940 Turbo clutch change

Discussion in 'Volvo 940' started by Tony, Jun 30, 2009.

  1. Tony

    Tony Guest

    The car is a 1995 2.3 Turbo SE Estate with 150K miles and seems to have
    the 240mm clutch according to Euro car parts. I've ordered a Sachs
    clutch kit. I am fairly sure it has the M90 gearbox.

    The main reason I am changing it is that the flywheel sensor
    bracket/moulding is broken. I tried to use it as a flywheel lock for a
    cam belt change as I did in my 360 and it broke (the 360 bellhousing is
    solid here). Hot melt glue has actually secured it for many years, but
    now I want to fix it, requiring removal of the bellhousing and sort the
    less than perfect clutch. It slips under extreme circumstances and the
    bite point is very close to the fully out point, its also quite juddery
    and creaks when the pedal is pushed in.

    I did run additional boost for a while and when that started slipping
    under full power I restored normal boost.

    I have now read that my 940 probably has a dual mass flywheel and that
    its quite complicated rather than a simple surface. To get a good
    quality clutch operation is it likely this will need to be changed, is
    this only available from the dealer and will they need to swop over the
    ring gear?
    Tony, Jun 30, 2009
  2. Tony, having just replaced my clutch on the 945 with M90 gearbox, yours
    being a Turbo model does indeed have a special clutch. However the driven
    plate and pressure plate can be replaced in the same way as the non-turbo
    version. However, as you say your pedal is only just engaging at it's
    highest point I would suggest that you have the Slave cylinder replaced and
    that the brake fluid is completely replaced at the same time. The driven
    plate has no radial springs and is flat unlike the non-turbo plate which has
    radial springs incorporated. Any radial movement involved as the clutch
    takes up is absorbed by the springs in the special (dual) flywheel.

    Eurocarparts or German Swedish & French should be capable of supplying the
    correct parts but I had to go to a dealer as Eurocarparts supplied me with
    incorrect parts which caused the demise of the clutch slave which jammed the
    clutch in the inoperative mode.

    If you need a list of parts required I can supply same if necessary. I
    assume that you are UK based as I am South Wales based.

    All the best, Peter.
    Peter K L Milnes, Jul 3, 2009
  3. Tony

    Tony Guest

    I am more worried that the flywheel maybe on the way out as it is very
    juddery, although it has seen a fair bit of oil, which will mainly
    damage the friction material.

    The slave cylinder has been bleed, and the main problems with the clutch
    is at the pedal with alot of wear in the linkage, leaving with no travel
    and having to really push to the floor each time to stop crunching. The
    biting point is a seperate issue but you are basically saying the slave
    is behaving non-linear, how could this happen? I would assume it only
    needs changing if it is leaking or jammed, surely? I have a partially
    disassembled master that I hope to swop out with a better linkage (the
    pin hole is mostly round rather than a big slot).

    I have the new clutch kit from ECP and it is as you say, I followed the
    instructions on their parts list for the different chassis's. Which
    according to the Sachs web site is for a different thrust bearing. Not
    that that will always guarantee you have the right parts from ECP, but
    they are good at sending out replacement parts. And I don't really need
    the car for another week.

    After learning of the dual mass thing I really wanted to get a solid
    uprated clutch as I would like to put back the boost mod I had on, this
    time with a switch. But it may have been the boost that damaged it in
    the first place, it did vibrate at certain rev/power sometimes.

    Anyway still stripping down and hope to complete at the weekend, and get
    a general look around it to see what state the flywheel is in.
    Tony, Jul 3, 2009
  4. Tony

    Tony Guest

    Actually, instructions on removing the gearbox would be helpful.

    I currently have 2 problems, with enough time I sure I can solve them,
    but the manual is unhelpful, describing the M47 removal.

    1. The Drive shaft has a centre piece running up inside the rubber
    damper that connect to the gearbox, do I need to take the bolts off the
    gearbox side (the drive shaft ones where easier to get at). The drive
    shaft doesn't seem to push back far enough to clear it. Or does the
    drive shaft need to come completely out?

    2. I can't see how to remove the gear stick or free it from the gearbox.
    Tony, Jul 3, 2009
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