1989 Volvo 240, 245 low power, low mpg - need advice

  • Thread starter Thread starter L.J. :)
  • Start date Start date
L

L.J. :)

We need some advise. We have an '89 Volvo 240 with a B230F engine,
non-turbo, non-carburated. So far we have cleaned the air filter,
intake tubes, butterfly valve and manifold. We have replaced the mass
air meter, catalytic converter and oxygen sensor. We have checked the
temp sensor and the timing. The car now runs, idles, but lacks power.
Our gas mileage as measured is 14-15 mpg as measured from Oct-Dec. We
have not yet done a fuel pressure check, fuel injector check/cleaning.
It has been recommended to us by Volvo mechanics not to hope for much
improvement in mileage through shimming the valves (OHC). We are still
shooting for 22mpg as this is what they reportedly get. Any words of
wisdom for the most improvement in efficiency for the least amount of
parts and labor? Thanks LJ :)
 
@q2g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:

Flame trap replace, check tubes connected to it as well (especially small
one that goes to the intake manifold)...

Replace spark plugs, distributor cap, etc...

Throttle body clean, make sure the idle switch is working...

Constant idle speed motor is also easy to clean...

Use good gasoline...

You could always do a search on Volvo 240 forums for "Seafoam", or a
Google search, and give that a try... I have yet to try it, so I don't
know if it is as good as most people say it is.

I get 16-18 city and 24-26 highway, so mine is not that great either, but
then again I drive like a maniac in NYC which requires some pedal to the
medal so to speak.
 
L.J. :) said:
We need some advise. We have an '89 Volvo 240 with a B230F engine,
non-turbo, non-carburated. So far we have cleaned the air filter,
intake tubes, butterfly valve and manifold. We have replaced the mass
air meter, catalytic converter and oxygen sensor. We have checked the
temp sensor and the timing. The car now runs, idles, but lacks power.
Our gas mileage as measured is 14-15 mpg as measured from Oct-Dec. We
have not yet done a fuel pressure check, fuel injector check/cleaning.
It has been recommended to us by Volvo mechanics not to hope for much
improvement in mileage through shimming the valves (OHC). We are still
shooting for 22mpg as this is what they reportedly get. Any words of
wisdom for the most improvement in efficiency for the least amount of
parts and labor? Thanks LJ :)
Click to expand...

Sounds to me like it's not getting enough fuel. Replace the fuel
filter and see if that helps. Most common problem for an engine that
idles great but won't drive well. Does the engine run really hot when
you are putting it under a lot of load? If so, that's a pretty good
indicator of a very lean fuel mixture caused by insufficient fuel
pressure.
 
I was having the same problem with my 88 240... engine idled great, but
was getting really poor mileage. The fuel filter was rusted to hell and
the valve timing was off. Once the filter was replaced and the valve
timing adjusted, my fuel consumption improved greatly and is now up
near that 22 mpg mark. I also topped off my air pressure in my tires
which was low.

Good luck,
cton.
 
LJ :) here again to thank YourName and Zoltamat... and cton for
responding. '89 Volvo 245, M47, 125K miles, B230F, non turbo.
New Cat converter. O2 sensor.

The flame trap and 3 tubes were cleaned, it's just that i forgot to
mention them. Spark plugs cleaned and gapped and distributor cap
cleaned with a flat file tip until those 4 points were shiny. Center
point clean and the spring seems about right.

The constant idle speed motor rebuild is a GOOD idea, and i think i
will undertake that, next nice day weatherwise.

The fuel filter idea i overlooked under the impression that, if
clogged, it might cause stalling, or misfiring on long uphills or
something noticeable in an acute way. It has not occurred to me that
too much fuel consumption could result from not enough fuel
flowthrough.
So, on the advice of volvo owners who might know more than me, i will
undertake that, too, on the next nice weather day.

Timing was done. 'even went to the depth of the timing belt pulleys
and their scribe marks, thinking that the rubber junction in the main
pulley might have deteriorated causing the front cover timing marks to
be inaccurate. 'Got 12 degrees(before tdc) (static) and all scribe
marks and keys aligned with respect to one another at TDC. Plus there
is no pinging, or overheat condition, nor are the spark plugs white or
hot.

Thanks again for the ideas. Keep 'em coming LJ :)
 
L.J. :) said:
LJ :) here again to thank YourName and Zoltamat... and cton for
responding. '89 Volvo 245, M47, 125K miles, B230F, non turbo.
New Cat converter. O2 sensor.

The flame trap and 3 tubes were cleaned, it's just that i forgot to
mention them. Spark plugs cleaned and gapped and distributor cap
cleaned with a flat file tip until those 4 points were shiny. Center
point clean and the spring seems about right.

The constant idle speed motor rebuild is a GOOD idea, and i think i
will undertake that, next nice day weatherwise.

The fuel filter idea i overlooked under the impression that, if
clogged, it might cause stalling, or misfiring on long uphills or
something noticeable in an acute way. It has not occurred to me that
too much fuel consumption could result from not enough fuel
flowthrough.
So, on the advice of volvo owners who might know more than me, i will
undertake that, too, on the next nice weather day.

Timing was done. 'even went to the depth of the timing belt pulleys
and their scribe marks, thinking that the rubber junction in the main
pulley might have deteriorated causing the front cover timing marks to
be inaccurate. 'Got 12 degrees(before tdc) (static) and all scribe
marks and keys aligned with respect to one another at TDC. Plus there
is no pinging, or overheat condition, nor are the spark plugs white or
hot.

Thanks again for the ideas. Keep 'em coming LJ :)
Click to expand...


I don't see air mass meter in that list, that's one of the most common
causes of your symptom. You might also check the wiring to and the
sensor that measures coolant temp for the ECU, it's separate from the
one that goes to the guage.
 
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