It doesn't cause additional drain, it prevents current flow so that everything
downstream of the Battery seems dead. I had a very similar thing with an
automatic MGF just before Christmas.
Cheers, Peter.
: Peter,
:
: I'm trying to understand this . . . why does a loose connection
: cause an additional drain on the battery?
:
: Thanks,
:
: Jim Kelly
:
:
: : | This is most likely to be a loose connection from the +ve busbar
: inside the car
: | at top of bulkhead just under top of dashboard, or your +ve
: battery terminal is
: | loose. Check also for one of the feeds (you say there are six)
: from the battery
: | terminal with about one strand hanging on for dear life. If the
: battery goes
: | dead whilst car is in motion then you need a new battery as it may
: well have
: | enough sludge in the bottom to short out a cell or two, however it
: is very rare
: | for a battery to fail in this way, so best to check for loose
: connections as
: | mentioned above.
: |
: | Of course, there will be those who say damned Italian electricians
: (780s were
: | assembled in Italy).
: |
: | Cheers, Peter.
: |
: | : | : Hi,
: | : Try your luck on the central locking system. I 've had this
: problem with
: | : several Volvos in the past and every time it was in this system.
: Water in
: | : the doors canb do the harm. Sometimes it will do when you drive
: about
: | : 40miles and make the car very hot inside. This will dry the
: doors.
: | :
: | :
: | : "don hodgdon" <
[email protected]> schreef in bericht
: | : : | : > Copied from the Brickboard FAQ:
: | : >
: | :
:
http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/ElectricalStarting.htm#Slow Battery%
: | : > 20Discharge
: | : >
: | : > Slow Battery Discharge. [Query:] I am having an electrical
: problem with
: | : my
: | : > Volvo. About two months ago the battery went dead--slowly
: over time. It
: | : > was an old battery, so I though nothing of it and replaced it.
: All was
: | : good
: | : > for a month and a half, then it went dead again. With the
: car running I
: | : > measured 14volts across the terminals of the battery (12 when
: stopped) and
: | : > 14v off the main positive lead of the alternator. What is the
: problem
: | : here?
: | : > [Battery Drain Diagnostics: Response: Ross Gunn] To check to
: see if
: | : there
: | : > is something draining the battery while the key is off, remove
: the pos
: | : > battery terminal, and with an ammeter, measure to see if there
: is any
: | : > current flowing from the battery to the cable. If there is
: anything more
: | : > than a couple of milliamps, try removing fuses one at a time
: to see if you
: | : > can identify the circuit that is causing the drain. If this
: pins down a
: | : > problem, a little more sleuthing through the offending circuit
: should tell
: | : > you what needs to be done.
: | : > If there is no drain showing with the above test, the charging
: system is
: | : > suspect. Try measuring the voltage at the alternator output
: terminal and
: | : > battery pos terminal with all utilities (headlights, rear
: window heater,
: | : > fan etc.) on high. Any difference in reading indicates a poor
: connection
: | : > somewhere in the red cable from the alternator. Don't assume
: that a crimp
: | : > connection of a terminal on the cable is good. Corrosion can
: introduce
: | : > enough resistance to prevent proper (any?) charging when there
: is a
: | : > significant load on the system (cold, dark, wet/snowy winter
: evenings). I
: | : > have experienced this on a 20 year old Brick.
: | : >
: | : > [Battery Drain Diagnostics: Chris Bowne] I agree with Ross
: Gunn that the
: | : > best way to trouble shoot a discharging battery is to find the
: source with
: | : > the engine shut down and a multimeter (set to measure DC
: current) in
: | : series
: | : > with the positive battery terminal lead. Other places to
: check besides
: | : the
: | : > fuse block for drain paths are the alternator and voltage
: regulator (if
: | : not
: | : > internal to the alternator).
: | : > Disconnect/reconnect the connections on them, one at a time,
: and monitor
: | : for
: | : > drain. I had a problem on a Ford Taurus once where the voltage
: regulator
: | : had
: | : > shorted, and was the cause of the drain. You may or may not
: find a source
: | : of
: | : > a drain like this merely by pulling fuses. In fact, you could
: end up with
: | : > all the fuses pulled, and still have the drain, like I did!
: | : > Someone on an earlier posting of this thread mentioned
: checking to see if
: | : > his alternator was providing output by lifting the battery +
: terminal
: | : > connection WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING. DO NOT DO THIS! Many solid
: state
: | : > regulators will be damaged/destroyed by this condition. (And
: in turn may
: | : > compound the causes of the battery drain you are
: troubleshooting!)
: | : >
: | : > Battery Drain Tips. [Tip from JohnB] Check the specific
: gravity of the
: | : > cells...if they're accessible.
: | : > With a fully charged battery, either from your battery charger
: or the
: | : > alternator, disconnect the battery and measure the voltage,
: measure it
: | : again
: | : > 12 hours later and it should be virtually the same, maybe .1v
: less, no
: | : more.
: | : > Reconnect the battery to the car and turn on the headlights on
: full bright
: | : > for 10 minutes and every accessory in the car...if the battery
: dies in 10
: | : > minutes replace the battery. Otherwise, battery voltage should
: remain
: | : above
: | : > 10.5 volts or so after this test. There are load testers
: available in auto
: | : > parts stores for about $30 or so that will do a higher load
: test (couple
: | : > hundred amps through a resistance load bank) in about 10-30
: seconds
: | : against
: | : > a red/bad yellow/weak green/good voltage scale.
: | : > If these tests still have you with a good battery, then you
: just have to
: | : > trace down the current drain, circuit by circuit.
: | : >
: | : > Good luck,
: | : >
: | : > --
: | : > -don
: | : >
: | : > '81 242t
: | : > '89 744ti
: | : >
: | : >
: | : >
: | : > : | : > > Still having the same problem. I do have the Green Book, for
: wiring.
: | : > > And some non-auto electrical knowledge.
: | : > > I guess I can start taking one of the wires off the
: possitive battery
: | : > > terminal. The 780 has 6 feeds off the terminal.
: | : > > What would one of you professionals do?
: | : > > I know that I have a short to ground, somewhere.
: | : > > I have plenty of time. Just wondering if there is a more
: systematic
: | : > > way to do this. None of the door switch lights are bad.
: | : > > I have removed the whole radio, equalizer, lighter assembly.
: | : > > So, I have easy access to the fuse/relay panel.
: | : > >
: | : > > What a sweet car, I had it out today for a while. Runs fine.
: | : > > Battery will last for a couple of days, then dead.
: | : > > Had the battery tested today, it is fine and 6 months old.
: | : > > Of course I had it on the charger for a few hours.
: | : > >
: | : > > Thanks, Again.
: | : > >
: | : > > AJ @ Home in Wisconsin
: | : > > 1989 - 765 w/134k Miles
: | : > > 1989 - 780T w/143k Miles
: | : > > 1987 - 245 w/225k Sold
: | : > > And the Wife's FORD is still going.
: | : >
: | : >
: | :
: | :
: |
:
