1st time 240 owners - Basic Service Items

  • Thread starter Thread starter Michael Baldwin
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Michael Baldwin

I recently acquired my first Volvo. A 1989 240 DL w/150,000 miles
registered on a broken odometer. This post is intended to encourage
other Volvo novices to take care of the basics.

Currently I only have the Haynes Manual and the internet for reference.
Both have seemed adequate for my needs up to this point in time.

I've replaced the Steering Rods & Ends with no problem and no apparent
alignment issues, though a check at the Alignment Shop is certainly the
best follow-up.
I just replaced the Timing Belt (Conti). I resorted to the "bump the
key" method of loosening the Crank Pulley Hub Bolt. The Haynes Manual
suggests wedging a screwdriver in the Flywheel/Starter Ring,,,??? Yikes!
I really think I had more time spent removing and replacing the drive
belts (Alt/PS/AC) than in the actual Timing Belt Replacement. There's
one nut/bolt on the AC that really gives me a tough time.
My next endeavour will be fixing that broken odometer. The internet
has been the most useful source of information regarding repairing
broken odometers and replacement parts.
Again this post is intended to encourage 1st time 240 owners to get
after the basics.

Best Regards - Mike Baldwin
 
Michael Baldwin said:
I recently acquired my first Volvo. A 1989 240 DL w/150,000 miles
registered on a broken odometer. This post is intended to encourage
other Volvo novices to take care of the basics.

Currently I only have the Haynes Manual and the internet for reference.
Both have seemed adequate for my needs up to this point in time.

I've replaced the Steering Rods & Ends with no problem and no apparent
alignment issues, though a check at the Alignment Shop is certainly the
best follow-up.
I just replaced the Timing Belt (Conti). I resorted to the "bump the
key" method of loosening the Crank Pulley Hub Bolt. The Haynes Manual
suggests wedging a screwdriver in the Flywheel/Starter Ring,,,??? Yikes!
I really think I had more time spent removing and replacing the drive
belts (Alt/PS/AC) than in the actual Timing Belt Replacement. There's
one nut/bolt on the AC that really gives me a tough time.
My next endeavour will be fixing that broken odometer. The internet
has been the most useful source of information regarding repairing
broken odometers and replacement parts.
Again this post is intended to encourage 1st time 240 owners to get
after the basics.

Best Regards - Mike Baldwin
Click to expand...

Actually keeping the flame trap clean probably will avoid more problems than
any other simple chore.
 
Crankshaft position sensor and air filter box thermostat are two items
which should be on any 240's once every ten years replacement list.

Also the automatic transmission cooler lines wear out at the aluminum
block clamp under the engine. All of a sudden you have a nasty tranny
fluid leak. Remove the block and check for damage.

If the original fuses are still in the fuse box, change 'em all out with
fresh ones and make sure the contacts are clean. A cheap way to prevent
unplanned outages.

Keep an eye on the radiator plastic tank to fin connection area. It
will fail at some point.

Motor mounts are also a high failure rate item as the miles and years
build up, especially the one under the oil filter.
 
John Horner said:
Crankshaft position sensor and air filter box thermostat are two items
which should be on any 240's once every ten years replacement list.

Also the automatic transmission cooler lines wear out at the aluminum
block clamp under the engine. All of a sudden you have a nasty tranny
fluid leak. Remove the block and check for damage.

If the original fuses are still in the fuse box, change 'em all out with
fresh ones and make sure the contacts are clean. A cheap way to prevent
unplanned outages.

Keep an eye on the radiator plastic tank to fin connection area. It will
fail at some point.

Motor mounts are also a high failure rate item as the miles and years
build up, especially the one under the oil filter.
Click to expand...

Most 240s don't have a crankshaft position sensor, just the last few years
IIRC. Earlier cars use a hall sensor in the distributor, even earlier ones
use a VR sensor in the same place.

Airbox thermostat should just be removed and the flap wedged to the outside
air position unless you live in a very cold climate. The feature is pretty
useless and makes no appreciable difference in warmup time. On turbo cars it
is entirely useless because of the intercooler.
 
John Horner advises:
Crankshaft position sensor and air filter box thermostat are two
items which should be on any 240's once every ten
years replacement list.
Also the automatic transmission cooler lines wear out at the
aluminum block clamp under the engine.
If the original fuses are still in the fuse box,
change 'em all out with fresh ones and make sure
the contacts are clean.

Keep an eye on the radiator plastic tank
Motor mounts are also a high failure rate item
Click to expand...

