1991 240DL Error Codes

  • Thread starter Thread starter Glenn and Janice
  • Start date Start date
G

Glenn and Janice

Good Day All,

I did the test to get my error codes since the car is turnign over but
not firing up. It will start for a few seconds if it has been sitting
for awhile. Anyway my error codes and what the Volvo Code Retrieval
page says is wrong.

2 - 1 - 3 Throttle Switch Signal
2 - 3 - 2 Lamda Adjustment
1 - 1 - 3 Fuel Injectors

I am assuming I need to repalce the Throttle Switch and put new Fuel
Injectors in the car. Is it possible or recommended to use used ones
from the auto salvage yard if they look good? Is there anything I
should know before doing these 2 things. I know the Lamda adjustment is
the 02 Sensor (correct) and I will replace that but that is not what is
keeping my car from starting, so I been told.

I also did a coil wire test by removing the coil wire from the
distributor and turning the key and I saw very little spark very
random. I read on another thread that this means I should replace the
crank sensor. Is this correct?

Lastly, where is the crank sensor and Throttle Switch? I have searched
online and find a discribtion of what they are but no photos of where
they are.

Thanks again for all the advice. It means alot to us. Cheers
 
OK, now I feel a little dumb by not reading further down the listings since
you have pulled the codes.

I still recommend cleaning the grounds on the intake manifold and the
switches and contacts from my other post. The ECU references those grounds
as part of its self diagnostics as well as relying on them for component
grounds. So if those grounds are bad, or the connections are bad,
everything is screwed up.

I had the same set of codes when I bought my 90. The sellers dumped it
after the mechanic they used put over $1400 worth of parts at it and still
could not get the codes to clear. Had to sell since they could not renew
registration.

I cleaned the grounds and have not seen them since. See rational below.

The ECU references engine signals based upon resistance and voltage flow.
Voltage is affected by resistance. (Ohm's Law). So any extra resistance can
really screw the system a lot.

Also since the ECU can only store 3 codes, any that were set before you
checked may have been wiped out. Pull the codes with a minute after
clearing them and restarting. You may end up with one or two which helps
narrow down the search.

213 needs to be checked with a Ohm meter to be sure. It could be dirty and
shorting to ground.
Throttle switch is toward the firewall side of the furthest most left part
of the intake manifold.

232 The Lambda system is compensating at idle for a mixture imbalance caused
by
113 faulty injectors.

Is the mixture rich or lean? Pull a plug or two and see. Dark and wet,
rich. White and dry, lean.

The injectors are pulsed by the ECU via the grounds on the intake manifold.
IF the injectors are not grounded properly, also through the same grounds,
the injector will not fire properly or at all.

Duane
 
Glenn and Janice said:
Good Day All,

I did the test to get my error codes since the car is turnign over
but not firing up. It will start for a few seconds if it has been
sitting for awhile. Anyway my error codes and what the Volvo Code
Retrieval page says is wrong.

2 - 1 - 3 Throttle Switch Signal
2 - 3 - 2 Lamda Adjustment
1 - 1 - 3 Fuel Injectors

I am assuming I need to repalce the Throttle Switch and put new Fuel
Injectors in the car. Is it possible or recommended to use used ones
from the auto salvage yard if they look good? Is there anything I
should know before doing these 2 things. I know the Lamda adjustment
is the 02 Sensor (correct) and I will replace that but that is not
what is keeping my car from starting, so I been told.
Click to expand...

I would advise against replacing things willy-nilly. It's quite
possible that only one thing is wrong and that this has caused the
others to trigger.
I also did a coil wire test by removing the coil wire from the
distributor and turning the key and I saw very little spark very
random. I read on another thread that this means I should replace the
crank sensor. Is this correct?

Lastly, where is the crank sensor and Throttle Switch? I have
searched online and find a discribtion of what they are but no photos
of where they are.

Thanks again for all the advice. It means alot to us. Cheers
Click to expand...

