20v 0r 10v 850/ v70

I am lookin at either a late 850 or early v70 petrol estate auto as the next
car.

Can anyone give me the merits of the engine sizes on offer with the valve
combinations?
I think on offer is-:
2.0 Ltr 10v or 20 v
2.4 Ltr 10v or 20v
Which is the most trouble free?

I tow a van so am interested in economy and pulling power ( I know
impossible to get both but a compromise would be nice

Thanks for any advice

 

Not sure about the 2.4 but stay away from the 10v 2.5 theya re the only
varient that has an odd exhaust where the flexible joint is an intergal
part of the manifold rather than a bolt on flange. It is VERY expensive
when it need replacing. I think you can guess how I found this out :-((

 

Go for the 2.5 Ltr light pressure turbo. A lot of torque at low revs means
pulling power.
BR
Carl

 

I agree, but that said the 2.5 10v is one of the more common engines found
in the 850 / 70 series. But yes the flexy joint can be abit of an expensive
repair when it goes. (have a '97 S70 w/ 70k and ok so far!)

All the 5cylinders are trouble free given proper servicing- they're all
basically tough and will do about 200k+ without bother (with 5k oil changes)

Occasional headgasket problems after a big mileage on cars which havent had
regular coolant changes or where the cooling fan resistor pack has packed up
and they've cooked in traffic.

From a driving point of view the 2.4T (low pressure turbo, 193/200bhp) is by
far the best drive, effortless power and lots of torque to haul a fully
loaded estate about with ease. They're no more juicy than a NA which will
have to work harder. Turbo's last well and dont often give problems. Again
fresh oil is the key.

Avoid both 2 litre units, the 10v is woefully underpowered, and the 20v
makes no real power until after 4500rpm- its hard work to drive.

If you're not in a big hurry, dont load the car that often or carry lots of
passengers and prefer a manual the 2.5 10 (145bhp) is adeqaute, its pretty
torquey and gives surprising go when roused-with 30-34mpg economy. 100mph
unlaiden is an easy crusing speed.

If you want an auto, or carry some loads or tow, the 2.5 20v (170bhp) is the
minium I'd want. This is very very slightly heavier on fuel than the 10v,
and where both drive pretty much identically upto 5000rpm, the 20v has alot
more go past there, the 10 runs out of breath.

Bear in mind the auto has no specified fluid change interval and many 'boxes
fail at around 100-150k miles because of this. If you want it to last get a
lowish mileage one and change the fluid every 20k or so. This is a fairly
easy operation for any half competitant mechanic.

When checking a car, look for instant start hot or cold, no blue smoke from
the exhaust and the hydraulic valve lifters should be silent. Accept a brief
tap tap tap at cold start, which should vanish within acouple of seconds,
especially on 20valvers. If it goes on for any longer, find another car. Be
guided more on condition and service history, rather than mileage.

The other weak spot on cars of this era is air con evaporator leaks. Check
the air con blows cold and that the compressor clutch doesnt cycle too
quickly (indicating its short of gas) Changing the evap is a dash out £500
job for someone who's done it before.

Hope this helps.

Tim..

 

I have had most of the range now and have used it to tow all sorts. What I
think is;
2.5l 20v is the best all rounder, I found that both the 10v and 20v 2.0l
were sluggs as an auto, ok solo in a Manuel.
The turbo can be expensive to sort out as it has some parts only found on
that engine.
All have covered over 150thou without trouble. Though do go for one with
history as driveshafts and the front end takes a beating.
One of the 4x4 would be nice for towing but again can be very expensive to
fix.
Me, now I run a late 960 as I needed the higher weight capacity. This has
only dine 195thou and just passed its mot with a new windscreen and a couple
of bulbs!

John

 

Thanks to all for advice sounds like the 20v 2.5 auto is the answer.My
present car is a 91 740 2.4 diesel auto 250 k and its only real fault so far
is tattiness.The headlining collapsed and the vw engine has always been a
head turner noise wise especially when started in a cul de sac early in the
morning Thing is it just goes..(.although not much good for towing now )
and why the heck did they turn to FWD. I shall miss the rwd

Thanks