Advice on an 850

[Juper Wort]

Hey all, just appeared here.

I'm looking for an 850, to fit the ever increasing family in.

Are there any gotchas I should be looking for, or models/engines to avoid. I
can stretch to about 5K. reliability and longevity are prime concerns, but
its gotta look good, and not be a slug when its needed.

Thanks in advance,

James in Nottingham, UK.

 

[AJ MacLeod]

I'm looking for an 850, to fit the ever increasing family in.

Good choice - there aren't many cars around with more roomy interiors!

Are there any gotchas I should be looking for, or models/engines to avoid. I
can stretch to about 5K. reliability and longevity are prime concerns, but
its gotta look good, and not be a slug when its needed.

Avoid cars with air conditioning then. The system is a notorious source
of trouble, although thankfully my car didn't have it specified so this
is second hand knowledge.

You will need to search for a little more detail, but the ABS ECU on
certain model years (I think around 94, but you'll need to check) has a
habit of failing. Check that the ABS light in the dash comes on with the
ignition (i.e. make sure it's not been removed!) and goes out after the
car is started.

I am assuming that you are interested in an estate? If so, I think you'd
be better off with one of the 2.5l engines. I have a 2l 20v saloon and
performance is perfectly adequate (better than expected, actually) but the
engine does like being revved to get decent power out. I would imagine
the estates would be slightly heavier and would need a little more power,
but the best thing is for you to test drive a few.

General advice - don't buy anything that doesn't have a very comprehensive
(and preferably dealer) service history. It seems the 850 can be very
reliable and long-lived if serviced according to schedule and using
quality parts. Look for signs that money was spent when it was needed,
not grudged and temporary/cheaper measures taken to "solve" problems.

I'm delighted with my 850, it's a very spacious, comfortable,
thoughtfully designed and well-built car which is also very nice to drive.
I doubt you'll be disappointed!

You may find the following useful;

http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/information-850-70.htm

If you do buy a volvo, it's well worth joining the VOC for advice and
discounts on parts and servicing. They also have a good 850 forum which
you can use without being a member. Have a read of that and you'll see
what kind of problems can arise.

Cheers,

AJ

 

[Juper Wort]

Good choice - there aren't many cars around with more roomy interiors!


Avoid cars with air conditioning then. The system is a notorious source
of trouble, although thankfully my car didn't have it specified so this
is second hand knowledge.

You will need to search for a little more detail, but the ABS ECU on
certain model years (I think around 94, but you'll need to check) has a
habit of failing. Check that the ABS light in the dash comes on with the
ignition (i.e. make sure it's not been removed!) and goes out after the
car is started.

I am assuming that you are interested in an estate? If so, I think you'd
be better off with one of the 2.5l engines. I have a 2l 20v saloon and
performance is perfectly adequate (better than expected, actually) but the
engine does like being revved to get decent power out. I would imagine
the estates would be slightly heavier and would need a little more power,
but the best thing is for you to test drive a few.

General advice - don't buy anything that doesn't have a very comprehensive
(and preferably dealer) service history. It seems the 850 can be very
reliable and long-lived if serviced according to schedule and using
quality parts. Look for signs that money was spent when it was needed,
not grudged and temporary/cheaper measures taken to "solve" problems.

I'm delighted with my 850, it's a very spacious, comfortable,
thoughtfully designed and well-built car which is also very nice to drive.
I doubt you'll be disappointed!

You may find the following useful;

http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/information-850-70.htm

If you do buy a volvo, it's well worth joining the VOC for advice and
discounts on parts and servicing. They also have a good 850 forum which
you can use without being a member. Have a read of that and you'll see
what kind of problems can arise.

Cheers,

AJ

Wow, loads of info, thanks. Yes. an estate is what I require. The Golf hatch
has been brilliant & faultless, just need more room.

James

 

[Guest]

Wow, loads of info, thanks. Yes. an estate is what I require. The Golf hatch
has been brilliant & faultless, just need more room.

We are in the process of going from a 93 mk1 850 2litre 20 to a 97 S70 2.5
10, the 850 having covered 110k with relative ease.

