was replaced with a non turbo one.
I don't know if the car worked after the change and I don't know if
they replaced the computer and anything else that should be changed
with the engine swap.
The little bit that I have been able to drive the car tells me that
the engine , tranny, brakes, steering, etc is ok.
The problem is that I connect the battery and that the engine starts
fine and 30 seconds after driving it starts to shut down after that it
only idles fine but when I try to give it gas it bogs down
It seems that in those first 30 sec it is working in "limp home" mode.
How can I set it that way to drive it home?
The Haynes manual has me more confused. Is there any good manual
online for this car?
Any help will be apreciated
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...d=1,1&item=4576652025&sspagename=STRK:MEWN:IT
 
Gilbert said:
I got this car, the title says it is a turbo model, and it seems that
the engine was replaced with a non turbo one.
I don't know if the car worked after the change and I don't know if
they replaced the computer and anything else that should be changed
with the engine swap.
The little bit that I have been able to drive the car tells me that
the engine , tranny, brakes, steering, etc is ok.
The problem is that I connect the battery and that the engine starts
fine and 30 seconds after driving it starts to shut down after that it
only idles fine but when I try to give it gas it bogs down
It seems that in those first 30 sec it is working in "limp home" mode.
How can I set it that way to drive it home?
The Haynes manual has me more confused. Is there any good manual
online for this car?
Any help will be apreciated
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...d=1,1&item=4576652025&sspagename=STRK:MEWN:IT
Click to expand...

If it is going into limp mode then the computer is reading a fault
code (assuming that it is working and is the correct computer). Check
(and wiggle) all fuses, then use the OBD socket and read the fault
code from socket 2 (Fuel Injection) and then socket 6 (ignition
system).
-Place test lead into socket
-Turn on ignition
-Press test button for more than 1 second but less than 3 seconds
-read the binary flashes to read the code:
*-------***-------*
would be code 1-3-1
-Again, press test button for more than 1 second but less than 3
seconds. WHne the first code appears again there are no more stored
codes.

To erase codes:
-First read all codes
-Place lead in socket
-Turn on ignition
-Press test button for at least five seconds and release
-Light should bo on for 3-4 seconds
-Press test button for at least five seconds and light should go out.
-Check for stored code again as outlined above to verify a 1-1-1 codes
(no faults)

Be aware that not all faults will cause a "check engine" light to
illuminate.

Also be aware that it can be difficult to isolate faults (see my
recent thread(s) on my AMM problems.

Good luck~
__ __
Randy & \ \/ /alerie's
\__/olvos
'90 245 Estate - '93 965 Estate
"Shelby" & "Kate"
 
Um, *I* can see the turbo housing and plumbing under the hood, no? You
*sure* this isn't the B230FT motor still??

K.

Sorry, no ideas about the performance issue(s).....
 
I got this car, the title says it is a turbo model, and it seems that
the engine was replaced with a non turbo one.
I don't know if the car worked after the change and I don't know if
they replaced the computer and anything else that should be changed
with the engine swap.
Click to expand...

The eBay link that you provided shows a turbo. The symptoms that you
describe are consistent with a blown turbo.

Here's a photo of the engine compartment alone (from the eBay ad):
http://www.theoriginalusedcarfactory.com/VOLVO/dsc0002.jpg

The turbo housing and tubing is clearly visible on the left.

AC
 
That is the problem: the title. intercooler and air filter are the
original from the car a turbo model. And no there is no turbo , it has
a straight regular exhaust manifold. the number stamped in the engine
is b230f (no t at the end)
The air filter is connected directly to the intercooler with one of
those hoses like a vacuum cleaner
 
Randy G. said:
If it is going into limp mode then the computer is reading a fault
code (assuming that it is working and is the correct computer). Check
(and wiggle) all fuses, then use the OBD socket and read the fault
code from socket 2 (Fuel Injection) and then socket 6 (ignition
system).
-Place test lead into socket
Click to expand...
Unless it is different from our '85 it has no test socket and no provision
for reading codes.

Mike
 
K Bourke said:
Um, *I* can see the turbo housing and plumbing under the hood, no? You
*sure* this isn't the B230FT motor still??

K.

Sorry, no ideas about the performance issue(s).....
Click to expand...
It appears the turbo has been removed; the duct from the AMM goes right to
the intercooler. The rest of it looks like a turbo model, though. I bet the
engine is still an FT and the ECU is the original.

