86 740 2 part hub conversion

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Hi folks, subject car is 1986 740 Turbo Intercooler.

It still has the 1 piece rotor, and I need to convert to 2 piece.
I have a frozen caliper, and don't want to spend money on the old setup.

I have a 1988 740 GLE for parts. My plan is to remove the hubs from
the 88 and put them on the 86.

Will they fit?

What can I expect during the conversion, and do I need additional parts
other than the spindle nut and new cap?

Do I remove everything from the 86 including the inner race, and then
the
2 piece hub from the 88 just slips on?

Also, I read the brickboard stuff on the hubs, and I'm confused about
what it says about a race slipping out of the hub, and you have to put
it
back and then hold it somehow during installation....????? Can someone
translate that or expand on that for me?

I'll also be doing the jumbo brake upgrade....

thanks much, Glenn
 
/g said:
Hi folks, subject car is 1986 740 Turbo Intercooler.

It still has the 1 piece rotor, and I need to convert to 2 piece.
I have a frozen caliper, and don't want to spend money on the old setup.

I have a 1988 740 GLE for parts. My plan is to remove the hubs from
the 88 and put them on the 86.

Will they fit?

What can I expect during the conversion, and do I need additional parts
other than the spindle nut and new cap?

Do I remove everything from the 86 including the inner race, and then
the
2 piece hub from the 88 just slips on?

Also, I read the brickboard stuff on the hubs, and I'm confused about
what it says about a race slipping out of the hub, and you have to put
it
back and then hold it somehow during installation....????? Can someone
translate that or expand on that for me?

I'll also be doing the jumbo brake upgrade....

thanks much, Glenn

As I recall, 1988 has a larger spindle and different hub design, so if
that's the case you will need to swap the whole strut assemblies. Pop
the cap off the '88 and see if it has a castle nut with a cotter pin or
the later style locknut.

The older style has a conventional wheel bearing that you pack with
grease and assemble. The later type uses ball bearings permanently
mounted in the hub assemblies.
 
James Sweet said:
As I recall, 1988 has a larger spindle and different hub design, so if
that's the case you will need to swap the whole strut assemblies. Pop the
cap off the '88 and see if it has a castle nut with a cotter pin or the
later style locknut.

The older style has a conventional wheel bearing that you pack with grease
and assemble. The later type uses ball bearings permanently mounted in the
hub assemblies.

The 86 Turbo has the old style 1 piece hub with adjustable/packable
bearings.

The 88 parts car has the new style 2 piece hub.

I want to put the 88 hub on the 86. If the spindle is different, then
no, the 88 part won't fit.

I was hoping that things didn't change that much between years.
I'll be tearing things down today and take a look.

thanks, /glenn
 
/g said:
The 86 Turbo has the old style 1 piece hub with adjustable/packable
bearings.

The 88 parts car has the new style 2 piece hub.

I want to put the 88 hub on the 86. If the spindle is different, then
no, the 88 part won't fit.

I was hoping that things didn't change that much between years.
I'll be tearing things down today and take a look.

thanks, /glenn


There are three different hub designs. There is the old one piece hub
with the bearing races pressed into the hub which is part of the brake
rotor. Then there is the updated hub with the bearing races pressed into
a hub which is separate from the brake rotor, then there is the newest
design starting in '88 or '89 in which the bearings are ball bearing
units permanently installed in the hub which fits on a larger spindle.
If your parts car has the original separate hub/brake assemblies that
fit on the older spindle with conventional bearings then it's a straight
swap.
 
James Sweet said:
There are three different hub designs. There is the old one piece hub with
the bearing races pressed into the hub which is part of the brake rotor.
Then there is the updated hub with the bearing races pressed into a hub
which is separate from the brake rotor, then there is the newest design
starting in '88 or '89 in which the bearings are ball bearing units
permanently installed in the hub which fits on a larger spindle. If your
parts car has the original separate hub/brake assemblies that fit on the
older spindle with conventional bearings then it's a straight swap.

Excellent! That's the type of distinction I was looking for. I'll pull
the hub
off the parts car and see what bearings are in it.

I did hit the 'yards this morning, and no older 740's around. I called
the
dealer and list is $145 each for the conversion hubs. I get a discount, so
I'll
pay a bit less than that if I go with the dealer. I have a couple of other
options
that I've run across that I need to check.

Thanks for the info. /glenn
 
/g said:
Excellent! That's the type of distinction I was looking for. I'll pull
the hub
off the parts car and see what bearings are in it.

I did hit the 'yards this morning, and no older 740's around. I called
the
dealer and list is $145 each for the conversion hubs. I get a discount, so
I'll
pay a bit less than that if I go with the dealer. I have a couple of other
options
that I've run across that I need to check.