As AJ says, the 2litre 20 is adequate but does have to be revved hard to
perform- not alot happens below 4500rpm and even less below 2500rpm. If you
drive it like this to make reasonable progress expect 23-25mpg, with a
manual box. The auto actually suits this engine better and is less tiring to
drive fairly quickly.

Avoid the 2litre 10v like the plague. The 2.5 10v is probably the best of
the naturally aspirated engines, taller gearing than the 2 litre and alot
more torque- its also better on fuel. Manual is best. If you go for the 2.5
20v manual or auto doesnt matter.

In the case of any 850 expect nothing less than a full dealer service
history and or lots of receipts. These cars will do 200k fairly easily but
only with good maintanace- at least every 10,000miles with an oil change
half way.

On early J-K-L reg cars look for

Leaking heater matrix's- dash doesnt have to come out unless it has a/c but
new matrixs are ~£300 and very rare 2nd hand
Lots of creaks and rattles,
Saggy rear suspension on estates
Clonking from the front anti-roll bar bushes (easily fixed but soon comes
back)
Non working a/c from a burst evapourator- dash does have to come out.
Slipping auto box.
Worn out clutch (£400 to change) Some 'hum' and alittle bit of grabbyness on
taking up drive is normal.
Failed ABS units- lamp on- make sure no one has taken the bulb out- make
sure the abs works.
Noisy hydraulic tappets on the 20valvers due to insufficient oil changes.
Cambelt change- 50k on early cars, 70k there after- there is a sticker on
the cam cover saying which. Evidence it has been done- if your looking at a
100k+ car budget for replacement waterpump, belt, tensioner too. A broken
belt spells the end for the engine.
The occasional failed front wheel bearing.
Seat heater wires fall off and the heaters stop working- fiddly but easily
sorted.

On later cars 95 and on-

10v models the exhaust manifold flex pipe can break- the manifold (£350) is
integral and the whole lot has to be changed.
A./c / climate control problems.
corroded rear discs.

Abit of a list, but hope it helps when you go to look at cars.

Tim..

 

[Juper Wort]

As AJ says, the 2litre 20 is adequate but does have to be revved hard to
perform- not alot happens below 4500rpm and even less below 2500rpm. If you
drive it like this to make reasonable progress expect 23-25mpg, with a
manual box. The auto actually suits this engine better and is less tiring to
drive fairly quickly.

Avoid the 2litre 10v like the plague. The 2.5 10v is probably the best of
the naturally aspirated engines, taller gearing than the 2 litre and alot
more torque- its also better on fuel. Manual is best. If you go for the 2.5
20v manual or auto doesnt matter.

In the case of any 850 expect nothing less than a full dealer service
history and or lots of receipts. These cars will do 200k fairly easily but
only with good maintanace- at least every 10,000miles with an oil change
half way.

On early J-K-L reg cars look for

Leaking heater matrix's- dash doesnt have to come out unless it has a/c but
new matrixs are ~£300 and very rare 2nd hand
Lots of creaks and rattles,
Saggy rear suspension on estates
Clonking from the front anti-roll bar bushes (easily fixed but soon comes
back)
Non working a/c from a burst evapourator- dash does have to come out.
Slipping auto box.
Worn out clutch (£400 to change) Some 'hum' and alittle bit of grabbyness on
taking up drive is normal.
Failed ABS units- lamp on- make sure no one has taken the bulb out- make
sure the abs works.
Noisy hydraulic tappets on the 20valvers due to insufficient oil changes.
Cambelt change- 50k on early cars, 70k there after- there is a sticker on
the cam cover saying which. Evidence it has been done- if your looking at a
100k+ car budget for replacement waterpump, belt, tensioner too. A broken
belt spells the end for the engine.
The occasional failed front wheel bearing.
Seat heater wires fall off and the heaters stop working- fiddly but easily
sorted.

On later cars 95 and on-

10v models the exhaust manifold flex pipe can break- the manifold (£350) is
integral and the whole lot has to be changed.
A./c / climate control problems.
corroded rear discs.

Abit of a list, but hope it helps when you go to look at cars.

Tim..

again, Thanks.

No one has mentiond the 2.5 Diesel yet ? You certainly get the mileage, but
do they get smokey at a certain age ?

James

 

[Stephen M. Henning]

Avoid cars with air conditioning then. The system is a notorious source
of trouble, although thankfully my car didn't have it specified so this
is second hand knowledge.

