240 air conditioner problem

  • Thread starter Thread starter jsegura525
  • Start date Start date
J

jsegura525

Hello,
the air conditioner on my 240 is having issues.
The fan does not even turn on for air, heat or defrost.
Where would I start to fix the fan motor?
Is there a fuse within the air fan unit?
When I flick the air conditioner blue button is does not
even light up.
I checked the main fuse box and the fuse is fine.


Also, how would I figure out if my car has the new or
older version of air conditioner?

Any advise would be helpful.
Thanks,

Joseph
 
If I remember correctly, only the 93 240 had the "new" gas. Sorry,
cannot help you with the rest.
 
Hello,
the air conditioner on my 240 is having issues.
The fan does not even turn on for air, heat or defrost.
Where would I start to fix the fan motor?
Is there a fuse within the air fan unit?
When I flick the air conditioner blue button is does not
even light up.
I checked the main fuse box and the fuse is fine.


Also, how would I figure out if my car has the new or
older version of air conditioner?

Any advise would be helpful.
Thanks,

Joseph
Click to expand...

Unless it has already been converted, the car has the old R-12. Conversion
is not terribly difficult though, might even work out to less than replacing
the old O-rings and having it charged with expensive R-12.

First thing to do is wire brush the fuse holders and check the ends of the
fuses for oxidation. That fuse box is one of the worst parts of the
otherwise solid 240 design.
 
Unless it has already been converted, the car has the old R-12. Conversion
is not terribly difficult though, might even work out to less than replacing
the old O-rings and having it charged with expensive R-12.

First thing to do is wire brush the fuse holders and check the ends of the
fuses for oxidation. That fuse box is one of the worst parts of the
otherwise solid 240 design.
Click to expand...
I would agree with this response. For years I replaced all the fuses
on my 240s with GBC fuses of the proper amperage. These are glass
bodied and have good (chromed?) ends. They never exhibit the corrosion
factor of the OEM ceramic fuses. I recently had an occasion to find,
however, that it's not always obvious when they've blown.
 
Hi Joseph,

That advice re the 240 fuses is well worth considering. I've had no further
corrosion problems with fuses since wire-brushing the fuse holders and
replacing all the original ceramic fuses with *ceramic* types with
*brass\copper* ends. This permits copper to copper contact thus eliminating
the galvanic action between the original dissimilar metals. (At least
that's my theory...........) Also it still permits easy checking for blown
fuses. Our local Volvo dealer doesn't stock them. I had to get them from a
VW supply house, sad to say.

Finally a coating of dielectric grease on both the ends of the fuses and the
fuseholder contacts completes the job, unless you also want to ensure better
contact by judicious bending of the fuseholders.

Good Luck.
Andy I. ('58 445 wagon; '65 122S wagon; '67 121; '74 142; '74 145 wagon;
'86 245 wagon; '93 244 Classic wagon.)



: >
: >Unless it has already been converted, the car has the old R-12.
Conversion
: >is not terribly difficult though, might even work out to less than
replacing
: >the old O-rings and having it charged with expensive R-12.
: >
: >First thing to do is wire brush the fuse holders and check the ends of
the
: >fuses for oxidation. That fuse box is one of the worst parts of the
: >otherwise solid 240 design.
: >
: I would agree with this response. For years I replaced all the fuses
: on my 240s with GBC fuses of the proper amperage. These are glass
: bodied and have good (chromed?) ends. They never exhibit the corrosion
: factor of the OEM ceramic fuses. I recently had an occasion to find,
: however, that it's not always obvious when they've blown.
:
 
Hi Joseph,

That advice re the 240 fuses is well worth considering. I've had no further
corrosion problems with fuses since wire-brushing the fuse holders and
replacing all the original ceramic fuses with *ceramic* types with
*brass\copper* ends. This permits copper to copper contact thus eliminating
the galvanic action between the original dissimilar metals. (At least
that's my theory...........) Also it still permits easy checking for blown
fuses. Our local Volvo dealer doesn't stock them. I had to get them from a
VW supply house, sad to say.

Finally a coating of dielectric grease on both the ends of the fuses and the
fuseholder contacts completes the job, unless you also want to ensure better
contact by judicious bending of the fuseholders.

Good Luck.
Andy I. ('58 445 wagon; '65 122S wagon; '67 121; '74 142; '74 145 wagon;
'86 245 wagon; '93 244 Classic wagon.)