Mike
 
Gilbert said:
That is the problem: the title. intercooler and air filter are the
original from the car a turbo model. And no there is no turbo , it has
a straight regular exhaust manifold. the number stamped in the engine
is b230f (no t at the end)
The air filter is connected directly to the intercooler with one of
those hoses like a vacuum cleaner
Click to expand...

Okay - the symptoms are fairly consistent with a large air leak between the
AMM and the throttle body. (I don't know why it would work for 30 seconds -
ours sure doesn't under those conditions.) You can remove the duct from the
AMM (so it is still connected to the intercooler) and try blowing into it.
You should feel a lot of backpressure... very little leakage. If it leaks
find out where. Also wash that silly black ring off your face :-) If you
don't feel a lot of leakage I fear the AMM may be bad. Wrecking yards are
the most affordable source of that.

Disconnecting the AMM should put it in limp-home mode.

Mike
 
Gilbert said:
I got this car, the title says it is a turbo model, and it seems that
the engine was replaced with a non turbo one.
I don't know if the car worked after the change and I don't know if
they replaced the computer and anything else that should be changed
with the engine swap.
The little bit that I have been able to drive the car tells me that
the engine , tranny, brakes, steering, etc is ok.
The problem is that I connect the battery and that the engine starts
fine and 30 seconds after driving it starts to shut down after that it
only idles fine but when I try to give it gas it bogs down
It seems that in those first 30 sec it is working in "limp home" mode.
How can I set it that way to drive it home?
The Haynes manual has me more confused. Is there any good manual
online for this car?
Any help will be apreciated
Click to expand...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...d=1,1&item=4576652025&sspagename=STRK:MEWN:IT


Looks like a poorly done hack to remove the turbo, the intercooler is still
in place. You should check the engine to find out if it's the turbo motor or
not, if it is slap a turbo in there, makes the car driveable, without it a
760 is a bit of a dog.
 
Okay - the symptoms are fairly consistent with a large air leak between the
AMM and the throttle body. (I don't know why it would work for 30 seconds -
ours sure doesn't under those conditions.) You can remove the duct from the
AMM (so it is still connected to the intercooler) and try blowing into it.
You should feel a lot of backpressure... very little leakage. If it leaks
find out where. Also wash that silly black ring off your face :-) If you
don't feel a lot of leakage I fear the AMM may be bad. Wrecking yards are
the most affordable source of that.

Disconnecting the AMM should put it in limp-home mode.

Mike
Click to expand...
Looking closely at the photo it seems as if the inlet hose to the
intercooler is not connected.

According to the seller's "check" this is a dual overhead cam 5 cylinder
turbo. The interior may be redyed burgundy but the "autocheck" outfit
people are maroons. Well, for $400 I guess you get what you pay for. If
the underbody stuff is anything like the tires, the car needs an awful
lot of work. It could still be a flood damaged car even though an
insurance loss wasn't reported.

Bob
 
That was my first work: coonect that hose, and the problem continues
even if I disconnect the AMM. Somewhere I read that with the AMM
disconnected it should work in "limp mode"
I got it much less than the price I bid for , I could not buy a
bycicle for that price. the little bit that works the mechanical seems
to be ok
There are at least two junkyards where I could go and rip out any part
I need for the price of a song.

I don't think I have to trash the car because a computer problem,
or does it has Windows installed in the computer?
 
The engine is a b30f (not 230ft)
Is there any web info about somebody swapping engines
converting a non turbo to turbo?
That will give me an idea whgat to check.
 
According to the seller's "check" this is a dual overhead cam 5 cylinder
turbo. T
Click to expand...

Didn't know that Volvo ever sold that combination in the US.

AC
 
The Volvo 760 introduced in 1982 was a completely new model, was
produced with a 4 cyl Turbo, with a V6 engine, and finally 6 cyl Turbo
Diesel
The Volvo 740 series was introduced in 1984 to North America, 2 years
after the Volvo 760 started on the market. The Volvo 740 is always
equipped with a 4 cylinder engine, either normally aspirated (B230F)
or Turbocharged (B230FT). The Volvo 760 was available with a V6 or 4
cylinder Turbocharged only. Aside from the engine and cosmetic
differences, the Volvo 740 and 760 are similar cars and shares the
same body, suspension, brakes and more.
According to Volvo ads it is more
aerodynamic than a Porshe 928, has better automatic
climate control system than a Cadillac Seville,
outhandles a Jaguar, etc...

Now I know I have to find the computer and wiring harness from a
740gle
 
Looking closely at the photo it seems as if the inlet hose to the
intercooler is not connected.

