1991 240DL Error Codes

Discussion in 'Volvo 240' started by Glenn and Janice, Aug 22, 2006.

  1. Good Day All,

    I did the test to get my error codes since the car is turnign over but
    not firing up. It will start for a few seconds if it has been sitting
    for awhile. Anyway my error codes and what the Volvo Code Retrieval
    page says is wrong.

    2 - 1 - 3 Throttle Switch Signal
    2 - 3 - 2 Lamda Adjustment
    1 - 1 - 3 Fuel Injectors

    I am assuming I need to repalce the Throttle Switch and put new Fuel
    Injectors in the car. Is it possible or recommended to use used ones
    from the auto salvage yard if they look good? Is there anything I
    should know before doing these 2 things. I know the Lamda adjustment is
    the 02 Sensor (correct) and I will replace that but that is not what is
    keeping my car from starting, so I been told.

    I also did a coil wire test by removing the coil wire from the
    distributor and turning the key and I saw very little spark very
    random. I read on another thread that this means I should replace the
    crank sensor. Is this correct?

    Lastly, where is the crank sensor and Throttle Switch? I have searched
    online and find a discribtion of what they are but no photos of where
    they are.

    Thanks again for all the advice. It means alot to us. Cheers
    Glenn and Janice, Aug 22, 2006
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  2. Glenn and Janice

    Duane Guest

    OK, now I feel a little dumb by not reading further down the listings since
    you have pulled the codes.

    I still recommend cleaning the grounds on the intake manifold and the
    switches and contacts from my other post. The ECU references those grounds
    as part of its self diagnostics as well as relying on them for component
    grounds. So if those grounds are bad, or the connections are bad,
    everything is screwed up.

    I had the same set of codes when I bought my 90. The sellers dumped it
    after the mechanic they used put over $1400 worth of parts at it and still
    could not get the codes to clear. Had to sell since they could not renew

    I cleaned the grounds and have not seen them since. See rational below.

    The ECU references engine signals based upon resistance and voltage flow.
    Voltage is affected by resistance. (Ohm's Law). So any extra resistance can
    really screw the system a lot.

    Also since the ECU can only store 3 codes, any that were set before you
    checked may have been wiped out. Pull the codes with a minute after
    clearing them and restarting. You may end up with one or two which helps
    narrow down the search.

    213 needs to be checked with a Ohm meter to be sure. It could be dirty and
    shorting to ground.
    Throttle switch is toward the firewall side of the furthest most left part
    of the intake manifold.

    232 The Lambda system is compensating at idle for a mixture imbalance caused
    113 faulty injectors.

    Is the mixture rich or lean? Pull a plug or two and see. Dark and wet,
    rich. White and dry, lean.

    The injectors are pulsed by the ECU via the grounds on the intake manifold.
    IF the injectors are not grounded properly, also through the same grounds,
    the injector will not fire properly or at all.

    Duane, Aug 22, 2006
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  3. Glenn and Janice

    Tim McNamara Guest

    I would advise against replacing things willy-nilly. It's quite
    possible that only one thing is wrong and that this has caused the
    others to trigger.
    Hmmm. I think I would start with the crank position sensor- partly
    because it's inexpensive! However, I would also counsel waiting for
    wiser heads than mine to weigh in on the discussion.


    If this gets the car running, then clear the codes and wait and see.
    Tim McNamara, Aug 22, 2006
  4. Duane - I did a test on the Fuel Pressure Regulator.and when I unlpug
    the thinner hose and start the car no gas comes out at all - When I
    unplug the thicker short hose, fuel streams steady and fast out of it
    so the fuel is not bypassing the FPR I think. I will replace it first
    tomorrow and go from there - I will also clean all the grounds and
    connectos to see if that helps also -

    Is the ECU located in the car at the feet of the passengers
    Glenn and Janice, Aug 22, 2006
  5. Duane - I did a test on the Fuel Pressure Regulator.and when I unlpug
    the thinner hose and start the car no gas comes out at all - When I
    unplug the thicker short hose, fuel streams steady and fast out of it
    so the fuel is not bypassing the FPR I think. I will replace it first
    tomorrow and go from there - I will also clean all the grounds and
    connectos to see if that helps also -

    Is the ECU located in the car at the feet of the passengers
    Glenn and Janice, Aug 22, 2006
  6. Glenn and Janice

    User Guest

    Check the O2 sensor output. Usually that cluster of codes means it's

    User, Aug 22, 2006
  7. The O2 Sensor wouldnt cause the car to not start - it would just make
    it run terrible if it was bad
    Glenn and Janice, Aug 22, 2006
  8. Glenn and Janice

    Duane Guest

    It appears the FPR is functioning and not leaking. Why replace it??
    Replace it only if leaking, it does not maintain pressure, or it does not
    react to vacuum changes. The first is not happening and the other two
    require testing.