: >
: >Unless it has already been converted, the car has the old R-12.
Conversion
: >is not terribly difficult though, might even work out to less than
replacing
: >the old O-rings and having it charged with expensive R-12.
: >
: >First thing to do is wire brush the fuse holders and check the ends of
the
: >fuses for oxidation. That fuse box is one of the worst parts of the
: >otherwise solid 240 design.
: >
: I would agree with this response. For years I replaced all the fuses
: on my 240s with GBC fuses of the proper amperage. These are glass
: bodied and have good (chromed?) ends. They never exhibit the corrosion
: factor of the OEM ceramic fuses. I recently had an occasion to find,
: however, that it's not always obvious when they've blown.
:
Click to expand...

HELLO,
I checked the fuses (#3-heater fan and #12-air conditioner) and both
check out fine.
The #3 only seems to control the heater fan. The #12 fuse besides
controlling the air unit,
also controls the seat belt reminder
and the seat belt reminder does ring, so that fuse is working fine.
Is there a relay box or another fuse box where the heater fan/air fan
and/or the air conditioner unit
might be having a problem. I followed the wiring from the R-132 unit
and it continues around near
the battery then "seems" to continue to some fan that sits in front of
the radiator (I have never seen
this fan before, what is it? Why do I have two fans at the radiator?)
Another thing.... the air conditioner
switch (snow flake/blue) does not light up either.....
PLEASE HELP, IT IS IN THE 90'S HERE IN NEW MEXICO....
Thanks,
Joseph
 
I would agree with this response. For years I replaced all the fuses
on my 240s with GBC fuses of the proper amperage. These are glass
bodied and have good (chromed?) ends. They never exhibit the corrosion
factor of the OEM ceramic fuses. I recently had an occasion to find,
however, that it's not always obvious when they've blown.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -
Click to expand...

HELLO,
I checked the fuses (#3-heater fan and #12-air conditioner) and both
check out fine.
The #3 only seems to control the heater fan. The #12 fuse besides
controlling the air unit,
also controls the seat belt reminder
and the seat belt reminder does ring, so that fuse is working fine.
Is there a relay box or another fuse box where the heater fan/air fan
and/or the air conditioner unit
might be having a problem. I followed the wiring from the R-132 unit
and it continues around near
the battery then "seems" to continue to some fan that sits in front of
the radiator (I have never seen
this fan before, what is it? Why do I have two fans at the radiator?)
Another thing.... the air conditioner
switch (snow flake/blue) does not light up either.....
PLEASE HELP, IT IS IN THE 90'S HERE IN NEW MEXICO....
Thanks,
Joseph
 
Unless it has already been converted, the car has the old R-12. Conversion
is not terribly difficult though, might even work out to less than replacing
the old O-rings and having it charged with expensive R-12.

First thing to do is wire brush the fuse holders and check the ends of the
fuses for oxidation. That fuse box is one of the worst parts of the
otherwise solid 240 design.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -
Click to expand...

HELLO,
I checked the fuses (#3-heater fan and #12-air conditioner) and both
check out fine.
The #3 only seems to control the heater fan. The #12 fuse besides
controlling the air unit,
also controls the seat belt reminder
and the seat belt reminder does ring, so that fuse is working fine.
Is there a relay box or another fuse box where the heater fan/air fan
and/or the air conditioner unit
might be having a problem. I followed the wiring from the R-132 unit
and it continues around near
the battery then "seems" to continue to some fan that sits in front of
the radiator (I have never seen
this fan before, what is it? Why do I have two fans at the radiator?)
Another thing.... the air conditioner
switch (snow flake/blue) does not light up either.....
PLEASE HELP, IT IS IN THE 90'S HERE IN NEW MEXICO....
Thanks,
Joseph
 
Hello,
the air conditioner on my 240 is having issues.
The fan does not even turn on for air, heat or defrost.
Where would I start to fix the fan motor?
Is there a fuse within the air fan unit?
When I flick the air conditioner blue button is does not
even light up.
I checked the main fuse box and the fuse is fine.

Also, how would I figure out if my car has the new or
older version of air conditioner?

Any advise would be helpful.
Thanks,

Joseph
Click to expand...

