340 petrol

  • Thread starter Thread starter Carl Gibbs
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Carl Gibbs

Hi,

I'm new to this Volvo lark, so apologies for my ignorance!

I've just brought a 1986 340 DL (1.4) and was wondering whether it will
take unleaded petrol? The previous owner reckoned it should run on LRP, but
a tank of unleaded every now and again wouldn't hurt it. Is this right?

Thanks in advance - and expect some more questions in the future :)

Carl
 
I used to stick the green petrol into mine and every 5 tanksfull would lob
in a full tank of red stuff (pump handle colour). OTOH if I forgot and only
put green in she was fine. Recently sold after 9 yrs of fun and work, now
got a 14yr old 440 :~))
 
Carl said:
I've just brought a 1986 340 DL (1.4) and was wondering whether it
will take unleaded petrol?

Ask your preferred Volvo dealer. This issue is documented in Volvo's
"Technical Journal" or something like that. My 1986 360 GL (2.0) takes
all petrol types available in Germany. My 1983 340 (1.4) also did.

Of course you might also have a look into the user's manual ...
 
Lars Trebing said:
Ask your preferred Volvo dealer. This issue is documented in Volvo's
"Technical Journal" or something like that. My 1986 360 GL (2.0) takes
all petrol types available in Germany. My 1983 340 (1.4) also did.

Of course you might also have a look into the user's manual ...
I would if i had one - thats why i posted here - thought someone else may
know or be able to look in a manual :)
 
Carl Gibbs said:
I would if i had one - thats why i posted here - thought someone else may
know or be able to look in a manual :)

Right. There isnt an overly definitive answer to this one- it depends on
which engine you have- B14.1 / .2 / .3 / .4, solex or weber carb, and what
the serial number on the Renix ignition module is. The valve seats are
physically hard enough on the B14.3 and B14.4 engines for unleaded, but with
the wrong ignition unit / carb combination you'll have cronic pinking.

The un-official fix is to go along to Mr Renault and buy the adjustable (as
opposed to Volvo's fixed) crank sensor mounting plate which allows you
to....adjust.. the CAS position thus you can retard the base timing abit.

I would try a tank of optimax or unleaded + octane booster first and see how
you get on.

Tim..
 
Buy your own manual and don't be so tight-fisted. They are only about £13 in
Halfords.

Cheers, Peter.

:
: : > Carl Gibbs wrote:
: >
: > > I've just brought a 1986 340 DL (1.4) and was wondering whether it
: > > will take unleaded petrol?
: >
: > Ask your preferred Volvo dealer. This issue is documented in Volvo's
: > "Technical Journal" or something like that. My 1986 360 GL (2.0) takes
: > all petrol types available in Germany. My 1983 340 (1.4) also did.
: >
: > Of course you might also have a look into the user's manual ...
: >
: I would if i had one - thats why i posted here - thought someone else may
: know or be able to look in a manual :)
:
:
 
Peter Milnes said:
Buy your own manual and don't be so tight-fisted. They are only about £13 in
Halfords.


I only got the car Wednesday FFS. I'm not being tight fisted, i just
thought this might be a friendly newsgroup where i could get some info about
my new car from some friendly volvo experts, evidently not in your case!
 
" Tim (Remove NOSPAM. Registry corupted, reformated HD and lost alot of
stuff :( said:
Right. There isnt an overly definitive answer to this one- it depends on
which engine you have- B14.1 / .2 / .3 / .4, solex or weber carb, and what
the serial number on the Renix ignition module is. The valve seats are
physically hard enough on the B14.3 and B14.4 engines for unleaded, but with
the wrong ignition unit / carb combination you'll have cronic pinking.

The un-official fix is to go along to Mr Renault and buy the adjustable (as
opposed to Volvo's fixed) crank sensor mounting plate which allows you
to....adjust.. the CAS position thus you can retard the base timing abit.

I would try a tank of optimax or unleaded + octane booster first and see how
you get on.

Cheers Tim,
As soon as i get the time i will get under the bonnet and investigate!
 
