240 Diesel overheating with ice-cold radiator part II

Discussion in 'Volvo 240' started by egykutya, Jan 7, 2007.

  1. egykutya

    egykutya Guest

    Thanks all of you for the answers, and suggestions!
    Today I finally got good weather and had a deep look in the car, I
    flushed the radiator. Actually took out, and washed it from the inside
    and out, got some dirt out, but not much.
    It is not in a great shape from the outside but it was not blocked.
    Checked the new thermostat, it does open.
    The tubes are in good condition, they don't flatten.
    Put back everything and refilled the whole stuff trying to take the air
    bubbles out by letting the engine run with the overflow tank open.
    I did get some air out, but after the engine started to overheat again
    (approx 10 minutes) and I had 2 liters of antifreeze which could not go
    back in, because the tank was at max.

    I did not take out the water pump as some of you suggestd because I
    don't know how to do it and I don't have a manual (although I did find
    one finally on internet from Bentley publishing,wich includes the
    diesel modell but it would take 5 weeks to ship,)
    Does someone know any other alternative or an internet site wich would
    explain the changing of the water-pump on a diesel modell?

    Also, what came to my mind is that the car had this problem directly
    after I have had the plugs replaced (sorry I don't know the correct
    name in english, the stuff wich heats up the engine for the diesel
    ignition).
    Could the changement of the plugs in any way affect the cooling system?
    They were changed by a Volvo repair shop, but it's the first time I
    took the car there so I don't know if they are really honest or not.

    Thank you for your time
    Andrea
     
    egykutya, Jan 7, 2007
    #1
  2. egykutya

    James Sweet Guest


    I can't think of anything related to changing the glow plugs that would
    mess up the cooling system. Can you squeeze the hose with the engine
    running to tell if coolant is flowing?
     
    James Sweet, Jan 7, 2007
    #2
  3. egykutya

    M-gineering Guest

    Does the interior heater work properly? If yes the waterpump should be
    OK. Make sure the thermostat isn't installed upside down, arrow should
    point up.

    If you've never changed a timing belt before, this probably isn't a good
    engine to learn

    Does the engine start properly and runs the same? If not they might have
    removed the injectionpump and put it back wrong and messed up the timing.

    Do you have a lot of white smoke, either during startup or by the time
    the thing starts overheating?

    IS the radiator cool all over or is there a single row at the bottom
    which is hot?

    Engine is the same as in the VW LT van, and I suspect audi 5 cyl diesels
    could be similar
     
    M-gineering, Jan 7, 2007
    #3
  4. egykutya

    egykutya Guest

    Frankly I couldn't eighter, but then again i don't know much about
    diesel engines so I asked.
    I did sqeese the upper hose coming from the engine, first there were
    some burps of air, then it got silent.
    I don't know if water is flowing or not, but it's quite "soft" and very
    easy to squeeze (a bit too easy I would say)
     
    egykutya, Jan 8, 2007
    #4
  5. egykutya

    James Sweet Guest


    Does the hose get hot? I suppose not if the radiator is cold.

    I once had an intermittent cooling problem with my gasoline 240, turns
    out what happened is a small pebble got in the radiator I picked up from
    a junkyard and then found its way into the water pump where it would jam
    up the impeller and cause it to just sit stationary while the shaft
    continued to spin.
     
    James Sweet, Jan 8, 2007
    #5
  6. egykutya

    egykutya Guest

    The top hose gets hot close to the engine but the radiator end of the
    hose is cold.
     
    egykutya, Jan 8, 2007
    #6
  7. egykutya

    egykutya Guest

    I checked it today, it took about 7 minutes to reach normal temperature
    and then all of a sudden the needle started to climb quite fast.
    For my surprise the interior heating is not working this time ( it did
    before, although usually it takes some time before it starts to heat, I
    would say 10-15 minutes of driving with the winter) but this time I did
    not dare to let the engine run so long because of the overheating.
    point up.

    My dad warned me, so I did extra care to put back the thermostat the
    way it was there before, the springy part pointing towards the engine
    and the other end upwards (it wouldn't go in any other way anyhow).
    I suppose you are right, I'm more familiar with taking apart and
    repairing notebooks than cars.

    The engine starts very easily and runs well, some blue smoke at the
    beginning but it's 21 years old.
    There's no water in the exhaust if that's what you mean by white smoke.

    It is cool all over from top to bottom.
    As well as the bottom hose coming from it, to the thermostate.

    I called the Volvo service, who installed the glow plugs to see what he
    suggest. He thought it was still the problem of thermostate. He
    suggested to take it out and drive without, saying that with the winter
    it would be OK.
    I was quite surprised with the answer because I always heard that
    running the engine colder than the normal is really not good for it.
    In any case there's no way I could drive back the car to the repair
    shop in this state, it's simpl too far away.
     
    egykutya, Jan 8, 2007
    #7
  8. egykutya

    James Sweet Guest


    My thought is that your water pump is bad, either that or something is
    lodged in the system. You could try removing the thermostat temporarily
    and see if coolant starts flowing but if that doesn't fix it, pull the
    water pump and check the impeller, it may be broken or jammed.
     
    James Sweet, Jan 8, 2007
    #8
  9. egykutya

    bullshark Guest

    Running too cold is way better than running too hot, and it would
    determine the thermostat's part in the problem with certainty. Take it
    out and see. If your engine still runs hot you can be pretty sure that
    the water pump is the problem; if it runs cold then replace the
    thermostat.

    Your mechanic is very strange. Winter is the time you need the
    thermostat the most, or your engine will never get warm enough to run
    efficiently.

    Never underestimate a Volvo repairshop's capacity for evil.

    bullshark
     
    bullshark, Jan 8, 2007
    #9
  10. egykutya

    M-gineering Guest

    If you remove the thermostat coolant can go either through the bypass or
    through the radiator, which depending on the restriction in the radiator
    doesn't give much cooling.
    Is the bottomvalve on the thermostat present?
    Stick a gardenhose in the bottomhose. Can you get water through both the
    bypass (hole central underneath the thermostat) and through the
    engineblock? If you reverse the hose (stick it in the thermostathousing)
    do you get a free flow from the bottomhose?
    If you run the engine for a few seconds (coolantsystem complete and
    filled with water but with the thermostathousing removed) can you
    observe coolantflow?


    --
     
    M-gineering, Jan 8, 2007
    #10
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