According to the seller's "check" this is a dual overhead cam 5 cylinder
turbo. The interior may be redyed burgundy but the "autocheck" outfit
people are maroons. Well, for $400 I guess you get what you pay for. If
the underbody stuff is anything like the tires, the car needs an awful
lot of work. It could still be a flood damaged car even though an
insurance loss wasn't reported.

Bob
Click to expand...


That's not correct, it's a 4 cylinder single overhead cam engine, it's what
all the 700 series turbos had. My advice is to find a turbo motor from a
junkyard and drop that in, it's much easier than trying to swap all the
other bits around and the car will work as it was intended to.
 
James Sweet said:
That's not correct, it's a 4 cylinder single overhead cam engine, it's
what
all the 700 series turbos had. My advice is to find a turbo motor from a
junkyard and drop that in, it's much easier than trying to swap all the
other bits around and the car will work as it was intended to.
Click to expand...
I know it sounds like a huge amount of work, but in the 760 it really isn't.
There is plenty of room to work, and the engine/tranny comes out with little
drama. You should know the turbo ducts are shockingly expensive; the inlet
duct is about $200 from Volvo! It also is hard to find in decent condition
in a wrecking yard; the bottom turns to mush where the oil collects at the
lip of the turbo.

If you find one from an '88 or later, also buy the engine harness. The '87
has the notorious disintegrating insulation unless it has also been changed.
The harness comes out easily with the engine, too. Just follow the ends to
the large connectors near the battery and the A/C drier.

Mike
 
Gilbert said:
That was my first work: coonect that hose, and the problem continues
even if I disconnect the AMM. Somewhere I read that with the AMM
disconnected it should work in "limp mode"
I got it much less than the price I bid for , I could not buy a
bycicle for that price. the little bit that works the mechanical seems
to be ok
There are at least two junkyards where I could go and rip out any part
I need for the price of a song.

I don't think I have to trash the car because a computer problem,
or does it has Windows installed in the computer?
Click to expand...
The computers are plenty reliable, assuming yours wasn't wet. (It's by the
passenger's right foot, on the side.) If it has the turbo ECU I don't know
what issues there are in running with a non-turbo engine.

I really like James' idea of putting a turbo engine back in; it puts so many
things right again. The engines are pretty bulletproof (mine has never had
the head or either manifold off in 230K+ miles and 20 years), so if you find
a wreck that looks like body damage or interior condition put it in the bone
yard you're in business. If you find one with a serviceable engine harness
you can remove the engine and harness intact with the tranny, and drop a new
one in within a single day... even for a real slowpoke like me. (You may
have noticed the hood will even open straight up!) Nobody makes cars that
easy to work on any more.

Mike
 
I know it sounds like a huge amount of work, but in the 760 it really isn't.
There is plenty of room to work, and the engine/tranny comes out with little
drama. You should know the turbo ducts are shockingly expensive; the inlet
duct is about $200 from Volvo! It also is hard to find in decent condition
in a wrecking yard; the bottom turns to mush where the oil collects at the
lip of the turbo.

If you find one from an '88 or later, also buy the engine harness. The '87
has the notorious disintegrating insulation unless it has also been changed.
The harness comes out easily with the engine, too. Just follow the ends to
the large connectors near the battery and the A/C drier.

Mike
Click to expand...
Thanks Mike
The problem for me is that I don't have a place to do the engine
replacement, but I can do the computer/wiring/sensors work in the
driveway.
reading a little about Volvos I found that the 760 was 6 cylinder or 4
with the turbo and the 740 was 4cylinder without turbo.
I will get the computer/wiring/AMM/Hell sensor/etc from a 740 1988
and replace it.
all the insulation from the wiring in the engine bay is disolving so I
have to replace it anyway if I change the engine or not.
Thanks
Gilbert
 
Thanks Mike
The problem for me is that I don't have a place to do the engine
replacement, but I can do the computer/wiring/sensors work in the
driveway.
reading a little about Volvos I found that the 760 was 6 cylinder or 4
with the turbo and the 740 was 4cylinder without turbo.
I will get the computer/wiring/AMM/Hell sensor/etc from a 740 1988
and replace it.
all the insulation from the wiring in the engine bay is disolving so I
have to replace it anyway if I change the engine or not.
Thanks
Gilbert
Click to expand...

740s were available with a turbo as well, they just didn't have all the
interior trimmings of the 760 and not as many options were standard.
 
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