The problem is nothing to do with friendliness or lack of it. Just an honest
suggestion about a low-cost remedy for your condition ie no manual and a
problem. Most of us tend to get a manual as soon as we purchase the car. It is
the accepted way to prepare yourself for teething troubles with a car that is
new to the owner. If you are serious about owning your car then join a Club that
will cater for your interest in your car and have advice that is available for
perusal.

You might like to consider how you would react in the circumstance you presented
to the group, if you were an experienced car owner of your particular model.

The reply I gave was in the jocular vein and was intended to make you laugh.
However your sense of humour did not match my reply.

Cheers, Peter.

:
: : > Buy your own manual and don't be so tight-fisted. They are only about £13
: in
: > Halfords.
:
:
: I only got the car Wednesday FFS. I'm not being tight fisted, i just
: thought this might be a friendly newsgroup where i could get some info about
: my new car from some friendly volvo experts, evidently not in your case!
:
:
 
Because there's more to the internet than hits alone, Peter Milnes
wrote:

The reply I gave was in the jocular vein and was intended to make you laugh.
However your sense of humour did not match my reply.


The funniest part was where you suggested a manual was only 13 quid!


--

Stewart Hargrave

I run on beans - laser beans


For email, replace 'SpamOnlyToHere' with my name
 
" Tim (Remove NOSPAM. Registry corupted, reformated HD and lost alot of
stuff :( said:
Right. There isnt an overly definitive answer to this one- it depends on
which engine you have- B14.1 / .2 / .3 / .4, solex or weber carb, and what
the serial number on the Renix ignition module is. The valve seats are
physically hard enough on the B14.3 and B14.4 engines for unleaded, but with
the wrong ignition unit / carb combination you'll have cronic pinking.

The un-official fix is to go along to Mr Renault and buy the adjustable (as
opposed to Volvo's fixed) crank sensor mounting plate which allows you
to....adjust.. the CAS position thus you can retard the base timing abit.

I would try a tank of optimax or unleaded + octane booster first and see how
you get on.


Being an 86 car it will be a 14.4 engine, so valves are fine and LRP is no
help atall. This idea of filling up occassionally with LRP (or leaded if
available) is rubbish and almost all volvos do not require lead as a valve
lubricant. Older varijet carbs need a mod so the needles don't wear out
otherwise the 97/98 octane superplus will keep all Volvo running sweet and
torqy.

When leaded was phased out the Volvo web site had a full set of info on all
engines and modifications that could be done.

High Octane is required for a combination of compression ratio and ignition
advance. Older UK 360s have 10:1 ratio and hate 95 octane unleaded,
superplus is the only answer to keep the BHP and torque. Newer BMWs have
10:1 also but have knock sensors and more intelligent ignition computers.

I thought the 1.4 were fairly flexible (lowish compression ratio) and if it
runs ok on 1 or 2 tankfuls of 95 octane unleaded then it will be ok in
future just listen out for pinging and consider the adjustable crank sensor.
Certainly filling up with LRP is not going to do anything, it doesn't even
have 98 octane, in fact it should not be called LRP.
 
Peter Milnes said:
The problem is nothing to do with friendliness or lack of it. Just an honest
suggestion about a low-cost remedy for your condition ie no manual and a
problem. Most of us tend to get a manual as soon as we purchase the car. It is
the accepted way to prepare yourself for teething troubles with a car that is
new to the owner. If you are serious about owning your car then join a Club that
will cater for your interest in your car and have advice that is available for
perusal.

You might like to consider how you would react in the circumstance you presented
to the group, if you were an experienced car owner of your particular model.

The reply I gave was in the jocular vein and was intended to make you laugh.
However your sense of humour did not match my reply.

Cheers, Peter.

Unfortunately sarcasm can sometimes be hard to detect when it is typed!
Which is why a smiley sometimes helps :) So i apologise if i jumped down
your throat.
I simply have not had the time to pick up a manual since getting it, and i
had a 500 mile round trip to do at the weekend so i wanted some quick advice
which i why i came here. Incidently the journey passed wihtout incident
apart from a bit of water somewhere in the ignition system causing problems
on the M6. That was fixed in a matter of minutes though.
 
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