Buy '86 240 with rust?

  • Thread starter Thread starter ingastewart
  • Start date Start date
I

ingastewart

Hello all,

I'm looking at an 86 240 wagon with high miles to buy for $900. It's in
good condition except for rust. (This is Southern California.)
Specifically, just below the back-seat left window (behind driver) there's
a bit of rust - just a few tiny holes just below trim molding - BUT when
you look inside the car - directly behind the holes on the outside - the
rust really made a couple of much bigger, rusty holes, running
horizontally below the window. Then, underneath the car there's a rusty
hole in the chassis toward the outside of the vehicle, directly below the
rust at the window, exposing a bit of yellow wiring (I assume this wiring
goes to rear electrical functions, lights mainly, which all work). The
material down under there looks like fiberglass or aesbestos (I'm not
sure), and the hole is about 1 inch by 4 inches.

I've read enough scary rust "cancer" warnings here and elsewhere. Should I
heed the warnings and take a pass? I think the seller might have "priced
in" this and other, less serious, problems, at least in his mind.

-Inga
 
ingastewart said:
Hello all,

I'm looking at an 86 240 wagon with high miles to buy for $900. It's in
good condition except for rust. (This is Southern California.)
Specifically, just below the back-seat left window (behind driver) there's
a bit of rust - just a few tiny holes just below trim molding - BUT when
you look inside the car - directly behind the holes on the outside - the
rust really made a couple of much bigger, rusty holes, running
horizontally below the window. Then, underneath the car there's a rusty
hole in the chassis toward the outside of the vehicle, directly below the
rust at the window, exposing a bit of yellow wiring (I assume this wiring
goes to rear electrical functions, lights mainly, which all work). The
material down under there looks like fiberglass or aesbestos (I'm not
sure), and the hole is about 1 inch by 4 inches.

I've read enough scary rust "cancer" warnings here and elsewhere. Should I
heed the warnings and take a pass? I think the seller might have "priced
in" this and other, less serious, problems, at least in his mind.

-Inga
Click to expand...


Unless he's giving you the $900 to take it - he didn't price it in.

Take it from an ex rusty '86 240 wagon owner - run away from this
rustbucket!

Think nice rustfree '90s 940 or 960 instead.
 
ingastewart said:
Hello all,

I'm looking at an 86 240 wagon with high miles to buy for $900. It's in
good condition except for rust. (This is Southern California.)
Specifically, just below the back-seat left window (behind driver) there's
a bit of rust - just a few tiny holes just below trim molding - BUT when
you look inside the car - directly behind the holes on the outside - the
rust really made a couple of much bigger, rusty holes, running
horizontally below the window. Then, underneath the car there's a rusty
hole in the chassis toward the outside of the vehicle, directly below the
rust at the window, exposing a bit of yellow wiring (I assume this wiring
goes to rear electrical functions, lights mainly, which all work). The
material down under there looks like fiberglass or aesbestos (I'm not
sure), and the hole is about 1 inch by 4 inches.

I've read enough scary rust "cancer" warnings here and elsewhere. Should I
heed the warnings and take a pass? I think the seller might have "priced
in" this and other, less serious, problems, at least in his mind.

-Inga
Click to expand...

For $900, how long do you want the car to last? One year? Two years? Ten
years?

If you are buying the car to use for a year, the rust almost certainly won't
end the car's life. If you want it to last ten years, then you may have a
problem with the rust ending the life of the car.

I'd get a mechanic to check and see if the car is driveable and the
structure isn't compromised, I'd consider the car. Get a CarFax or see if a
friend can get you a CarFax. If you're car shopping, a month of CarFax
reports is $25, so you can check as many cars as you like. You can perhaps
save some money by getting a Consumer Reports Used Car Purchasing Guide or
similar book or magazine and follow the diagnostic steps before you pay a
mechanic to look at it. You might find something that rules the car out all
on your own. Consumer Reports is available at most local libraries.

In this case, I'd try to pay less than $900. The buyer can't go wrong by
offering less. Use Edmunds or KBB to get a price guide for this car in this
condition. I surfed to Edmunds.com and plugged in 200K miles for a 1990
(Edmunds doesn't go back further than that) in "average" condition with both
options, and Edmunds suggested a private party price of $384. Since you're
looking at something that sounds like it could be described as "rough" (a
step down from "average") and 4 years older, you have a starting point for
discussing price.

We had an '86 240 wagon and, after about 16 years, it got rust holes along
the rocker panels. We live in the Rust Belt, so this wasn't entirely
unexpected. It also developed some other problems (needed about $700 to
$1000 of work all in one go) and we decided we'd be better off investing the
money in a newer car, so we gave it to a charity and took a big deduction.
Maybe you're looking at it now.

CarFax will tell you where the car's been.


*** Free account sponsored by SecureIX.com ***
*** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from http://www.SecureIX.com ***
 
I bought a "project" 1985 245 wagon several weeks ago for $470.

It has some fairly minor rust issues, and as they're minor and hidden
under the carpet I repaired it myself: grind off the rust, use
anti-rust coating, primer, rustoleum cover paint. Should be OK.

Of equal or greater concern: how is the engine, trans, and heater
motor?

They are all good on mine, so I took a chance.

So far, lots of hours invested and about $200 in used parts and
supplies.

When I'm done, I should have a sound car for under a grand that will
last many years.

One question: why rust on a So. Cal car?
 
offer him $500 cash...take $25 of the $500 you saved, drop by home
depot and spray on some rustolieum...i have owned old 240's w/rust that
looked the same 3 yrs later...heck, you may want to repair someday...no
biggie...so calie is pretty dry as the avg year goes by...make sure
everything else works w/out any problems...
 