I have owned a '93 854 (180k miles) and a '95 855 (120k miles). Both
had AC and were very reliable. The key is to leave AC on in the winter.
If the seals dry out they will leak. The AC only actually runs when
defog or cooling are required, but this keeps the seals in good shape.

The problem areas in the 850 were:

From '93 to '97 the AC was a problem. But as I said, if used properly,
it is OK. There is not difference between getting a car with AC and
just not using it if it fails then not getting it in the first place.

The '93 model had automatic transmission problems. They occured for me
at 100,000 miles.

From '93 to '00 they had a record of having electrical wiring problems.
Those that had the problem should have been serviced and be OK now. Make
sure you have a record of service.

From '93 to '98 the brakes had a record of having problems. Primarily
with warped rotors. This was agrivated by over-torquing the lug nuts.

I have no data on the '92 model since it was not imported into the USA.

 

[AB]

I have the 2.5 TDI - '96 model
82,000 miles, and regularly serviced
Around town expect 30+ mpg, and on long runs such as Cornwall, I get 40+
mpg - but this is with a very full load (2 kids etc. plus enough stuff
for an Arctic expedition) and thrashing down the motorway - where it is
safe to do so - still only 2,500 revs though.
Had to have rear disks changed last service (80k miles) abd it eats
tyres pretty quickly, but apart from that it is a dream to drive.
I'd love a new car (who wouldn't?) but there is nothing wrong with this
one, so I can't really justify the expense.

Good luck with your search - I believe diesel 850s are comparatively rare.

AB

 

[Joe landy]

Hiya chappies.
I have a 1997 2.5 TDI V70, which has now covered 227,000 UK miles, yes
227,000. This is the best car I have ever owned, and I am concerned that the
new V70 will not meet it on quality and performance when I come to trade it
in.
As you probably know, the V70 is very similar to an 850, just with some
minor facelift touches.
I have done all servicing myself, except for cambelts.
0-60 in the diesel is below 10 seconds (10.2 0-62 in the book I believe),
and is certainly ample, especially at 50-70 mph when overtaking e.t.c.
I get 44 mpg no matter what I do to it, town driving, motorway, e.t.c but I
did get over 50 mpg when I went to Cornwall in November. Cruise control is
marvellous at getting fuel consumption down, and heated seats are
essential!!
I have seen lots of 850 TDIs in the UK for less than 5 grand, and my mileage
should tell you than 110,000 is nothing to worry about!
I rarely go over 2500 revs, sometimes 3000 when overtaking.
Interestingly, the 50-70 time is faster in 5th gear than what it is on 4th.
As mr AB wrote, these cars are a dream to drive. When I was looking for a
car, I was looking for an 850 TDI for about 8 grand, but I found a V70 model
for £8500, so I grabbed it!
As a previous poster mentioned, You will have to replace belt tensioners
when mileage gets high. My aux belt tensioner seized when I was driving, and
it unscrewed itself from it's single-bolt mounting and dropped off. Didn't
even break the belt! When I got my cambelts changed soon after this, I had
the dealer change the tensioners on those too. It only added £80 to the
price.
If you are any where near cambridgeshire, and want a good look in a V70,
you're welcome to have a browse over mine.
As for smoke, Mine required new injectors at 160,000 miles. This cost £300
for factory replacements, and cured all smoke problems.
The volvo is a good choice, good luck with it.
p.s Cambelt change on the Diesel is 80,000 miles, and costs about £350. Some
non-franchise dealers will now do cambelts considerably cheaper than this.

 

[AJ MacLeod]

From '93 to '97 the AC was a problem. But as I said, if used properly,
it is OK. There is not difference between getting a car with AC and
just not using it if it fails then not getting it in the first place.

I understand that AC requires frequent / constant use for lubrication,
but the trouble is if you're buying a second hand car you have no idea how
it's been used. Over here, especially, very few people know anything
about AC (it's been comparatively rare until recently) and they only use
it when it's hot outside (i.e not that often!)

As for having it but not using it when broken - to me at least it kind of
spoils my enjoyment of the car if things are broken. Currently the only
thing in that category on my car is the driver's heated seat, and even
that bothers me!

