can you change the output on a bosch internaly regulated alternator ?

  • Thread starter Thread starter richard
  • Start date Start date
R

richard

Yes you can, there are two ways: one is to buy this device:

http://www.extra150miles.com/30trial.html

(you will get 14.09V instead of 13.80V, energy comes from Kinetic Energy,
not from fossil fuel)



Two is to send your alternator to me and I will fix it for you for $100,
you pay shipping on both directions. Recommend not to exceed 14.28V to
avoid destroying sensitive electronics in your vehicle.
[email protected], this method still consume fossil fuel.

Good luck,



Richard.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------



bosch alternators


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


need one or two more volts out of mine would like 14.2 or so only getting
13.8 am using to charge deep cycle batteries any ideas thanks oldtime

http://www.smokstak.com/forum/showthread.php?t=15136
 
Yes you can, there are two ways: one is to buy this device:

http://www.extra150miles.com/30trial.html

(you will get 14.09V instead of 13.80V, energy comes from Kinetic Energy,
not from fossil fuel)


What complete rubbish. Where does the Kinetic Energy come from, if
not fossil fuel? Or is this for Fred Flintstone's car? And I'd
submit that whether you get 14.09 or 13.8 volts out of your alternator
matters not a wit.
 
The advert is a hoot..."your car also must be frictionless"..."you may have
to hire a good mechanic to get rid of frictions in brakes" Ah yes, that
darned friction, always slowin' me down!

Tim
Yes you can, there are two ways: one is to buy this device:

http://www.extra150miles.com/30trial.html

(you will get 14.09V instead of 13.80V, energy comes from Kinetic Energy,
not from fossil fuel)


What complete rubbish. Where does the Kinetic Energy come from, if
not fossil fuel? Or is this for Fred Flintstone's car? And I'd
submit that whether you get 14.09 or 13.8 volts out of your alternator
matters not a wit.
 
TimR said:
The advert is a hoot..."your car also must be frictionless"..."you may
have to hire a good mechanic to get rid of frictions in brakes" Ah yes,
that darned friction, always slowin' me down!

Tim



What complete rubbish. Where does the Kinetic Energy come from, if
not fossil fuel? Or is this for Fred Flintstone's car? And I'd
submit that whether you get 14.09 or 13.8 volts out of your alternator
matters not a wit.


LOL.


To answer the original question, yes, you can get adjustable regulators.
iPD www.ipdusa.com used to sell them, I think they still do. Probably
available from other places as well.
 
James Sweet said:
LOL.


To answer the original question, yes, you can get adjustable regulators.
iPD www.ipdusa.com used to sell them, I think they still do. Probably
available from other places as well.

No link. ?? You assume common electronic regulator is compatible with car
regulator? Another low grade expert.
 
Yes you can, there are two ways: one is to buy this device:

http://www.extra150miles.com/30trial.html

(you will get 14.09V instead of 13.80V, energy comes from Kinetic Energy,
not from fossil fuel)

What complete rubbish. Where does the Kinetic Energy come from, if
not fossil fuel?

First your untested logic is only valid for those who make HHO (H2O)
generator. Go tell them that there is no free energy in a vehicle, people
still buy their product, that amazes me.

Second, your Kinetic energy is not there, it is minimized by your poorly
designed car, it is eaten up by your frictions. Do you want Proof? Your
10sc car cannot accelerate in 3 sc can it? Mine can.

Or is this for Fred Flintstone's car? And I'd submit that whether you
get 14.09 or 13.8 volts out of your alternator matters not a wit.


Why you sounded like a self-schooling person, the world is black and
white!! Why don't you send your complaint to BOSCH and ask them why they
set their
voltage to 13.65 - 13.80V?

I bet BOSCH is smarter than any one of you posters, BOSCH is older than all
your parents combined.


BTW -

BOSCH alternator maximum voltage is 14V, go read their label first and
THINK before posting,

Go ahead put adjustable voltage regulators(like LM317K etc..) on your
alternator and come back to tell me your experience, OK?
 
First your untested logic is only valid for those who make HHO (H2O)
generator. Go tell them that there is no free energy in a vehicle, people
still buy their product, that amazes me.

Second, your Kinetic energy is not there, it is minimized by your poorly
designed car, it is eaten up by your frictions. Do you want Proof? Your
10sc car cannot accelerate in 3 sc can it? Mine can.


you sounded like a self-schooling person, is the world black and white??

Why don't you send your complaint to BOSCH and ask them why they set their
voltage to 13.65 - 13.80V?

I bet BOSCH is smarter than any one of you posters, BOSCH is older than
all
your parents combined.


BTW -

BOSCH alternator maximum voltage is 14V, go read their label first and
THINK before posting,

Go ahead put an adjustable voltage regulators(like LM317K etc..) on your
alternator and come back to tell me your experience, OK?
 
richard pretended :
No link. ?? You assume common electronic regulator is compatible with car
regulator? Another low grade expert.

