Air-intake pump 1997 850 Volvos

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socraticquest

Hello,

My Volvo mechanic found that the Air-intake pump and valve in my 1997
850 Volvo model was broken; which has noticably decreased fuel economy,
and hence 'the check-engine' light ocassionally comes on.

The cost to replace the pump and valve is over $600. Are there (much
less-expensive) air-intake systems (non factory) that would work on
1997 850 model Volvos? Are such air-intake systems simplified for
do-it-yourself installations?

Thank-you
 
socraticquest said:
Hello,

My Volvo mechanic found that the Air-intake pump and valve in my 1997
850 Volvo model was broken; which has noticably decreased fuel economy,
and hence 'the check-engine' light ocassionally comes on.

The cost to replace the pump and valve is over $600. Are there (much
less-expensive) air-intake systems (non factory) that would work on
1997 850 model Volvos? Are such air-intake systems simplified for
do-it-yourself installations?
Click to expand...

How much has this decreased fuel economy? How many more years
are you going to own this car?

If you normally get 20mpg then your cost per mile is 11.7 cents,
if this has reduced mpg to 18 mpg, your cost per mile has increased
1.3 cents to 13.0 cents, that will take 78,000 more miles on this
car before that $600 is paid for.

You might consider calling around to wrecking yards if you really feel
you need to get this done.

Ted
 
socraticquest said:
Hello,

My Volvo mechanic found that the Air-intake pump and valve in my 1997
850 Volvo model was broken; which has noticably decreased fuel economy,
and hence 'the check-engine' light ocassionally comes on.

The cost to replace the pump and valve is over $600. Are there (much
less-expensive) air-intake systems (non factory) that would work on
1997 850 model Volvos? Are such air-intake systems simplified for
do-it-yourself installations?

Thank-you
Click to expand...

There's absolutely no reason the dead air pump would decrease mileage.
The only symptom would be the check engine light. It's only purpose is
to reduce emissions after cold start, it only works the first couple of
minutes on a cold engine.

If you have a mileage reduction, it's caused by something else.

--
Mike F.
Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.

Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly.
(But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.)
 
socraticquest said:
Hello,

My Volvo mechanic found that the Air-intake pump and valve in my 1997
850 Volvo model was broken; which has noticably decreased fuel economy,
and hence 'the check-engine' light ocassionally comes on.
Click to expand...

Secondary Air injection pump is only on at cold engine start for a
short time. It adds air to the exhaust stream to promote complete
burning in the catalytic converter until the CC gets hot enough to burn
on its own. It's like blowing on a glowing ember.

It doesn't change mileage. That would be your foot.

There are three components:
The pump
The SAIS valve
The SAIS relay

You can do it yourself. I just did it on my 1997 850 GLT.
The instructions are available at volvospeed.com
http://www.volvospeed.com/maintenance.shtml

The parts at FCP Groton
http://www.fcpgroton.com/volvo850airpump.htm

The air pump is the expensive bit. The price at Groton is *way* less
than dealer.

Mathews volvo site has an alternative:
http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/air_pump_replacement_850.php

It really pisses me off that the same pump, same manufacturer
(different outlets) cost less than half as much when it comes in VW
box.
The cost to replace the pump and valve is over $600. Are there (much
less-expensive) air-intake systems (non factory) that would work on
1997 850 model Volvos? Are such air-intake systems simplified for
do-it-yourself installations?
Click to expand...

It took me a little over an hour. I would say it is hard, mostly
because of the care you need to take working around a 10 year old
engine. Be very gentle with anything made of rubber.

If you have a GLT or Turbo: The SAIS valve is very difficult. You need
a very short 10mm wrench and can barely turn it enough to get the next
notch...a couple of degrees at a time. Once loose, the back bolt is
"both-hands-for-one-fingertip-each-barely-touching-the-bolthead-you-can't-see"
kind of stuff. Patience is as important as skill

You need to fix this. You can't just ignore the CEL, since you never
know when something else goes bad and it might be more important.
 
I have had many Volvo's in my life but I am having fun with this 1998
V70, I just did some posts today thanking Mike for his response but I
will tell you my experience so far is that your car will run with the
pump removed. You have to terminate the larger hose if it pulls air
from the intake to the air pump is. I bought a used 850 pump on e-bay
with shipping for 80 bucks and if you look at Volvo speed site you will
find you can buy a VW air pump (much cheaper) and it shows how to this,
here is the web site so you can see the pump replacement.
http://www.volvospeed.com/Repair/airpump1.php
You have to buy the valve, about 100.00 from (knuckle buster) Volvo I
think I did. But I have a V70 and bought a 850 air pump and made it
work.
If it breaks again I probably will not replace it if I can.

Just my story to you. I am a shade tree mechanic.
Alan
 
socraticquest said:
Hello,

My Volvo mechanic found that the Air-intake pump and valve in my 1997
850 Volvo model was broken; which has noticably decreased fuel economy,
and hence 'the check-engine' light ocassionally comes on.

The cost to replace the pump and valve is over $600. Are there (much
less-expensive) air-intake systems (non factory) that would work on
1997 850 model Volvos? Are such air-intake systems simplified for
do-it-yourself installations?

Thank-you
Click to expand...


These are part of the emissions control system and are there to provide
extra air into the exhaust stream on a cold start to burn off excess HC.
The air injection system normally doesn't effect fuel economy.

I don't think there are any direct fit aftermarket replacements. The
valve you should replace with a new unit, but you might have some luck
getting a used air pump from a wrecking yard. A wrecking yard should be
able to look up the air pump and see what other years and models used
the same one. It is electric and is located near the battery.

John
 
Thanks for this tip. Does anyone know which VW pump to purchase?? I have a
1998 S70 GLT.

-Fred
 
fmissel said:
Thanks for this tip. Does anyone know which VW pump to purchase?? I have a
1998 S70 GLT.
Click to expand...


According to the article on MathewsVolvoSite which you really want to
read thoroughly, the part he used was VW part 021 959 253C, but he
suggests others as well. It's not direct fit replacement, you have to
do some (easy) screwing around and buying a rebuilt not only makes it
cheaper but simplifies the conversions.

http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/air_pump_replacement_850.php

 
I bought a VW airpump for about $50 on Ebay, and my friend installed it
all w/o a problem. All the work to prepare the VW pump was done on my end,
and he did all the work with taking the Volvo one out, swapping the parts,
drilling a hole in the bottom of the air pump (very important), and lastly
installing it all.

I saved a bundle compared to buying a new airpump, and it is working well.

Mike
 
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