850 Starter goes "Click"

  • Thread starter Thread starter Bob Sisson
  • Start date Start date
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Bob Sisson

Had the same problem last year...

They replaced a ground wire, the starter, the Battery, and basically they
didn't find anything as the absolute cause.

Symptom...

Randomly, you go to start the car, you here the starter solinoid go "Click"
but the engine doesn't turn at all, as if something isn't quite fully
engaged.

Sometimes a few more tries and it will kick in, and spin/start at full speed
and start right up. It never starts "HARD" it ether STARTS or it goes
CLICK, nothing in between.

I now carry a "Booster" pack, that SEEMS to make a difference, but so does
opening the hood, wiggling the connections (They are tight) or just cursing
for a while. When its ready it will turn and start.

H E L P !!

Bob Sisson
'95 GLT 850
 
Bob Sisson said:
Had the same problem last year...

They replaced a ground wire, the starter, the Battery, and basically they
didn't find anything as the absolute cause.

Symptom...

Randomly, you go to start the car, you here the starter solinoid go "Click"
but the engine doesn't turn at all, as if something isn't quite fully
engaged.

Sometimes a few more tries and it will kick in, and spin/start at full speed
and start right up. It never starts "HARD" it ether STARTS or it goes
CLICK, nothing in between.

I now carry a "Booster" pack, that SEEMS to make a difference, but so does
opening the hood, wiggling the connections (They are tight) or just cursing
for a while. When its ready it will turn and start.
Click to expand...


Did the starter come with a new solenoid?

A dirty or ill-fitting battery clamp will do this. use some 80 grit
and sand the INSIDE area of the positive cable battery clamp until it
is clean, shiny, silver-colored lead (or brass) and not the dull grey.

Check the positive cable when it happens and see if it feels warm- or
warmer anywhere along its length than in other areas. Cables can look
fine on the outside and be damaged or corroded inside. Pull the
related fuses and make sure that they are clean (a stretch). If the
car has a fusible link check that. I had one go on a Chevy and it
drove me nuts till I figured it out!

When it happens at night, try letting someone else start it while you
watch under the hood. Watch the battery, but always wear safety
goggles when working around the battery. Have them hold the key in teh
start position while you wiggle the related wiring (battery cables and
starter wires.

__ __
Randy & \ \/ /alerie's
\__/olvo
'93 960 Estate
 
When it happens at night, try letting someone else start it while you
watch under the hood. Watch the battery, but always wear safety
goggles when working around the battery. Have them hold the key in teh
start position while you wiggle the related wiring (battery cables and
starter wires.
Click to expand...

Good advice. If the solenoid is clicking then the regular ignition system
is getting power just fine. The starter has its own wire that runs
straight from the battery so that would be something to look at. If you're
going to replace the starter yourself then you're going to be down there
unhooking all of that stuff anyways so no harm in disconnecting the wire
and scraping the contact surfaces with a pen knife or something at least.

If that doesn't work then it could be a problem that the starter is just
going bad. The windings are dipped in electrical varnish and eventually it
can break down and develop some shorts. When the car is hot you will find
that a failing starter will tend to not work. Let it cool a bit and it
works again. If this is you then just replace it with a new one.
 
Oops, forgot to mention. The solenoid itself, like Randy G says, could be
the culprit. I don't understand the deal with aftermarket starters, but
from my experience 1 in 2 is defective.

The solenoid has two main functions. It kicks the starters pinion gear out
on the splines so that it engages with the flywheel (click), and then it
acts like a massive relay to energize the starter windings (zweeee), thus
cranking your engine block.

When you turn the key, your normal car power sends a 12v signal to the
solenoid which activates it, much like a common relay.

Sounds like the "energize the windings" function isn't working reliably.
 
Douglas said:
Oops, forgot to mention. The solenoid itself, like Randy G says, could be
the culprit. I don't understand the deal with aftermarket starters, but
from my experience 1 in 2 is defective.

