740 pinion seal

  • Thread starter Thread starter newtovolvo
  • Start date Start date
N

newtovolvo

I was ready to do this yesterday. Did some research at brickboard
and figured I had all the info and tools and the replacement seal
to get it done.

I never expected the label on the differential housing would be missing!
I removed what little undercoating was there just in case it was a small
label, most undercoating is long gone to rust.
There is no label to read. Help!

Is there any other way to determine if my car has a compression sleeve or
not? From what I have read there is a big torque difference on the nut when
putting this back together again. I have read that if my car has the
compression sleeve it needs 49 ft-lbs on the nut. If it is the no sleeve
type it needs 148 ft-lbs. I am at a loss on how to proceed.
Thanks for all replies.

p.s. Is a new nut just a "be safe" thing, or a strongly advised item to do?
I sure do want to have a failure because of a nut.
 
I was ready to do this yesterday. Did some research at brickboard
and figured I had all the info and tools and the replacement seal
to get it done.

I never expected the label on the differential housing would be
missing! I removed what little undercoating was there just in case it
was a small label, most undercoating is long gone to rust.
There is no label to read. Help!

Is there any other way to determine if my car has a compression sleeve
or not? From what I have read there is a big torque difference on the
nut when putting this back together again. I have read that if my car
has the compression sleeve it needs 49 ft-lbs on the nut. If it is the
no sleeve type it needs 148 ft-lbs. I am at a loss on how to proceed.
Thanks for all replies.

p.s. Is a new nut just a "be safe" thing, or a strongly advised item
to do? I sure do want to have a failure because of a nut.

Forgot to add - this is a 90 model year with an 8 valve engine, non turbo.
 

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