Hmmm. I think I would start with the crank position sensor- partly
because it's inexpensive! However, I would also counsel waiting for
wiser heads than mine to weigh in on the discussion.

http://www.eeuroparts.com/productdetail.aspx?searchResults=1&code=4563

If this gets the car running, then clear the codes and wait and see.
 
Duane - I did a test on the Fuel Pressure Regulator.and when I unlpug
the thinner hose and start the car no gas comes out at all - When I
unplug the thicker short hose, fuel streams steady and fast out of it
so the fuel is not bypassing the FPR I think. I will replace it first
tomorrow and go from there - I will also clean all the grounds and
connectos to see if that helps also -

Is the ECU located in the car at the feet of the passengers
 
Duane - I did a test on the Fuel Pressure Regulator.and when I unlpug
the thinner hose and start the car no gas comes out at all - When I
unplug the thicker short hose, fuel streams steady and fast out of it
so the fuel is not bypassing the FPR I think. I will replace it first
tomorrow and go from there - I will also clean all the grounds and
connectos to see if that helps also -

Is the ECU located in the car at the feet of the passengers
 
OK, now I feel a little dumb by not reading further down the listings since
you have pulled the codes.

I still recommend cleaning the grounds on the intake manifold and the
switches and contacts from my other post. The ECU references those grounds
as part of its self diagnostics as well as relying on them for component
grounds. So if those grounds are bad, or the connections are bad,
everything is screwed up.

I had the same set of codes when I bought my 90. The sellers dumped it
after the mechanic they used put over $1400 worth of parts at it and still
could not get the codes to clear. Had to sell since they could not renew
registration.

I cleaned the grounds and have not seen them since. See rational below.

The ECU references engine signals based upon resistance and voltage flow.
Voltage is affected by resistance. (Ohm's Law). So any extra resistance can
really screw the system a lot.

Also since the ECU can only store 3 codes, any that were set before you
checked may have been wiped out. Pull the codes with a minute after
clearing them and restarting. You may end up with one or two which helps
narrow down the search.

213 needs to be checked with a Ohm meter to be sure. It could be dirty and
shorting to ground.
Throttle switch is toward the firewall side of the furthest most left part
of the intake manifold.

232 The Lambda system is compensating at idle for a mixture imbalance caused
by
113 faulty injectors.

Is the mixture rich or lean? Pull a plug or two and see. Dark and wet,
rich. White and dry, lean.

The injectors are pulsed by the ECU via the grounds on the intake manifold.
IF the injectors are not grounded properly, also through the same grounds,
the injector will not fire properly or at all.

Duane
Click to expand...
Check the O2 sensor output. Usually that cluster of codes means it's
bad.

Bob
 
Check the O2 sensor output. Usually that cluster of codes means it's
bad.

Bob
--
Click to expand...
The O2 Sensor wouldnt cause the car to not start - it would just make
it run terrible if it was bad
 
It appears the FPR is functioning and not leaking. Why replace it??
Replace it only if leaking, it does not maintain pressure, or it does not
react to vacuum changes. The first is not happening and the other two
require testing.

ECU needs to know engine temp and amount of air entering system to determine
how long to pusle injectors to deliver a fuel-air mix that will ignite.
Injectors have a fixed opening that will deliver a known volume of fuel at a
given pressure. At idle, the ECU also adjusts air entering system via the
air control valve based upon RPM info.

The system will not pump fuel if the RPM signal is missing, so any fuel flow
while cranking indicates the RPM sensor is functioning.

O2 sensor comes online after about two minutes, sometimes longer, and is
used only after the ECU stops compensating for a cold engine.

A no start condition or poor running within two minutes of startup is not
caused by the O2 sensor unless the ECU is faulty. And most ECU's are bullet
proof unless tested incorrectly.

A bad air or dirty air control valve can really screw with an engine. With
a closed throttle plate the only way air can get to the engine is via that
valve. If open poor running lean, if closed poor running rich.