Let me see if I've got this right. James is on this board constantly
helping folks out. His information is accurate, and to the point. You
are trying to sell something, and criticizing him for not providing a
complete link to an alternative product to yours? You are insulting to
other posters, arrogant and rude.

What's wrong with this picture?
 
[ ... ]
No link. ?? You assume common electronic regulator is compatible with car
regulator? Another low grade expert.

I believe you'd find "www.ipdusa.com" to be a perfectly valid link,
if you knew how to use it. They're a specialty auto parts seller,
focusing on Volvo and Subaru cars. They don't sell generic electronic
components, just good qualtiy car parts and supplies.


Gary
 
richard said:
No link. ?? You assume common electronic regulator is compatible with car
regulator? Another low grade expert.


I gave the link to the company, it's not too hard to find the regulator,
they only sell a few. Also no, I don't assume. iPD is a Volvo
aftermarket and performance supplier, Volvo uses Bosch internally
regulated alternators in most of their cars made in the last 30 years or
so, and from what I've seen, the regulator is the same in the very
similar alternators in most Saab, BMW, and other Euro cars of the era.
They differ mostly in the mounting and pulley design. The regulator I
mentioned seeing is specifically for Bosch alternators, though it would
be easy to make the external version work with nearly any alternator so
long as you can isolate the field winding from whatever the original
regulator was.
 
richard said:
First your untested logic is only valid for those who make HHO (H2O)
generator. Go tell them that there is no free energy in a vehicle, people
still buy their product, that amazes me.

Second, your Kinetic energy is not there, it is minimized by your poorly
designed car, it is eaten up by your frictions. Do you want Proof? Your
10sc car cannot accelerate in 3 sc can it? Mine can.


you sounded like a self-schooling person, is the world black and white??

Why don't you send your complaint to BOSCH and ask them why they set their
voltage to 13.65 - 13.80V?

I bet BOSCH is smarter than any one of you posters, BOSCH is older than
all
your parents combined.


BTW -

BOSCH alternator maximum voltage is 14V, go read their label first and
THINK before posting,

Go ahead put an adjustable voltage regulators(like LM317K etc..) on your
alternator and come back to tell me your experience, OK?


LM317? That's an adjustable series pass regulator, it is *not* the same
as an adjustable regulator for an alternator which regulates the field
current depending on the output voltage.
 
LOL.
To answer the original question, yes, you can get adjustable regulators.
iPD www.ipdusa.com used to sell them, I think they still do. Probably
available from other places as well.

Sorry, there was no original question. It was spam for a fraud product
or a fake storefront to steal credit cards. Maybe both.

www.extra150miles.com is hosted by ThePlanet.com. Forward the spam to
[email protected] to help get the site nuked.
 
richard said:
Yes you can, there are two ways: one is to buy this device:

http://www.extra150miles.com/30trial.html

(you will get 14.09V instead of 13.80V, energy comes from Kinetic Energy,
not from fossil fuel)



Two is to send your alternator to me and I will fix it for you for $100,
you pay shipping on both directions. Recommend not to exceed 14.28V to
avoid destroying sensitive electronics in your vehicle.
[email protected], this method still consume fossil fuel.

Good luck,



Richard.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------



bosch alternators


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


need one or two more volts out of mine would like 14.2 or so only getting
13.8 am using to charge deep cycle batteries any ideas thanks oldtime

http://www.smokstak.com/forum/showthread.php?t=15136

What is the purpose increasing the voltage? Brighter lamps? More
acoustic power? Faster closing windows? Hoter computer?
 
First your untested logic is only valid for those who make HHO (H2O)
generator.   Go tell them that there is no free energy in a vehicle, people
still buy their product, that amazes me.

Second, your Kinetic energy is not there, it is minimized by your poorly
designed car, it is eaten up by your frictions.   Do you want Proof?  Your
10sc car cannot accelerate in 3 sc can it?  Mine can.

So, now a moving car has no kinetic energy. A new world of physics.
Of course, the rest of us know it does and that kinetic energy in 99%+
of all cars comes from fossil fuels.

It's quite laughable actually. We're supposed to believe that a guy
who can't even write a post that makes sense has figured out how to
remove friction from a car so that it has enough power to triple the
0-60 time.

Last time, wasn't it the water pump bearing that was supposed to be
consuming 20hp?


Why you sounded like a self-schooling person, the world is black and
white!!    Why don't you send your complaint to BOSCH and ask them why they
set their
voltage to 13.65 - 13.80V?

I have no complaint with Bosch or about my voltage regulator.. Nor
apparently does anyone else here but you.


I bet BOSCH is smarter than any one of you posters, BOSCH is older than all
your parents combined.

BTW -

BOSCH alternator maximum voltage is 14V, go read their label first and
THINK before posting,

Go ahead put adjustable voltage regulators(like LM317K etc..) on your
alternator and come back to tell me your experience, OK?