Did the fan motor make noise for a while before dying?
One of the things that does go wrong with 240s is the fan motor; they
are famously hard to get to to replace. Do some googling to see.
I dont' have a light-up air conditioner blue button on my 240, though,
just a twisty knob with no lights at all.
 
Hi Joseph,

That advice re the 240 fuses is well worth considering. I've had no further
corrosion problems with fuses since wire-brushing the fuse holders and
replacing all the original ceramic fuses with *ceramic* types with
*brass\copper* ends. This permits copper to copper contact thus eliminating
the galvanic action between the original dissimilar metals. (At least
that's my theory...........) Also it still permits easy checking for blown
fuses. Our local Volvo dealer doesn't stock them. I had to get them from a
VW supply house, sad to say.

Finally a coating of dielectric grease on both the ends of the fuses and the
fuseholder contacts completes the job, unless you also want to ensure better
contact by judicious bending of the fuseholders.

Good Luck.
Andy I. ('58 445 wagon; '65 122S wagon; '67 121; '74 142; '74 145 wagon;
'86 245 wagon; '93 244 Classic wagon.)

: >
: >Unless it has already been converted, the car has the old R-12.
Conversion
: >is not terribly difficult though, might even work out to less than
replacing
: >the old O-rings and having it charged with expensive R-12.
: >
: >First thing to do is wire brush the fuse holders and check the ends of
the
: >fuses for oxidation. That fuse box is one of the worst parts of the
: >otherwise solid 240 design.
: >
: I would agree with this response. For years I replaced all the fuses
: on my 240s with GBC fuses of the proper amperage. These are glass
: bodied and have good (chromed?) ends. They never exhibit the corrosion
: factor of the OEM ceramic fuses. I recently had an occasion to find,
: however, that it's not always obvious when they've blown.
:
Click to expand...

In the Olden Dayes... (maybe not quite as Olde in Europe?), you used
to be able to buy dirt cheap packages of 5 or 10 of the metal fuse
link from those damn ceramic fuses, of a certain amperage, so you
could replace just the burned out link and fix the actual fuse,
instead of spending all that money for a new fuse. Sadly, we don't
seem to be able to achieve that vast savings any more, unless somebody
knows somebody who still stocks the metal strips, so that makes
forcing us to live with those things even more cruel.
 
In the Olden Dayes... (maybe not quite as Olde in Europe?), you used
to be able to buy dirt cheap packages of 5 or 10 of the metal fuse
link from those damn ceramic fuses, of a certain amperage, so you
could replace just the burned out link and fix the actual fuse,
instead of spending all that money for a new fuse. Sadly, we don't
seem to be able to achieve that vast savings any more, unless somebody
knows somebody who still stocks the metal strips, so that makes
forcing us to live with those things even more cruel.
Click to expand...

Um, most US auto parts stores carry or can get GBC fuses (sorry, I
forget who makes them but they're glass bodied with shiny metal ends).

I have replaced every fuse on every 240 I ever owned (a fair number
counting the kids' cars) and have had next to no fuse problems until
recently when a brake light fuse blew on my '93 and looked like it was
fine. Once replaced, all was well.

Wish I could remember who makes the fuses, they come in a yellow (used
to be metal) box with about six fuses of the indicated amperage.

Sorry to see IPD doesn't carry them.

Chuck Fiedler
Nothing but Volvo since 1974
 
Um, most US auto parts stores carry or can get GBC fuses (sorry, I
forget who makes them but they're glass bodied with shiny metal ends).

I have replaced every fuse on every 240 I ever owned (a fair number
counting the kids' cars) and have had next to no fuse problems until
recently when a brake light fuse blew on my '93 and looked like it was
fine. Once replaced, all was well.

Wish I could remember who makes the fuses, they come in a yellow (used
to be metal) box with about six fuses of the indicated amperage.

Sorry to see IPD doesn't carry them.

Chuck Fiedler
Nothing but Volvo since 1974
Click to expand...

Buss is the name I recall seeing on the yellow boxes.
 
Did the fan motor make noise for a while before dying?
One of the things that does go wrong with 240s is the fan motor; they
are famously hard to get to to replace. Do some googling to see.
I dont' have a light-up air conditioner blue button on my 240, though,
just a twisty knob with no lights at all.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -
Click to expand...

I bought it and the fan and air were not working.
Thanks for the help.
Joseph
 
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