88 240, location of AT OD solenoid

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Raymond Cruz

I need to verify the location of the OD solenoid on my 88 240 AT wagon. I
found a wire that is routed from the right rear of the trans in the area of
the fluid pan and drain, over the top to the left rear, and terminating at
the top of a vertical cylindrical structure secured by two bolts to the left
of the fluid pan. I assume this cylindrical structure is the solenoid. I
didn't see any significant deterioration of the wire.

Over a period of about 10 days the car completely lost 4th gear. The
transmission, including fluid quality and level, seems fine otherwise. At
first the problem was intermittent. The dashboard arrow always goes on and
off with the gearshift switch. From what I could glean from old NG articles
I assume this means the relay is good. My idea is to check whether voltage
to the solenoid goes on and off with the switch and if so I will assume the
solenoid needs replacing. Is this a reasonable strategy?
 
Raymond Cruz said:
I need to verify the location of the OD solenoid on my 88 240 AT wagon. I
found a wire that is routed from the right rear of the trans in the area of
the fluid pan and drain, over the top to the left rear, and terminating at
the top of a vertical cylindrical structure secured by two bolts to the left
of the fluid pan. I assume this cylindrical structure is the solenoid. I
didn't see any significant deterioration of the wire.
Click to expand...

Yep that's the solenoid.

Over a period of about 10 days the car completely lost 4th gear. The
transmission, including fluid quality and level, seems fine otherwise. At
first the problem was intermittent. The dashboard arrow always goes on and
off with the gearshift switch. From what I could glean from old NG articles
I assume this means the relay is good. My idea is to check whether voltage
to the solenoid goes on and off with the switch and if so I will assume the
solenoid needs replacing. Is this a reasonable strategy?
Click to expand...

If you have voltage at that wire then the solenoid is getting power. If
that's the case, remove it and try blowing through it before you replace it,
a new one is expensive, I think I have a good used one somewhere you can
have cheap though.
 
Raymond,

Before you remove the solenoid, inspect the wiring from the solenoid back
toward the gear shifter housing. It runs over the top of the transmission,
and often is bouncing around on top of the hot transmission. This heat,
along with normal road debris splashing up, has likely worn insulation loose
from the wires, causing a short to ground whenever the wire touches the
transmission.

You'll probably want to use one of those small dentist mirrors on a wand,
and a flash light to view the wire above the tranny.

This same problem happened to me a month ago. When I wrote to this group, I
got a few responses to check the wire before replacing the solenoid. After
repairing the wire, I covered it with a section of that accordian-type
protector that you can get at pep boys and autozone.

Pat
 
There is a short wire coming from the gear shift housing mated via a plastic
connector to a longer wire that goes over the gear shift housing to the
solenoid. I'd like to separate the wires at the connector but I can't quite
get hand or tool on the connector. After fussing a while it occurred to me
that if I moved the wires and connector to the left side I might better be
able to unlatch the connector. Indeed the connector is now closer to my
reach but not quite enough to get a good hold. Any hints as to how I can
separate the connector? If I start taking apart the shift lever switch will
I be able to feed more of the wire through the floor so the connector will
drop within my reach? Also, do I squeeze or pry apart the tabs on the
connector?

In shifting the wires to the left it was very interesting to see that a much
shorter and less obstructed routing that does not place the wire over the
top of the hot transmission housing resulted. The only caveat is that the
wire is in close quarters with the shift lever linkage on this side but it
seems as if the wire could be secured to not touch or interfere with the
linkage. Doesn't it make sense to leave the wire routed this way?

RC
 
Raymond,

I had the same notion that the factory routing was longer, and your thought
that it secured it away from the shift linkage seems likely.

When I re-assembled mine, I covered the wire and the connector with the
protective accordian shield, so I can't see if there are any locking tabs or
not. On my old solenoid, the opening of the connector has a small lip,
about the right size to hold a spring clip that snaps over the lip during
insertion of the connectors. I believe a firm grip on each side of the
connector, and some counter-twisting to separate will let you pull the
connectors apart. You might even use some pliers or grip-lock pliers, tight
enough to hold but not tight enough to crush.

Were you able to inspect the wiring that is just laying loose on top of the
transmission? You probably need a small mirror on an extender. When I
looked at mine, there was a 3 inch section that had no insulation, and the
live wire was completely exposed, touching the metal trans housing.

Pat
 
James,
This reply also acknowledges Pat Quadlander's 2 messages in this thread that
were very helpful. I unhinged the shift linkage and that gave me better
access to the electrical connector which I was able to take apart. I found
that with the ignition switch on and the OD light off there was 12 volts at
the connector and when I pressed the OD switch such that the OD arrow was
on, there was no voltage. I assume these are the right states although I
wonder why it was not designed for the reverse states since that would have
provided a friendlier failure mode, i.e. solenoid failure would only mean
4th gear could not be locked out. I then removed the solenoid and found
that the rubber cap at one end was partly rotted away. I'm not sure that
the wiring at that end is still sound so I think the next step is to replace
the solenoid. I'm interested in your offer to sell me a cheap working one.
I found that FCP Groton sells them for $95 so hopefully yours is a lot less
:-). Please let me know ASAP so I can begin to get this car together.
Reply to [email protected] except change "3e" to "eee".

One unrelated question -- I decoupled the shift linkage by popping off a
snap ring that held a short shaft inside a hole on a metal plate. The hole
diameter is much larger that the shaft diameter so I think there probably
should be a bushing to take up the extra space. Anyone know what kind of
bushing belongs there? I might be able to find one made of nylon or brass
at my local hardware store.

RC
 
James,
This reply also acknowledges Pat Quadlander's 2 messages in this thread that
were very helpful. I unhinged the shift linkage and that gave me better
access to the electrical connector which I was able to take apart. I found
that with the ignition switch on and the OD light off there was 12 volts at
the connector and when I pressed the OD switch such that the OD arrow was
on, there was no voltage. I assume these are the right states although I
wonder why it was not designed for the reverse states since that would have
provided a friendlier failure mode, i.e. solenoid failure would only mean
4th gear could not be locked out. I then removed the solenoid and found
that the rubber cap at one end was partly rotted away. I'm not sure that
the wiring at that end is still sound so I think the next step is to replace
the solenoid. I'm interested in your offer to sell me a cheap working one.
I found that FCP Groton sells them for $95 so hopefully yours is a lot less
:-). Please let me know ASAP so I can begin to get this car together.
Reply to [email protected] except change "3e" to "eee".

One unrelated question -- I decoupled the shift linkage by popping off a
snap ring that held a short shaft inside a hole on a metal plate. The hole
diameter is much larger that the shaft diameter so I think there probably
should be a bushing to take up the extra space. Anyone know what kind of
bushing belongs there? I might be able to find one made of nylon or brass
at my local hardware store.

RC
 
[email protected] says... said:
One unrelated question -- I decoupled the shift linkage by popping off a
snap ring that held a short shaft inside a hole on a metal plate. The hole
diameter is much larger that the shaft diameter so I think there probably
should be a bushing to take up the extra space. Anyone know what kind of
bushing belongs there? I might be able to find one made of nylon or brass
at my local hardware store.
Click to expand...

Almost every Volvo dealer has them. They are cheap. Replace both the
front and rear ones.

Bob
 
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