Clive said:
Not sure about the 2.4 but stay away from the 10v 2.5 theya re the only
varient that has an odd exhaust where the flexible joint is an intergal
part of the manifold rather than a bolt on flange. It is VERY expensive
when it need replacing. I think you can guess how I found this out :-((
I agree, but that said the 2.5 10v is one of the more common engines found
in the 850 / 70 series. But yes the flexy joint can be abit of an expensive
repair when it goes. (have a '97 S70 w/ 70k and ok so far!)
All the 5cylinders are trouble free given proper servicing- they're all
basically tough and will do about 200k+ without bother (with 5k oil changes)
Occasional headgasket problems after a big mileage on cars which havent had
regular coolant changes or where the cooling fan resistor pack has packed up
and they've cooked in traffic.
From a driving point of view the 2.4T (low pressure turbo, 193/200bhp) is by
far the best drive, effortless power and lots of torque to haul a fully
loaded estate about with ease. They're no more juicy than a NA which will
have to work harder. Turbo's last well and dont often give problems. Again
fresh oil is the key.
Avoid both 2 litre units, the 10v is woefully underpowered, and the 20v
makes no real power until after 4500rpm- its hard work to drive.
If you're not in a big hurry, dont load the car that often or carry lots of
passengers and prefer a manual the 2.5 10 (145bhp) is adeqaute, its pretty
torquey and gives surprising go when roused-with 30-34mpg economy. 100mph
unlaiden is an easy crusing speed.
If you want an auto, or carry some loads or tow, the 2.5 20v (170bhp) is the
minium I'd want. This is very very slightly heavier on fuel than the 10v,
and where both drive pretty much identically upto 5000rpm, the 20v has alot
more go past there, the 10 runs out of breath.
Bear in mind the auto has no specified fluid change interval and many 'boxes
fail at around 100-150k miles because of this. If you want it to last get a
lowish mileage one and change the fluid every 20k or so. This is a fairly
easy operation for any half competitant mechanic.
When checking a car, look for instant start hot or cold, no blue smoke from
the exhaust and the hydraulic valve lifters should be silent. Accept a brief
tap tap tap at cold start, which should vanish within acouple of seconds,
especially on 20valvers. If it goes on for any longer, find another car. Be
guided more on condition and service history, rather than mileage.
The other weak spot on cars of this era is air con evaporator leaks. Check
the air con blows cold and that the compressor clutch doesnt cycle too
quickly (indicating its short of gas) Changing the evap is a dash out £500
job for someone who's done it before.
Hope this helps.
Tim..