The '93 model had automatic transmission problems. They occured for me
at 100,000 miles.

I have a '93 auto - transmission currently fabulous (114k miles), but
saying that's just asking for trouble! I nearly always seem to read of
this particular problem regarding cars in North America. Maybe it's
because autos are a higher percentage over there though?

Cheers,

AJ

 

[Chris, Jen and Pip]

I have a 97R S70 2.5 10v SE for sale if you are at all interested.

Chris

 

[Juper Wort]

Hiya chappies.
I have a 1997 2.5 TDI V70, which has now covered 227,000 UK miles, yes
227,000. This is the best car I have ever owned, and I am concerned that the
new V70 will not meet it on quality and performance when I come to trade it
in.
As you probably know, the V70 is very similar to an 850, just with some
minor facelift touches.
I have done all servicing myself, except for cambelts.
0-60 in the diesel is below 10 seconds (10.2 0-62 in the book I believe),
and is certainly ample, especially at 50-70 mph when overtaking e.t.c.
I get 44 mpg no matter what I do to it, town driving, motorway, e.t.c but I
did get over 50 mpg when I went to Cornwall in November. Cruise control is
marvellous at getting fuel consumption down, and heated seats are
essential!!
I have seen lots of 850 TDIs in the UK for less than 5 grand, and my mileage
should tell you than 110,000 is nothing to worry about!
I rarely go over 2500 revs, sometimes 3000 when overtaking.
Interestingly, the 50-70 time is faster in 5th gear than what it is on 4th.
As mr AB wrote, these cars are a dream to drive. When I was looking for a
car, I was looking for an 850 TDI for about 8 grand, but I found a V70 model
for £8500, so I grabbed it!
As a previous poster mentioned, You will have to replace belt tensioners
when mileage gets high. My aux belt tensioner seized when I was driving, and
it unscrewed itself from it's single-bolt mounting and dropped off. Didn't
even break the belt! When I got my cambelts changed soon after this, I had
the dealer change the tensioners on those too. It only added £80 to the
price.
If you are any where near cambridgeshire, and want a good look in a V70,
you're welcome to have a browse over mine.
As for smoke, Mine required new injectors at 160,000 miles. This cost £300
for factory replacements, and cured all smoke problems.
The volvo is a good choice, good luck with it.
p.s Cambelt change on the Diesel is 80,000 miles, and costs about £350. Some
non-franchise dealers will now do cambelts considerably cheaper than this.

What a fantasic amount of info. Great work.
It seems strange talking about air con & heated seats etc. My wife currently
uses the Golf, but my daily driver to & from work is a 30 yr old Beetle ! I
activate the air con by winding that thing on the door, & the only thing
heated is the rear screen, not even me !

There is a Volvo dealer local to me, so shall go & have a look at what they
have 'round back'. I know its going to be a bit more pricey, but hopefully
things will be somewhat sorted & there should be some sort of warranty.

Someone once said you can get ex police cars at the auctions cheap, but they
may have holes in the dash !!

Thanks all.

James

 

[Joe landy]

Hi Mr James.
I think there is a company with a good website for ex-police Volvos, called
expolicevolvos.co.uk or something like that. (can't find it myself, you'll
have to google!).
They advertise in the auto trader, and you'll sure get one for £5K. They fit
new engines in some of them I believe. There may be a few small holes in the
dash from where radio equipment was mounted e.t.c, but I believe they
usually remove part of the dash/stereo to fit their own panel in, and then
revert to original when they sell them. Perhaps an officer will reply to
this post and fill us in!
Dealers don't seem to sell many 850s these days, I assume they all go to the
car auctions. I asked about trading in my V70 TDI, but they said that
anything with over 100K on the clock can't be covered with the Volvo
warranty, so they just get rid.
P.S My heated driver's seat broke at 200,000 miles, and I just fitted a set
of leathers this autumn, ready for winter use. They've also got Electrical
movements, and position memories. Lovely jubbly. I had to wire in the seat
movements myself, coz I couldn't locate the loom for this option, but it
wasn't difficult for a sparky like myself. If you catch the seat overheating
in time (before it burns through the cloth), you can replace the element,
with integrated thermostats for £35. The seat-base cloth is fixed on with
keyring type wire hoops.
Have fun, and get searching!
Cheers.
Joe Landy.
Peterborough
UK.

