93 850 tighten parking brake

Discussion in 'Volvo 850' started by Mike Mayer, May 12, 2004.

  1. Mike Mayer

    Mike Mayer Guest

    Hello all,

    I have already used the hex-head screw behind the parking brake under the
    pop-off cover, to tighten the parking brake. I've gone all the way with it,
    which I have been told means that I have to go tighten up the cable with
    some kind of adjustment at each of the rear brake drums.

    I'll assume you back-off the parking brake hex screw by the parking brake,
    then tighten the cables by the rear brake drums, then re-tighten the hex
    head nut to get the parking brake tight again.

    I've never done the part back by the parking brake drums - could someone
    please advise with details?

    Thanks,

    Mike
     
    Mike Mayer, May 12, 2004
    #1
  2. Mike Mayer

    David Taylor Guest

    I'll assume you back-off the parking brake hex screw by the parking brake,
    Pretty much but you don't need to do anything with the nut inside the
    car, or at least, you didn't need to! I'd slacken that off to where it
    was and then take each rear wheel off in turn.

    You'll find a hole in the drum part of the disc, turn that to roughly
    the top and you might find it easier to use a torch to find the adjuster
    through the hole.

    Basically the shoes are seperated out by a threaded rod and a long nut
    with wings on it, you need to flick the wings down to tighten the shoes
    and up to release them.

    Turn this adjuster until the disc locks then back if off a quarter of a
    turn and check that the wheel rotates freely.

    The actual official Volvo procedure might specify this slightly more but
    I have to say that when I last took my 850 to a Volvo dealer for a
    service they had it adjusted so that the handbrake locked on just 1
    ratchet click which didn't feel right at all.

    Immediately after the service, I replaced all discs and pads and with
    the normal adjustment procedure, the handbrake was back to a few clicks
    which felt much better.

    David.
     
    David Taylor, May 12, 2004
    #2
  3. Mike Mayer

    Mike F Guest

    You may also find that the friction material has rusted off the shoes,
    that's why you need so much adjustment. I'd remove the rear rotors just
    to make sure everything is OK inside.

    --
    Mike F.
    Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.

    NOTE: new address!!
    Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly.
    (But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.)
     
    Mike F, May 12, 2004
    #3
  4. Mike Mayer

    David Taylor Guest

    You may also find that the friction material has rusted off the shoes,
    Yes and a handy tip is to use the adjuster to wind in the shoes before
    trying to pull the disc off otherwise they'll likely just bind on the
    ridge that will no doubt have formed.

    :)

    David.
     
    David Taylor, May 12, 2004
    #4
  5. Mike Mayer

    Mike Mayer Guest

    Thanks to all for the advice!

    Mike
     
    Mike Mayer, May 13, 2004
    #5
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