1987 Volvo 740 GLE (Part II)

Because my first post got rather long, I started a new post. I am new
to Groups, so if there is a forum etiquette please let me know.

I have the Gold Volvo 740 GLE, 1987 I bought last week for $500. My
first post is here:
http://groups.google.com/group/alt.autos.volvo/browse_frm/thread/66cc7dd15e18c1a2?hl=en

Here is where I am now, as I had just cleaned the Breather Box and had
the car idle VERY poorly and die out. I purchased an O-ring for the
Breather Box for 38 cents at the local mech. shop. This completed my
parts for the B-Box. Before testing this, I noticed during the
installation a wire unclipped from somewhere. I discovered I knocked
this off, and it bolted to the engine block, just above the B-Box. It
appeared to be part of the engine wire harness. Well, I had broken a
clip from the snap on adapter, so it was damaged. I unbolted the bolt
that secured what looked like a washer with two electrical prongs. I
had to solder the adapter with one prong still in it to the ring with
the other prong on it. After soldering the this I was able to bolt it
back onto the engine and I started the car.

Fired right up, idles nicely, sounds GREAT! I let the car run 2-3
minutes and had no oil leaking. I was happy, but a test drive set the
oil to leaking again, so I fear I was too late in cleaning the breather
box. The prior owner let it go too long.

So, I am confident I cleaned the B-Box well, and will probably replace
it down the road to be sure. I'll change the seals knowing I think I
reduced pressure. What bothers me now are the exposed wires and
possibly bad connections in the wiring harness.

I read where I guy named Dave sells these for about $200. Any thoughts
on where to get a harness for a good price and exactly how much work is
involved swapping it out?

thanks!
jamie

 

Replace the harness ASAP I lost one Volvo due to a car fire caused by a bad
harness. I knew that it was rotting but didn't get around to fixing it in
time.



Regards,

Boris Mohar

Got Knock? - see:
Viatrack Printed Circuit Designs (among other things) http://www.viatrack.ca

void _-void-_ in the obvious place

 

It's Dave Barton, and I've bought one from him before, it was exactly as
described and fixed the problems I was having with the '86 245. Of
course 2 weeks later I found a harness in near perfect condition for $10
at the local junkyard but that's just how it goes.

Replacing it isn't too bad of a job, give yourself at least a few hours
the first time though. The hardest part is usually removing the crusty
old harness which will have become hard as a rock in places you need to
flex it to get it off the engine. Take good notes or better yet, lots of
digital photos so you remember exactly how to route everything.

 

Thanks! I think I'll take good notes and lots of pictures. I'll have to
see how bad removing the intake manifold is. Never did that and so I'm
mainly not sure about the seals. Do I need to just swap the gasket, use
a liquid sealer, etc.?

About the harness, do the one's at the junk yard need to be removed
from the car or are they already pulled. Dave seems to have good stuff
and $200 isn't so bad if it's new. I'd rather pay $10, but want
something I know is good.

thanks!

 

Has anyone dealt with or heard about this guy? I don't have a name yet,
but he is on Craigslist and eBay. He sells harnesses. Here are two
examples:

http://miami.craigslist.org/pts/129325996.html

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8038146075&fromMakeTrack=true

 

Removing the manifold is pretty easy, but there's a few tricks. Pull the
fuel rail and injectors as an assembly and push it aside rather than
trying to disconnect the high pressure fuel lines. The gasket comes
right off once you remove all the bolts, don't forget the bracket
underneath with the idle speed motor on it. You'll want a new gasket on
hand before you start, you shouldn't need any sort of sealant, but make
sure you remove all of the old gasket from the head and manifold,
sometimes they cooperate, sometimes they tear in half and stick
tenaciously to both parts.

Completely depends on the yard, if you find a place that has them for
$10 expect to bring your own tools and pull it yourself, this is a
no-frills yard that I go to but it's worth it to me to save $. As I said
though, it's very hit or miss, it was a complete fluke that they
happened to have a recently replaced harness in an old car there, and
almost miraculous that I got to it before some lazy prick cut it up to
remove some other part. In your case I would buy one from Dave, but if
you find a good one in a yard it's worth grabbing that too.

 

Thanks! Great information.