I strongly recommend the purchase of a Bentley manual to assit in this
diagnoses. An investment of $40 could save many times that in parts not
needed and time wasted.

It has a section that guides the user through testing the ECU outputs to see
if the varius critical components are reacting to output signals from the
ECU.

Duane
 
From your following statement on the previous thread:
"The system will not pump fuel if the RPM signal is missing, so any fuel
flow while cranking indicates the RPM sensor is functioning"
Click to expand...

I am curious and completely ignorant when it comes to mechanical issues but
would like to know what the RPM sensor is(does it go by another name), where
it is and if I have one on a 94 940 turbo (B230FT).
 
The RPM sensor is a coil style pick up that is mounted on top of the bell
housing just behind the head.

From early schooling, remember that electricity is generated by a magnet
passing through a coil of wire. In this case the coil reacts to magnets
placed around the flywheel which as they pass the coil, induce a brief but
measurable voltage.

Two magnets close together at Top Dead Center are used as reference for the
rest of the pulses. The computer knows where the crankshaft is depending
upon how many and when the pulses occur. It can then fire the spark plugs
at the best time for power, economy and emmmissions.

Yes, after 1986, all Volvos with the 230 engines had the sensor on the top
of the bell housing instead of inside the distributor.

To prevent fuel from being pumped after a crash which stops the engine, the
ECU grounds the relay coil that controls the fuel pumps only if the RPM
signal is present. No RPM, no relay coil ground, no fuel pumping.

Duane
 
Duane said:
The RPM sensor is a coil style pick up that is mounted on top of the bell
housing just behind the head.

From early schooling, remember that electricity is generated by a magnet
passing through a coil of wire. In this case the coil reacts to magnets
placed around the flywheel which as they pass the coil, induce a brief but
measurable voltage.

Two magnets close together at Top Dead Center are used as reference for the
rest of the pulses. The computer knows where the crankshaft is depending
upon how many and when the pulses occur. It can then fire the spark plugs
at the best time for power, economy and emmmissions.

Yes, after 1986, all Volvos with the 230 engines had the sensor on the top
of the bell housing instead of inside the distributor.

To prevent fuel from being pumped after a crash which stops the engine, the
ECU grounds the relay coil that controls the fuel pumps only if the RPM
signal is present. No RPM, no relay coil ground, no fuel pumping.

Duane
Click to expand...

OK Duane - I really appreciate all your suggestions. I really do. I do
not have cash to have this thing towed to a shop and to have them
repair it. I will pay them to fine tune it once I get this f^%$#^#^ker
running. Sorry, Im really frustrated. My car knowledge is about a 6 on
a 1-10 scale with 5 being average so I understand and can try most
theories and I have access to sevreral salvage yards. Heres where Im
at..

I reconnected the hanging loose engine ground wire I found that had
torn. Just a basic motor ground.
I replaced the Fuel Pressure Regulator - I did drop the screw, heard it
hit and bounce so currently there is no screw in it but it is steady
and not moving anywhere but the car still dont start. Hopefully without
the screw it doesnt matter, temporarily
The car seemed to turn over a bit cleaner and more steady but will not
fire up.

I have replaced the IAC, checked that the AMM is working, checked all
hoses and connections. I do still have the original lose wire that I
cannot figure out where it goes. It appears to be a EGR Temp Sensor
plug but I cannot figure out where it plugs in. I dont think this would
keep the car from starting and it may have been disconnected since I
bought the car and I have driven approx. 100 on the car. Its the Sensor
in the photo on the lower right
]http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/ImagesProcedures/EGRSystem.gif
The car went from running but running very rich to suddenly not running
at all. Fuel Pump Relay has been replaced. I am at a point where I am
going to buy a ECU from the salvage yard to see if this is the problem
but with the money I just spent on the FPR its getting where I need to
find this issue quick.
 
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