The solenoid has two main functions. It kicks the starters pinion gear out
on the splines so that it engages with the flywheel (click), and then it
acts like a massive relay to energize the starter windings (zweeee), thus
cranking your engine block.

When you turn the key, your normal car power sends a 12v signal to the
solenoid which activates it, much like a common relay.

Sounds like the "energize the windings" function isn't working reliably.
Click to expand...

The OP did mention that the starter was replaced.

The solenoid can be energized but not have the "oomph" to pull the
Bendix(?) drive far enough to close the electrical contacts to
energize the starter motor. I think the rebuilt Volvo starters would
come with a solenoid, but I do not know this car specifically. And
yes, it is possible to get a bad starter new.

I also wonder about the engine ground. The motor should have a strap
somewhere attached from the block to the frame or body. I would remove
it and clean both the mounting lugs on the strap as well as the
mounting points on the car.

I would guess the same as you- since the click happens it is a matter
of either there is not enough current being supplied to the starter
and solenoid or the solenoid is bad.

__ __
Randy & \ \/ /alerie's
\__/olvo
'93 960 Estate
 
I would guess the same as you- since the click happens it is a matter
of either there is not enough current being supplied to the starter
and solenoid or the solenoid is bad.
Click to expand...

Yeah, the Bendix is that little pinion gear in the nosecone off the
starter. It could be a bad ground, internal short, or even a friction
problem.

Take it back to whoever fixed it and demand warranty repair. They should
replace it again for no charge if they are reputable. Tell them that you
think the starter they put in was defective.
 
Douglas said:
Yeah, the Bendix is that little pinion gear in the nosecone off the
starter. It could be a bad ground, internal short, or even a friction
problem.
Click to expand...

I wasn't sure about this car as some use a centrifugal device and some
use a sprague clutch.
__ __
Randy & \ \/ /alerie's
\__/olvo
'93 960 Estate
 
Yeah, the Bendix is that little pinion gear in the nosecone off the
starter.
Click to expand...

Well yes, but not in this case. I doubt that Bedix gear is used on any
current prodution car. Pre-engage starters are the norm these days.

Thirty or more years ago Bendix gear was more common - it caused the
starter pinion to engage in the flywheel by inertia; the pinion was
weighted, and ran on a steep helix on the end of the starter armature.
When the starter was activated, the heavy pinion would ride to the end
of the helix, engaging in the flywheel, before it started turning.
When the engine fired, it would turn faster than the starter motor,
and the pinion would be thrown back along the helix, out of
engagement.

Usual problems were a stuck pinion at either end of its travel, and it
was not uncommon to see people rocking their cars back and forth, or
whacking the starter with a lump of wood, trying to un-jam the pinion.

From time to time you hear people referring to any starter pinion as
Bendix gear, but this is not strictly correct.
--

Stewart Hargrave


For email, replace 'SpamOnlyToHere' with my name
 
Sounds like a sticky starter motor, try tapping the starter motor with a
hammer/screwdriver the next time it happens.

If its a manual you can put it in 4th and rock the car to free up.
 
I had a similar problem with a (non-Volvo) car a few years ago - and it
turned out to be a faulty ignition switch.

In an emergency, I could start my engine by turning on the ignition and then
using a stout piece of (insulated!) wire to bridge between the battery and
starter solenoid. Not recommended if you don't know what you're doing
though!
 
Hi Bob,

If the starter motor has a dead spot (bad windings) then this could happen
periodically, depending on the stopping position of the starter motor.

It would help to know if the car starts better hot than cold or the other
way around. Does weather play a role (rain, high humidity, etc).

If the battery checks out strong, and the wiring from the solenoid to the
starter is good, then most likely the starter itself has a defective spot on
the motor windings.

Cheers,
Scott
 
Two Starters later the dealer said it was fixed...

The dealer said they never had two bad starters in a row...

All I know is I hate remanufactured parts... and things like starters you
can;t get new, they ALL are rebuilt, even if they are OEM...

Luckily, both starters, and the labor, and the rental car, were under
Warranty of the first starter...


Bob Sisson
1995 850 GLT
 
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