All good points John. While this particular car has been well cared
for by previous owners, without a repair log of past maintenance pulled
for reference, I need these type of tips and reminders for sure.

Best Regards - Mike Baldwin
 
Some things I do with ALL used vehicles I purchase and plan to keep in
the family:

Wash, wax, vacuum.

Full tune up, inspecting and replacing all parts as necessary.

Replace all fluids, and filters; oil, transmission, power steering,
rear end, coolant, and brake.

Replace air and gas filters.

Examine and replace hoses and belts as required.

For Volvos, remove the intake manifold and examine the wiring harness:
repair and replace as needed.

With the harness off, inspect and replace all vacuum lines as needed,
and remove and thoroughly clean the breather box.

Remove and thoroughly clean the idle air control motor, and the
throttle body and switch.

Replace wiper blades.
 
Some things I do with ALL used vehicles I purchase and plan to keep in
the family:

Wash, wax, vacuum.

Full tune up, inspecting and replacing all parts as necessary.

Replace all fluids, and filters; oil, transmission, power steering,
rear end, coolant, and brake.

Replace air and gas filters.

Examine and replace hoses and belts as required.

For Volvos, remove the intake manifold and examine the wiring harness:
repair and replace as needed.

With the harness off, inspect and replace all vacuum lines as needed,
and remove and thoroughly clean the breather box.

Remove and thoroughly clean the idle air control motor, and the
throttle body and switch.

Replace wiper blades.
Click to expand...

Wisdom likely gained from experience. Well worth heeding.

Chuck Fiedler
Nothing but Volvo since 1974
 
Howard said:
...

Actually keeping the flame trap clean probably will avoid more problems than
any other simple chore.
Click to expand...

I'll second that!
I was amazed when my '83 245 pushed the front cam seal out and pumped
three quarts past it in less than ten miles.
Had I been on the freeway, I probably would not have noticed the smoke
(limo tint all around the back) and fried the motor...
 
Pull the cover over the heating/cooling area in the passenger footwell
and clean out the area in front of the air conditioner fin thingy. It
is facing the firewall, in the front of that area. Lots of leaves and
composting vegetation matter in mine. The area has a drain so be sure
that is clean as well.

Remove the retainers for the headlights and be sure the lenses are
still sealed tight on the reflectors. I was able to use polishing
compound to get all the yellow off my lenses.

Replace the headlight bulbs. Sylvania makes some good, bright bulbs
that actually put more useable light on the road. (Silverstar...?).

I can't stress this enough: GET THE BENTLEY MANUAL!!! it is worth
EVERY PENNY!!!!!!!!! - ISBN 0-8376-0285-8

Remove the spare tire and clean the well out.

Get 303 Aerospace Protectant. Might as well buy a gallon as once you
use it you will be addicted. Use it on all rubber and vinyl. I even do
the hoses under the hood. Someone should sue Armorall out of business-
that stuff is pure crap and will destroy an interior.. I know by
experience!

New spark plugs and wires.

Go to the Pick 'N Pull and get a spare air mass meter. Be sure the
numbers match. While there, pick up some spare relays (fuel pump, bulb
out sensor, etc.)

Lube the front wheel bearings.

As mentioned, check all 3 motor mounts (two front, one rear under
tranny)

If it doesn't handle like a sports car, rebuild the entire front end
including having new bushings pressed into the control arms.

Be sure the drains for the cowl vent are clear.

Clean all the hinges and door jambs with simple green or equivalent,
blow dry, wax, and lube hinges and strikers. The doors should sound
like a Mercedes when closed... Or is it, a mercedes' door sounds like
a Volvo?.. YA! That's it!

Get a very bright light and thoroughly examine all vacuum lines under
the hood. Squeeze them all, and if any pull off easily or feel mushy,
replace them.

If there is an annoying rattle at about 2,000 RPM, the inner and outer
exhaust header pipes are most likely the culprit. The solution is to
drill through and insert self-tapping sheet metal screws or have them
welded in the same way.

Check all the accessory bushings under the hood (alternator, air
conditioner compressor, and power steering mounts).

I have had my 1990 245 for three years now (5 speed stick wagon) and I
ABSOLUTELY LOVE driving that car! 27+ MPG at 70mph, smooth, quiet,
responsive, easy to work on, and from what statistics I have gathered,
probably the safest car ever made... IMO. ;-)

That should keep you busy....


__ __
Randy & \ \/ /alerie's
\__/olvos
'90 245 Estate - '93 965 Estate
"Shelby" & "Kate"
 
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