    ECU needs to know engine temp and amount of air entering system to determine
    how long to pusle injectors to deliver a fuel-air mix that will ignite.
    Injectors have a fixed opening that will deliver a known volume of fuel at a
    given pressure. At idle, the ECU also adjusts air entering system via the
    air control valve based upon RPM info.

    The system will not pump fuel if the RPM signal is missing, so any fuel flow
    while cranking indicates the RPM sensor is functioning.

    O2 sensor comes online after about two minutes, sometimes longer, and is
    used only after the ECU stops compensating for a cold engine.

    A no start condition or poor running within two minutes of startup is not
    caused by the O2 sensor unless the ECU is faulty. And most ECU's are bullet
    proof unless tested incorrectly.

    A bad air or dirty air control valve can really screw with an engine. With
    a closed throttle plate the only way air can get to the engine is via that
    valve. If open poor running lean, if closed poor running rich.

    I strongly recommend the purchase of a Bentley manual to assit in this
    diagnoses. An investment of $40 could save many times that in parts not
    needed and time wasted.

    It has a section that guides the user through testing the ECU outputs to see
    if the varius critical components are reacting to output signals from the

    Duane, Aug 22, 2006
  9. Glenn and Janice

    KLB Guest

    From your following statement on the previous thread:
    I am curious and completely ignorant when it comes to mechanical issues but
    would like to know what the RPM sensor is(does it go by another name), where
    it is and if I have one on a 94 940 turbo (B230FT).
    KLB, Aug 22, 2006
  10. Glenn and Janice

    Duane Guest

    The RPM sensor is a coil style pick up that is mounted on top of the bell
    housing just behind the head.

    From early schooling, remember that electricity is generated by a magnet
    passing through a coil of wire. In this case the coil reacts to magnets
    placed around the flywheel which as they pass the coil, induce a brief but
    measurable voltage.

    Two magnets close together at Top Dead Center are used as reference for the
    rest of the pulses. The computer knows where the crankshaft is depending
    upon how many and when the pulses occur. It can then fire the spark plugs
    at the best time for power, economy and emmmissions.

    Yes, after 1986, all Volvos with the 230 engines had the sensor on the top
    of the bell housing instead of inside the distributor.

    To prevent fuel from being pumped after a crash which stops the engine, the
    ECU grounds the relay coil that controls the fuel pumps only if the RPM
    signal is present. No RPM, no relay coil ground, no fuel pumping.

    Duane, Aug 23, 2006
  11. Glenn and Janice

    KLB Guest

    Thanks, that makes things a lot clearer
    KLB, Aug 23, 2006
  12. OK Duane - I really appreciate all your suggestions. I really do. I do
    not have cash to have this thing towed to a shop and to have them
    repair it. I will pay them to fine tune it once I get this f^%$#^#^ker
    running. Sorry, Im really frustrated. My car knowledge is about a 6 on
    a 1-10 scale with 5 being average so I understand and can try most
    theories and I have access to sevreral salvage yards. Heres where Im

    I reconnected the hanging loose engine ground wire I found that had
    torn. Just a basic motor ground.
    I replaced the Fuel Pressure Regulator - I did drop the screw, heard it
    hit and bounce so currently there is no screw in it but it is steady
    and not moving anywhere but the car still dont start. Hopefully without
    the screw it doesnt matter, temporarily
    The car seemed to turn over a bit cleaner and more steady but will not
    fire up.

    I have replaced the IAC, checked that the AMM is working, checked all
    hoses and connections. I do still have the original lose wire that I
    cannot figure out where it goes. It appears to be a EGR Temp Sensor
    plug but I cannot figure out where it plugs in. I dont think this would
    keep the car from starting and it may have been disconnected since I
    bought the car and I have driven approx. 100 on the car. Its the Sensor
    in the photo on the lower right
    The car went from running but running very rich to suddenly not running
    at all. Fuel Pump Relay has been replaced. I am at a point where I am
    going to buy a ECU from the salvage yard to see if this is the problem
    but with the money I just spent on the FPR its getting where I need to
    find this issue quick.
    Glenn and Janice, Aug 23, 2006
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