Thanks to those who responded. I've spoken with the car's mechanic - a
Volvo specialist - and there's nothing suspicious in terms of the car's
history -- same owner for 10 years. I tend to agree that I shouldn't place
undue weight on the rust factor. I don't plan to own it more than 4-5
years, and not in a snowy, slushy climate.

My other concern is an oil leak of unknown origin, which the mechanic
wasn't aware of because he hasn't seen the car in over a year. He replaced
the rear main seal in 2003. If the source turns out to be the *front* main
seal, that might be a disqualifier. But, as I've said, the source is
unknown.

In any event, I also tend to agree that the asking price of $975 is a bit
rich -- and did I mention the odometer stopped at 225K sometime between
2001 and 2003? (Assuming normal habits, it probably has 260-300K miles
now.) I'll need to have the odometer fixed before my insurance company
will provide coverage, but I don't know what that would cost.

If anyone has anything else to add, given what I've just shared, I'd sure
appeciate it. In any event, thanks again for your collective advice!

-Inga (pseudonym)
 
ingastewart said:
Thanks to those who responded. I've spoken with the car's mechanic - a
Volvo specialist - and there's nothing suspicious in terms of the car's
history -- same owner for 10 years. I tend to agree that I shouldn't place
undue weight on the rust factor. I don't plan to own it more than 4-5
years, and not in a snowy, slushy climate.

My other concern is an oil leak of unknown origin, which the mechanic
wasn't aware of because he hasn't seen the car in over a year. He replaced
the rear main seal in 2003. If the source turns out to be the *front* main
seal, that might be a disqualifier. But, as I've said, the source is
unknown.

In any event, I also tend to agree that the asking price of $975 is a bit
rich -- and did I mention the odometer stopped at 225K sometime between
2001 and 2003? (Assuming normal habits, it probably has 260-300K miles
now.) I'll need to have the odometer fixed before my insurance company
will provide coverage, but I don't know what that would cost.

If anyone has anything else to add, given what I've just shared, I'd sure
appeciate it. In any event, thanks again for your collective advice!

-Inga (pseudonym)
Click to expand...

Working speedo's odos at parts yard usually $10-20. My 85 245 had lots of
rust when I got it in 1999. More rust now but have put 70K miles on it (210K
to 280K) and it still runs strong. I would be more worried about engine
wiring harness than minor (or even moderate) rust.

Howard
 
: :> Thanks to those who responded. I've spoken with the car's mechanic - a
:> Volvo specialist - and there's nothing suspicious in terms of the car's
:> history -- same owner for 10 years. I tend to agree that I shouldn't place
:> undue weight on the rust factor. I don't plan to own it more than 4-5
:> years, and not in a snowy, slushy climate.
:>
:> My other concern is an oil leak of unknown origin, which the mechanic
:> wasn't aware of because he hasn't seen the car in over a year. He replaced
:> the rear main seal in 2003. If the source turns out to be the *front* main
:> seal, that might be a disqualifier. But, as I've said, the source is
:> unknown.
:>
:> In any event, I also tend to agree that the asking price of $975 is a bit
:> rich -- and did I mention the odometer stopped at 225K sometime between
:> 2001 and 2003? (Assuming normal habits, it probably has 260-300K miles
:> now.) I'll need to have the odometer fixed before my insurance company
:> will provide coverage, but I don't know what that would cost.
:>
:> If anyone has anything else to add, given what I've just shared, I'd sure
:> appeciate it. In any event, thanks again for your collective advice!
:>
:> -Inga (pseudonym)

: Working speedo's odos at parts yard usually $10-20. My 85 245 had lots of
: rust when I got it in 1999. More rust now but have put 70K miles on it (210K
: to 280K) and it still runs strong. I would be more worried about engine
: wiring harness than minor (or even moderate) rust.

: Howard

soundz like a brother to my '86 245 that faithfully served me since it was
new... ya the driverside rocker panel is gone, the rear is likewise rusted,
the rear axle mounts are gone, the center driveshaft mount is scorched from
a glowing catalytic converter after distrib cap cracked, it dripps oil,
replaced alot of normal stuff, but after 375K smiles it still runs fine...
i gave it to a friend with handshake agreement to pay me $600 whenever...
got a '90 245 w 80K for 3K, and i'm happy, and so are my friends who
drives the '86, and so is my wife who worried that gas fumes would poison/
kill our irish setters... guess who rules the roost here? anyway, if you
can get it for $500, it *is* a great car! buy & use it!

js



--
 
ingastewart said:
Hello all,

I'm looking at an 86 240 wagon with high miles to buy for $900. It's in
good condition except for rust. (This is Southern California.)
Specifically, just below the back-seat left window (behind driver) there's
a bit of rust - just a few tiny holes just below trim molding - BUT when
you look inside the car - directly behind the holes on the outside - the
rust really made a couple of much bigger, rusty holes, running
horizontally below the window. Then, underneath the car there's a rusty
hole in the chassis toward the outside of the vehicle, directly below the
rust at the window, exposing a bit of yellow wiring (I assume this wiring
goes to rear electrical functions, lights mainly, which all work). The
material down under there looks like fiberglass or aesbestos (I'm not
sure), and the hole is about 1 inch by 4 inches.

I've read enough scary rust "cancer" warnings here and elsewhere. Should I
heed the warnings and take a pass? I think the seller might have "priced
in" this and other, less serious, problems, at least in his mind.

-Inga
Click to expand...


Personally I wouldn't buy a car with rust other than as a parts car, but
if all you want is a beater to get you around or haul stuff, that car
will probably run for years and do just that.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top