1990 740GL bent spindle?

  • Thread starter Thread starter MasterBlaster
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MasterBlaster

I recently acquired the car, and found it has a gentle but constant pull
to the left while driving, that wasn't particularly noticeable during the
giddy excitement or the initial test drive. I checked for the usual things;
uneven tire pressures, conical tire wear, bent control arms / strut rods,
or worn balljoints, and have narrowed it down to the spindles themselves.

Using a highly-scientific method (turning the wheels to the side so I can see,
and trying to slide a roll of electrical tape between the strut body and the lip
of the stock 15" steel rims), I've decided that one of them has been bent,
likely from hitting a curb in the snow. But which one? Either the right side
was hit at the top, or the left side at the bottom (most likely), upsetting the
camber settings and creating the pull. The wheels all spin straight, so if any
of them were also bent, they've already been replaced.

Anyone here have a similar car with stock steel rims that could check theirs
and see if either of my measurements is somewhat "normal"? It would help
to know which side is bad before I go looking for replacement parts.

FYI:
The roll of tape is 19mm thick.
Can't fit it in on the right side. Eyeball says the gap is about 2mm too narrow.
Left side goes in with 2-3mm clearance.
 
I recently acquired the car, and found it has a gentle but constant pull
to the left while driving, that wasn't particularly noticeable during the
giddy excitement or the initial test drive. I checked for the usual things;
uneven tire pressures, conical tire wear, bent control arms / strut rods,
or worn balljoints, and have narrowed it down to the spindles themselves.

Using a highly-scientific method (turning the wheels to the side so I cansee,
and trying to slide a roll of electrical tape between the strut body and the lip
of the stock 15" steel rims), I've decided that one of them has been bent,
likely from hitting a curb in the snow. But which one? Either the right side
was hit at the top, or the left side at the bottom (most likely), upsetting the
camber settings and creating the pull. The wheels all spin straight, so if any
of them were also bent, they've already been replaced.

Anyone here have a similar car with stock steel rims that could check theirs
and see if either of my measurements is somewhat "normal"? It would help
to know which side is bad before I go looking for replacement parts.

FYI:
The roll of tape is 19mm thick.
Can't fit it in on the right side. Eyeball says the gap is about 2mm too narrow.
Left side goes in with 2-3mm clearance.

I had a pull to the left and a highly scientific method of changing
tires from right to left determined a tire had a broken belt. It
pulled to the right, when tires were switched. So I got new tires.
 
MasterBlaster said:
I recently acquired the car, and found it has a gentle but constant pull
to the left while driving, that wasn't particularly noticeable during the
giddy excitement or the initial test drive. I checked for the usual things;
uneven tire pressures, conical tire wear, bent control arms / strut rods,
or worn balljoints, and have narrowed it down to the spindles themselves.

Using a highly-scientific method (turning the wheels to the side so I can see,
and trying to slide a roll of electrical tape between the strut body and the lip
of the stock 15" steel rims), I've decided that one of them has been bent,
likely from hitting a curb in the snow. But which one? Either the right side
was hit at the top, or the left side at the bottom (most likely), upsetting the
camber settings and creating the pull. The wheels all spin straight, so if any
of them were also bent, they've already been replaced.

Anyone here have a similar car with stock steel rims that could check theirs
and see if either of my measurements is somewhat "normal"? It would help
to know which side is bad before I go looking for replacement parts.

FYI:
The roll of tape is 19mm thick.
Can't fit it in on the right side. Eyeball says the gap is about 2mm too narrow.
Left side goes in with 2-3mm clearance.


I've seen the strut tubes get bent from hitting a curb. I suggest taking
the car to an alignment shop and have them check it out. It's pretty
hard to measure yourself, there isn't much nearby that makes a precise
enough reference.
 
:

I had a pull to the left and a highly scientific method of changing
tires from right to left determined a tire had a broken belt. It
pulled to the right, when tires were switched. So I got new tires.

Switched the fronts side-to-side last night. No change, so I put them back.
 
James said:
I've seen the strut tubes get bent from hitting a curb. I suggest taking
the car to an alignment shop and have them check it out. It's pretty
hard to measure yourself, there isn't much nearby that makes a precise
enough reference.

My 1995 940 shows slightly less that a 19mm roll of tape thickness
between rim and strut.

I'd say the relationship between strut and rim should be pretty fixed
and easy to check.

If its had a big enough wack to bend the stub axle at the base or the
strut tube, could have other problems too. In my (parents) first car I
hit a curb after swerving, buckled a wheel and bent a steering arm
(repaired by dealer). About 5 years later I was replacing shocks and
noticed the bottom swivel ball joint was bent aswell. But likley you
will take that from the donor if you replace the strut from a breakers.
 
Tony said:
My 1995 940 shows slightly less that a 19mm roll of tape thickness
between rim and strut.

I'd say the relationship between strut and rim should be pretty fixed
and easy to check.

If its had a big enough wack to bend the stub axle at the base or the
strut tube, could have other problems too. In my (parents) first car I
hit a curb after swerving, buckled a wheel and bent a steering arm
(repaired by dealer). About 5 years later I was replacing shocks and
noticed the bottom swivel ball joint was bent aswell. But likley you
will take that from the donor if you replace the strut from a breakers.


The strut tubes seem to be the weak spot on a 700/900, they tend to bend
before the other components, but when you get one from a salvage yard it
normally will have the other bits and pieces attached. Do make sure you
get one from the right year, they changed the hub design in '88 or '89
to use a larger spindle and nut.
 

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