David,
I have a 1970 1800E. I bought about 4 years ago, have done a lot of work
replacing old hoses, belts, and rubber brake lines (the flexible sections
near the wheels), getting the AC system working with a new Sankyo
(rotary-style) compressor and new condenser, overhauling the radiator, the
gas tank, new brake master cylinder, upgraded alternator (55amp instead of
original weak 35amp) overhauling the brake vacuum assist, upgrading the
ignition from mechanical points to Krane electronic ignition (huge
improvement), getting all the dash gauges to work, sound/temperature
insulation of the cabin, minor re-build of the seat webbing, all new
exhaust, all new shocks and springs, all new suspension bushings and ball
joints, re-built steering gear, re-fastening the sagging headliner,
replacing the door rubber trim with upgraded material to reduce wind noise.
The list goes on, but I've concentrated on the mechanical. The body is
straight, no wrecks that I can see, but the paint is faded. This car has
what I would say is the typical rust for this model, along the passenger
side rocker panel.
I'm over 50 (I won't say how much), and my back has begun to demand an older
person's car than the 1800 sports car. It loudly protests if I attempt to
do any work under the hood with my back bent over. In other words, it's
time for me to let someone younger take this car. Until early this year, I
drove the car regularly, but have switched to my Volvo 240 full time now.
Though the car is still registered and insured, I haven't driven it since
February. Due to sitting, the clutch has stuck to the friction plate, which
is pretty common, at least on the older Volvos. When I first purchased the
car, it had likewise gotten stuck when its previous owner had not driven it
for a few months. There is a shadetree mechanic's technique for rocking the
clutch loose, which I've not attempted to do.
This model was the first of the electronic fuel injected cars from Volvo.
They also added this same fuel system to the Volvo 160 sedan, and to a
couple of the 140 models. This same system was also found in Mercedes and
Porches of its day, and a modified version of it was used very successfully
in the Datsun 240/260/280 Z models. This model also has the overdrive
transmission. All of these are working correctly.
I decided at the beginning of this year that I should sell, but have not
moved quickly. I've thought that I should go ahead and finish some of the
cosmetics (new paint, new dash repair to cover the original cracked/peeling
dash cover, new seat reupholster, some more similar items).
Without any of the cosmetic repairs, I would need $4,700, which is well
under half what I paid and have invested in repairs. Since this car is not
a top class collectors' model, I think it is typical that the owner will not
recover all of his/her investment.
If I go ahead with the repaint and cosmetics, I will sell for a little above
$7,000.
If you watch eBay and other "for sale" bulletin boards, you will see that
these are typical prices for cars that are in good mechanical condition, the
difference in price from $4,700 - $7,000 usually equal to the difference in
paint and interior appearance.
Without the cosmetic work, I would consider this car to still be a
"project", but obviously not one that I would sell as a junkyard bargain for
under $2,000. Though I won't get to it, the next major work I had planned
was an engine overhaul. I had the good fortune to purchase a recently
overhauled engine, using a performance cam from IPD and all new
pistons/rings/valves/lifters/etc. (IPD is a well known Volvo performance
parts company). This engine had been in a buddy's 1800E, but was
rear-ended. He parted it out, so I got the engine, but have not yet swapped
it into mine.
Let me know if you want to pursue this. I can send digital pics. By the
way, I live in the Dallas/Ft. Worth area.
Thanks,
Pat Q
