95 850 fan stopped working - please help

[Tom Keller]

Hi all,
I did not realize until recently (this morning) that the
flashing lights on the recirculation and air conditioning switches on
my 95 850 turbo wagon's dash were trying to tell me something. When I
took the kids to school today and the fan didn't turn on to defrost
the windows (we're in South Dakota, so it's cold), I realized I had a
problem.
The code flashing has been happening for months. I grabbed my
Haynes manual, ran the diagnostics, and the following codes came up:

211 - Driver's side damper motor position sensor open circuit or
shorted to 12 volts

325 - recirculation damper motor active too long

411 - blower fan seized or drawing excessive current

414 - driver's side interior temperature sensor inlet fan seized

417 - passenger's side interior temperature inlet fan seized

Everything seemed to work fine (other than a little squealing,
periodically, coming from the passenger side near the glovebox), but
this morning, no fan. I tried the fuses first, of course, but knew
right away that it wasn't going to help.

There is no local Volvo dealer; one "import shop" can't look
at it until a week from Monday. I'm desperate. Would you recommend
swapping out the blower fan motor, or is that just a stop-gap for some
bigger problem?

I would just put in a new blower motor, but since the codes
started long before the fan quit working, it makes me think there's
some other wiring problem. The car generally doesn't have significant
corrosion.

Thank you all! I've learned a lot about my car from this ng.

South Dakota Tom
[email protected]
[email protected]

 

[radietz]

Hi all,
I did not realize until recently (this morning) that the
flashing lights on the recirculation and air conditioning switches on
my 95 850 turbo wagon's dash were trying to tell me something. When I
took the kids to school today and the fan didn't turn on to defrost
the windows (we're in South Dakota, so it's cold), I realized I had a
problem.
The code flashing has been happening for months. I grabbed my
Haynes manual, ran the diagnostics, and the following codes came up:

211 - Driver's side damper motor position sensor open circuit or
shorted to 12 volts

325 - recirculation damper motor active too long

411 - blower fan seized or drawing excessive current

414 - driver's side interior temperature sensor inlet fan seized

417 - passenger's side interior temperature inlet fan seized

Everything seemed to work fine (other than a little squealing,
periodically, coming from the passenger side near the glovebox), but
this morning, no fan. I tried the fuses first, of course, but knew
right away that it wasn't going to help.

There is no local Volvo dealer; one "import shop" can't look
at it until a week from Monday. I'm desperate. Would you recommend
swapping out the blower fan motor, or is that just a stop-gap for some
bigger problem?

I would just put in a new blower motor, but since the codes
started long before the fan quit working, it makes me think there's
some other wiring problem. The car generally doesn't have significant
corrosion.

Thank you all! I've learned a lot about my car from this ng.

South Dakota Tom
[email protected]
[email protected]

For what ever reason you do have some wiring issues with the doors that
are reporting slow movement, but the only code of significance is the
411, blower overload. Combine that with the bearing squeal and you have
enough reason to change the blower motor. The trickiest part is getting
the hinge straps to release in the glove box door so you can access the
lower screws to remove the glove box. If it has a passenger side air bag
be careful of the orange harness and wires. When reassembling be careful
that they are not pinched and are located as they were originally. You
need a handful of wire tires to resecure the wiring in the wire traces.
You have to cut the originals to get room enough to pull the motor out
of the housing. Just a bunch of torx screws. The screwdriver and bits
should be in the toolkit that came with the car.

Bob

 

[Mike F]

For what ever reason you do have some wiring issues with the doors that
are reporting slow movement, but the only code of significance is the
411, blower overload. Combine that with the bearing squeal and you have
enough reason to change the blower motor. The trickiest part is getting
the hinge straps to release in the glove box door so you can access the
lower screws to remove the glove box. If it has a passenger side air bag
be careful of the orange harness and wires. When reassembling be careful
that they are not pinched and are located as they were originally. You
need a handful of wire tires to resecure the wiring in the wire traces.
You have to cut the originals to get room enough to pull the motor out
of the housing. Just a bunch of torx screws. The screwdriver and bits
should be in the toolkit that came with the car.

Bob

In addition, the 414 and 417 codes can usually be fixed by cleaning the
dust out of the intakes. These are located up on the roof near the grab
handles.

--
Mike F.
Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.

Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly.
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