Thanks for the info. /glenn


Screw the dealer, the only time I ever set foot in there is when I need
a part that is absolutely not available anywhere else. FCP Groton,
alloemvolvoparts.com and one other that escapes me at the moment are
where I get most of my parts.
 
James Sweet said:
Screw the dealer, the only time I ever set foot in there is when I need a
part that is absolutely not available anywhere else. FCP Groton,
alloemvolvoparts.com and one other that escapes me at the moment are where
I get most of my parts.

I've got a bit more information and another question. When I talked
with the dealer
a while ago, I got the part number for the hub that's used in the
conversion. It is
3516126, and costs about $140. In looking for a better price on that I
found an
alternative part on the swedish auto parts site. That part number is
3516128 and
costs about $65.

The description gives the 128 number as used with vented rotors. The
126 is used
with vented rotors but says Girling (for the caliper?).

http://www.swedishautoparts.com/740/Volvo-740-wheel-bearings-and-studs-and-hubs.html

Can anyone tell me what the difference is between the two parts? I'll
try to call swedish if I
have time tomorrow.

My intention is to use one of the above hubs with the jumbo brake
conversion, using rotors
and calipers intended for a 92 to 95 940. I believe those calipers are
girling.

thanks again for any help, /glenn
 
I've got a bit more information and another question. When I talked
with the dealer
a while ago, I got the part number for the hub that's used in the
conversion. It is
3516126, and costs about $140. In looking for a better price on that I
found an
alternative part on the swedish auto parts site. That part number is
3516128 and
costs about $65.

The description gives the 128 number as used with vented rotors. The
126 is used
with vented rotors but says Girling (for the caliper?).

http://www.swedishautoparts.com/740/Volvo-740-wheel-bearings-and-studs-and-hubs.html

Can anyone tell me what the difference is between the two parts? I'll
try to call swedish if I
have time tomorrow.

My intention is to use one of the above hubs with the jumbo brake
conversion, using rotors
and calipers intended for a 92 to 95 940. I believe those calipers are
girling.

thanks again for any help, /glenn


It looks like that might be the whole hub and spindle assembly, not
sure, I've never tried to remove the spindle to see if that's what it
looks like.

The wheel bearings for the older style hub look like 271703, and the
later style hub with the integral bearings looks like 271645. My car has
ABS, so that may be part of the confusion here.

I recently had to replace the hubs on mine which came from a 1989 model
as I recall, and the ABS tone wheels were not the same, I had to remove
the wheels from the old hubs (ended up having to bore out the hub in a
lathe to get them off intact) and then press them onto the new hubs.
 
...........previous messages cut ...................

So, 2 months later, and I think I found a better solution.

The conversion part was dealer only, for $140 per side. The $65 part is
obsolete, no longer available.

I finally found time to talk to the folks at a local 'yard, and he
offered a
full strut with rotor and caliper for $50 per side, or $100 total. I walked
the
yard, and found a 92 960 with what appears to be brand new rotors and pads.
Not sure how old the calipers are, but I'm hoping they were replaced at the
same time. I pulled them last saturday, now I just need to install them.

The car getting these is a turbo and I had replaced the strut inserts
with KYB's,
so I'll transfer those and the springs from the turbo onto the new struts,
and I should
be all set from that point. Other than an alignment.

Thanks for the help, /glenn
 
/g said:
...........previous messages cut ...................

So, 2 months later, and I think I found a better solution.

The conversion part was dealer only, for $140 per side. The $65 part is
obsolete, no longer available.

I finally found time to talk to the folks at a local 'yard, and he
offered a
full strut with rotor and caliper for $50 per side, or $100 total. I walked
the
yard, and found a 92 960 with what appears to be brand new rotors and pads.
Not sure how old the calipers are, but I'm hoping they were replaced at the
same time. I pulled them last saturday, now I just need to install them.

The car getting these is a turbo and I had replaced the strut inserts
with KYB's,
so I'll transfer those and the springs from the turbo onto the new struts,
and I should
be all set from that point. Other than an alignment.

Thanks for the help, /glenn


If you have ABS on your car, make sure the tone wheels on the hubs are
the same, they used at least two different types, one having many more
teeth than the other. I don't know for certain, but I don't believe they
are compatible.
 
James Sweet said:
If you have ABS on your car, make sure the tone wheels on the hubs are the
same, they used at least two different types, one having many more teeth
than the other. I don't know for certain, but I don't believe they are
compatible.

Thanks James. Nope, non ABS. And, being old-school, that's fine with
me.
Less crap to fail...........

/glenn
 
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