740 Turbo OD Solenoid

  • Thread starter Thread starter Katrina
  • Start date Start date
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Katrina

Just got finished replacing the O/D Solenoid in my '89 740 Turbo. No
change, still can't go faster than 52mph or it will go to 3K rpm's.
Checked the relay (#12), and it is intact. What now? Replace the Trans.
fluid filter?
 
Katrina said:
Just got finished replacing the O/D Solenoid in my '89 740 Turbo. No
change, still can't go faster than 52mph or it will go to 3K rpm's.
Checked the relay (#12), and it is intact. What now? Replace the Trans.
fluid filter?
Click to expand...


The wiring often fails at about the same time as the relay and/or
solenoid. Check the run of wire, especially from the relay to the
solenoid.
--







http://freevision.org/michael/index.html
 
And the switch on the gearlever if the arrow (light) on the instrument panel
doesn't go on and off with the switch operation without relay clicking.

All the best, Peter.

700/900/90 Register Keeper,
Volvo Owners Club (UK).
 
Katrina said:
Just got finished replacing the O/D Solenoid in my '89 740 Turbo. No
change, still can't go faster than 52mph or it will go to 3K rpm's.
Checked the relay (#12), and it is intact. What now? Replace the Trans.
fluid filter?
Click to expand...

What's wrong with it going past 3K? OD was an option in the early 240s, they
could cruise all day at 70, just a bit noisy and poor fuel economy.

Is this a manual or automatic? Are you sure you're getting power to the
solenoid?
 
UPDATE 10-12-05: Halfway in to work today, the top gear kicked in! It
works!
Now all I need are new rear tires and the light on the dash tells me
I've got a bulb out somewhere...
 
Katrina said:
UPDATE 10-12-05: Halfway in to work today, the top gear kicked in! It
works!
Now all I need are new rear tires and the light on the dash tells me
I've got a bulb out somewhere...
Click to expand...

Have you resoldered the relay? If it kicked in halfway to work I suspect
it'll stop working later.
 
Boy, were you ever right! It didn't work on the way home from the
office on the 12th, and it hasn't worked at all this morning, both on
the 45-minute drive to drop my dog off at the Vet, and then another
45-minutes to my office. Grr...Thanks for the tip, I'll look at that
relay.
 
Katrina said:
Boy, were you ever right! It didn't work on the way home from the
office on the 12th, and it hasn't worked at all this morning, both on
the 45-minute drive to drop my dog off at the Vet, and then another
45-minutes to my office. Grr...Thanks for the tip, I'll look at that
relay.
Click to expand...

Pull it out and pop the cover off it, look on the bottom of the circuit
board, you'll almost certainly see obvious cracking in the soldering where
the socket pins attach.
 
I'm looking at the circuit board now, it's green and nothing like the
orange ones I've seen posted on brickboard where they illustrate how
they resoldered the joints.
Most of the trails on there seem to be under the green layer and not
accessible on the top.
(Excuse my non-techie jargon, I'm new to the DIY car repair world but
I'm really enjoying it!)
Hubby looked at the circuit board and didn't notice anything out of the
ordinary either.
Do we just plop some more solder on top of what's there and hope for
the best?
 
Katrina said:
I'm looking at the circuit board now, it's green and nothing like the
orange ones I've seen posted on brickboard where they illustrate how
they resoldered the joints.
Most of the trails on there seem to be under the green layer and not
accessible on the top.
(Excuse my non-techie jargon, I'm new to the DIY car repair world but
I'm really enjoying it!)
Hubby looked at the circuit board and didn't notice anything out of the
ordinary either.
Do we just plop some more solder on top of what's there and hope for
the best?
Click to expand...

The green coating over the traces is called a solder mask, it prevents
solder from going all over the place and keeps it right on the joints.
Soldering takes some practice to do well but it's not too hard. You want to
heat up the joint with the tip of the soldering iron until the existing
solder liquifies, then feed in a bit of fresh solder, but not so much that
it makes a big ball. If it gets out of control there's a few tricks you can
use to remove the solder from a joint and start over.

Oh, make sure you use rosin core solder, the acid core stuff for plumbing
will ruin it.
 
James Sweet said:
The green coating over the traces is called a solder mask, it prevents
solder from going all over the place and keeps it right on the joints.
Soldering takes some practice to do well but it's not too hard. You want to
heat up the joint with the tip of the soldering iron until the existing
solder liquifies, then feed in a bit of fresh solder, but not so much that
it makes a big ball. If it gets out of control there's a few tricks you can
use to remove the solder from a joint and start over.

Oh, make sure you use rosin core solder, the acid core stuff for plumbing
will ruin it.
Click to expand...

Katrina,

if you are a novice solderer talke a look at this:
http://w6rec.com/duane/bmw/solder/



__ __
Randy & \ \/ /alerie's
\__/olvos
'90 245 Estate - '93 965 Estate
"Shelby" & "Kate"
 
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