What a fantastic amount of info. Great work.
It seems strange talking about air con & heated seats etc. My wife currently
uses the Golf, but my daily driver to & from work is a 30 yr old Beetle ! I
activate the air con by winding that thing on the door, & the only thing
heated is the rear screen, not even me !

There is a Volvo dealer local to me, so shall go & have a look at what they
have 'round back'. I know its going to be a bit more pricey, but hopefully
things will be somewhat sorted & there should be some sort of warranty.

Someone once said you can get ex police cars at the auctions cheap, but they
may have holes in the dash !!

Thanks all.

James

but

this.

 

[Me]

but


What a fantasic amount of info. Great work.
It seems strange talking about air con & heated seats etc. My wife currently
uses the Golf, but my daily driver to & from work is a 30 yr old Beetle ! I
activate the air con by winding that thing on the door, & the only thing
heated is the rear screen, not even me !

There is a Volvo dealer local to me, so shall go & have a look at what they
have 'round back'. I know its going to be a bit more pricey, but hopefully
things will be somewhat sorted & there should be some sort of warranty.

Someone once said you can get ex police cars at the auctions cheap, but they
may have holes in the dash !!

Just to give you an idea, I recently paid £2900 for a 1995 2.5SE 10v estate,
88K, FVSH, immaculate inside and out, private sale.

 

[AB]

I was advised by a dealer not to go for the ex-police cars unless
desperate - yes they are regularly serviced, but then they have to be -
they are kept running almost 24 hours a day, 365 days a year - all
components are thoroughly thrashed.

 

[Guest]

I was advised by a dealer not to go for the ex-police cars unless
desperate - yes they are regularly serviced, but then they have to be -
they are kept running almost 24 hours a day, 365 days a year - all
components are thoroughly thrashed.

The servicing is a plus point- they cover the mileage quickly and are
serviced according to factory specs about every 3 weeks - month with genuine
parts, so anything that is worn out or needs replacing is replaced. You are
not likely to find problems with suspension, brakes or steering wear. Any
major faults have to be declared at the time of sale (if its an auction)

The constant running is also good- cold starts and short journeys at low
speed kill the mechanical bits in short order. Alot will just cruise the
motorway at a steady 65 with the occasional burst to 3 figure speeds.

However, in some cases yes they are driven very hard and will suffer some
scrapes and minor dents. With the 70 series cars at 150K+ miles the only
major mechanical problems you're going to get is a knackered gearbox, manual
or auto, and a knackered clutch if its not been changed. Turbo failure and
main crank oil seal leaking occasionally too which is over £500 to rectify
territory.

With both 'boxes remember Volvo do not advise a change of fluid and at this
mileage the autobox will not have a huge amount of life left in it, compared
to one thats been owned privately and oil changes insisted upon.

So its alot of car for the money, if you can cope with white paint and
factor in the cost of having the roof holes filled and other bodywork
tidied, adding a stereo and the slight risk of gearbox problems then go for
it.

Tim..

 

[John Horner]

Hey all, just appeared here.

I'm looking for an 850, to fit the ever increasing family in.

Are there any gotchas I should be looking for, or models/engines to avoid. I
can stretch to about 5K. reliability and longevity are prime concerns, but
its gotta look good, and not be a slug when its needed.

Thanks in advance,

James in Nottingham, UK.

I've owned my '96 850 5-speed since new and it has had relatively few
problems, but some can be very expensive.

The ABS controller failed and the part alone cost me $500. This is purely a
design/mfg. issue as there is nothing to maintain with regard to this unit.

Another problem with my car was that the front ball joints where completely
worn out by 60k miles, which seems low to me. Again there are no great
fittings, so maintenance is not an issue.

My car is a manual transmission model and the tranny has been faultless.
There are apparently some common problems with the auto transmission
electronics which are to be looked out for.

With a used car and where costs are a big concern I would avoid the
turbocharged models, simply because they are more complex and can put more
stress on the driveline.

All in all I have enjoyed the car, but it is not without it's problems. Do
not buy a Volvo thinking that no repairs will ever be needed.

John