L
Lou Rolls
My 15 yr old 440 lights seem crap compared to modern ones. Whot's the bets
way to upgrade them? More powerful bulbs??
way to upgrade them? More powerful bulbs??
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D
David Balfour
The lights really are quite good, but it's likely that the reflective
coatings have tarnished/fallen off. Sadly there's no way to polish them, the
coating just falls off. Order some more reflective bits from a Volvo parts
supplier (you may have to order the complete unit) then just swap 'em over.
Bigger bulbs can improve them, but there isn't much need. Also, adding the
front spot lights improves things still further.
coatings have tarnished/fallen off. Sadly there's no way to polish them, the
coating just falls off. Order some more reflective bits from a Volvo parts
supplier (you may have to order the complete unit) then just swap 'em over.
Bigger bulbs can improve them, but there isn't much need. Also, adding the
front spot lights improves things still further.
G
Gazz
clean the corrosion off the 15 year old connectors at the bulbs will help a
great deal,
firstly measure the voltage at the headlights with them on.. then at the
battery, i bet there's more than a 1 volt differacne, maybe even 3 or 4
volts in a bad case.
fitting relays at the bulbs can help a lot more than fitting higher powered
bulbs,
great deal,
firstly measure the voltage at the headlights with them on.. then at the
battery, i bet there's more than a 1 volt differacne, maybe even 3 or 4
volts in a bad case.
fitting relays at the bulbs can help a lot more than fitting higher powered
bulbs,
D
Dave Plowman
Also, adding the front spot lights improves things still further.
Most headlights are ok on main beam - it's the dip that is the problem.
And it's not usually legal to have spots which work on dip.
J
James Sweet
Dave Plowman said:Most headlights are ok on main beam - it's the dip that is the problem.
And it's not usually legal to have spots which work on dip.
Just to clarify, are the dip beams the same as what are referred to in north
america as the low beams, and the main beam is what we call the high beams?
Or are there further differences?
As someone else said, check the connectors and the wiring, you'd be amazed
how much brighter the lights are with heavy wires and relays.
R
Rob Guenther
99% sure you have it right, dipped = low and main = high.
In North America I would say the low beam is the main beam, as this is the
one used more often... but this is because their is generally too many cars
on the road to use the highbeams unless you are out in the country.
In North America I would say the low beam is the main beam, as this is the
one used more often... but this is because their is generally too many cars
on the road to use the highbeams unless you are out in the country.
J
James Sweet
Rob Guenther said:99% sure you have it right, dipped = low and main = high.
In North America I would say the low beam is the main beam, as this is the
one used more often... but this is because their is generally too many cars
on the road to use the highbeams unless you are out in the country.
Yeah I use the low beam 99% of the time with just brief bursts of the high
beam, it's rare to drive anywhere with no oncoming cars for any more than a
few seconds at a time unless it's 3am on a back road.
D
Doki
Lou Rolls said:My 15 yr old 440 lights seem crap compared to modern ones. Whot's the bets
way to upgrade them? More powerful bulbs??
Philips Vision Plus bulbs. Get them cheap at a Ford dealer's parts desks.
Bulbs get dimmer with age, and the Philips ones are brighter than standard
new bulbs, so you should notice a decent difference. Expect to pay £15 to
£20 for a pair.
L
Lou Rolls
thankyou all, will peep into my light situation this weekend.
C
CampinGazz
Doki said:Philips Vision Plus bulbs. Get them cheap at a Ford dealer's parts desks.
Bulbs get dimmer with age,
And halogen bulbs especialy get dimmer when they are run on a lower voltage
than they are rated for, so check the voltage at the headlights before
spending any money,
halogen bulbs need to run at their set temperature to work properly, in
order to deposit some of the gasses and things back onto the fillament and
not onto the bulb's glass (check google for the specific terms), and the
only way for them to run at the proper temperature is to run them at the
intended voltage.. which is 13.8 to 14.4 volts ,
you should see that voltage at the battery terminals with the engine
running, but i'll bet you get nearer 11 to 12 volts at the headlights bulbs
with them on and the engine still running, that's voltage drop caused by the
connectors oxidising over the years.. all copper does that, and guess what
the wires and connectors are made of... yup..copper, and oxidised copper is
a poor conductor, so your wasting voltage in the wires and connectors that
should be making the lights brighter, but instead are just heating the wires
up.
Half the time just unplugging and re-plugging the connectors can cleam them
enough to give an improvement in the bulbs brightness, it costs nothing to
try that,
yes the xeon bulbs are brighter than standard halogens, but imagine how much
brighter they'd be if you sorted the poor wiring out to the headlights
before fitting them.