240 Differential modifications

  • Thread starter Thread starter Patrick Keenan
  • Start date Start date
P

Patrick Keenan

I have a 1992 240 Wagon, 5-speed - ABS and air bag. It's in pretty good
shape.

Originally, this came with limited slip diff, but essential components of
that broke and the rear axle was replaced with an axle from a non-ABS car.
Unfortunately, this happened at a time when I was unable to pursue the
repairs and have them fixed properly. I'm not sure what year or model axle
is on the car now, aside from being late 80's.

Now, the car drives reasonably, but nothing that runs off the diff signal
works properly. The speedo does register about 30 km/hr at 3,000 RPM in 5th
gear, which is a bit low. The odometer isn't useful and the cruise and ABS
don't work at all.

The local mechanics tell me that if they replace the reluctor ring (with a
Volvo part they've identified), the diff output will match what the computer
expects to see. Cost looks reasonable compared to the other options.

I'm of course concerned that I don't once again get involved in a repair
that won't work properly. Is there a way I can be sure, prior to putting
wrench to car, that this reluctor ring will actually work (i.e.fit) with the
diff presently on the car?

The ideal for me would actually be to get a limited slipdiff or axle that
works with this car, in case anyone just happens to know of one....

Thanks for any comments.
Patrick Keenan
 
Patrick said:
I have a 1992 240 Wagon, 5-speed - ABS and air bag. It's in pretty good
shape.

Originally, this came with limited slip diff, but essential components of
that broke and the rear axle was replaced with an axle from a non-ABS car.
Unfortunately, this happened at a time when I was unable to pursue the
repairs and have them fixed properly. I'm not sure what year or model axle
is on the car now, aside from being late 80's.

Now, the car drives reasonably, but nothing that runs off the diff signal
works properly. The speedo does register about 30 km/hr at 3,000 RPM in 5th
gear, which is a bit low. The odometer isn't useful and the cruise and ABS
don't work at all.

The local mechanics tell me that if they replace the reluctor ring (with a
Volvo part they've identified), the diff output will match what the computer
expects to see. Cost looks reasonable compared to the other options.

I'm of course concerned that I don't once again get involved in a repair
that won't work properly. Is there a way I can be sure, prior to putting
wrench to car, that this reluctor ring will actually work (i.e.fit) with the
diff presently on the car?

The ideal for me would actually be to get a limited slipdiff or axle that
works with this car, in case anyone just happens to know of one....

Thanks for any comments.
Patrick Keenan
Click to expand...

If they get the right ring, then that will be the fix. However,
changing it does require removal of the carrier, which is a fairly major
job.

--
Mike F.
Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.

NOTE: new address!!
Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly.
(But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.)
 
Mike F said:
If they get the right ring, then that will be the fix. However,
changing it does require removal of the carrier, which is a fairly major
job.
Click to expand...

Thanks for this. Have to ask, though - how are you defining "fairly major"
in this context? How might it be expressed in hourly terms, for example?

Thanks again.
-pk
 
Patrick Keenan said:
components in and (with with

Thanks for this. Have to ask, though - how are you defining "fairly major"
in this context? How might it be expressed in hourly terms, for example?

Thanks again.
-pk
Click to expand...

Well it requires fairly complete disassembly of the rear axel, it'd be best
to ask the shop for a quote, I would assume it to take at least 3 hours for
an experienced mechanic but as with all things, it goes substantially
quicker with all the right tools.
 
James said:
Well it requires fairly complete disassembly of the rear axel, it'd be best
to ask the shop for a quote, I would assume it to take at least 3 hours for
an experienced mechanic but as with all things, it goes substantially
quicker with all the right tools.
Click to expand...

First drain the diff.
You need to remove the rear calipers and rotors, disassemble the parking
brake and pull out the axles.
Then remove the diff cover, put the heavy tool on the housing to expand
the housing, remove the bearing caps and pull out the diff carrier/crown
wheel assembly. Then you can change the reluctor ring, and put it all
back together. 3 hours seems fair, but keep in mind that most "book"
times include lots of fussy setup of clearances and preloads that you
won't need to have done.

--
Mike F.
Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.

NOTE: new address!!
Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly.
(But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.)
 
Mike F said:
First drain the diff.
You need to remove the rear calipers and rotors, disassemble the parking
brake and pull out the axles.
Then remove the diff cover, put the heavy tool on the housing to expand
the housing, remove the bearing caps and pull out the diff carrier/crown
wheel assembly. Then you can change the reluctor ring, and put it all
back together. 3 hours seems fair, but keep in mind that most "book"
times include lots of fussy setup of clearances and preloads that you
won't need to have done.
Click to expand...

Thanks very much for the replies! I will go back to their estimate and see
if it includes that much time - as I said I don't want to get into having
the repair done improperly *again*. I do have some faith in this
particular garage, but this is very reassuring.

There will probably be an amount of "while you're up there" work as well..
bushings and shocks, etc.

Thanks again,
Patrick Keenan
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top