You're the one that wants to screw around with voltage regulators.
Mine are working fine.
 
John von Colditz said:
richard pretended :

Let me see if I've got this right. James is on this board constantly
helping folks out. His information is accurate, and to the point. You
are trying to sell something, and criticizing him for not providing a
complete link to an alternative product to yours? You are insulting to
other posters, arrogant and rude.

What's wrong with this picture?

Let me see here...

For over a year now, over 500 people bought FAKE capacitors without knowing
the truth, and you folks tried to tell me and BOSCH that voltage level is
not important and it's can be easily adjusted with any adjustable
regulator, if it's that easy BOSCH probably won't buy a GB(Great Britain)
regulator. You called my post a garbage, isn't that an insult to the
truth? to BOSCH too?

You don't know that I don't care if you buy my product/service or not,
because I am selling them faster than we can make them. I was only trying
to help you, two days ago, I heard on the radio, the Oil predictor said
next round you will end up paying $10.50/gallon. I hope that won't come
true any time soon. But when it comes, I will refuse to help you, I do not
care for your devalued $$$$.
 
James Sweet said:
LM317? That's an adjustable series pass regulator, it is *not* the same
as an adjustable regulator for an alternator which regulates the field
current depending on the output voltage.

Then be specific and give your Regulator's part # that you were referring
to, don't be too vague and expect people to read your mind.


It's not the question of " Where does Kinetic Energy come from?"

It's The question of " Why don't you smart people put it to benefit you?"
 
Roland said:
What is the purpose increasing the voltage? Brighter lamps? More
acoustic power? Faster closing windows? Hoter computer?


I think he is trying to imply that 13.8v will not charge your batteries
properly, which might be slightly true, but my 940 produces over 14.1v.
Also the original web site is gone now but I guess it was saying you
should get more MPG with more voltage.

I don't quite understand what the 'adjustable' ones are doing, The IPD
description don't make any sense. How can you prevent light dimming
when the voltage is dropping after the alternator/regulator, by
increaseing the regulation voltage?? You would want to decrease it, you
cannot regulate 'up' (without using DC-DC converter which is alot more
money at 10A). Perhaps they are just lower drop out regulators or able
to eek out a bit more current from the alternator but obviously this guy
is pretending to answer some query in order to sell stuff.

I do remember my friend as a short cut wired his stereo into the
ignition on/off line to power the 4x50w. His dash lights dimmed along
with the music. When I wired mine up I used a direct 12V supply to the
battery and an ignition on/off line, and got a noticable quality
improvement.

Strangely though the OP has answered some of the criticisms, but his
arguments make no sense atall, while he seems to be involved in the
automotive snake oil industry such a HHO. I guess English is not his
first language.

I am currently waiting the results of a HHO generator test in 'Car
Mechanics' magazine, the makers are claiming 5+mpg improvements by
mixing in locally generated HHO (electrolising water using the
alternator) in real time. But it all looks a bit too Heath Robinson and
actually dangerous to me, they talked about frozen relays lead to
explosions. I can't see how a 5+ improvement in MPG for free has been
missed to this point, but you do hear alot about how the car industry
like to supress this stuff. It is however more believable than 'free'
power from kenetic energy.
 
Tony said:
...I can't see how a 5+ improvement in MPG for free has been
missed to this point, but you do hear alot about how the car industry
like to supress this stuff. It is however more believable than 'free'
power from kenetic energy.

Have you seen the kinetic energy transmissions (KERS) they're using in
Formula one?
80 extra horsepower for ~6 seconds.
Seems like black magic to me.
 
I don't quite understand what the 'adjustable' ones are doing, The IPD
description don't make any sense. How can you prevent light dimming
when the voltage is dropping after the alternator/regulator, by
increaseing the regulation voltage?? You would want to decrease it, you
cannot regulate 'up' (without using DC-DC converter which is alot more
money at 10A). Perhaps they are just lower drop out regulators or able
to eek out a bit more current from the alternator but obviously this guy
is pretending to answer some query in order to sell stuff.


The regulator in an automotive alternator does not regulate the output
voltage directly as a linear series pass regulator such as the
ubiquitous 3 terminal regulators used in many small electronic devices does.

What it does do is control the field excitation current in response to
the output voltage of the alternator. As load increases and the voltage
starts to drop, the excitation current increases which increases the
output to compensate, the other effect being it increases the mechanical
load on the engine. The primary advantage of an alternator over an old
fashioned generator is that the brushes that transfer power to the
rotating assembly need only handle the current to the field coil in the
rotor rather than the entire output as is the case with a generator.

A standard automotive alternator can produce well over 100V if you drive
the excitation balls to the wall directly off the 12V battery with no
regulator. Indeed, it's a common trick used to run line voltage
incandescent lights and power tools driven by universal motors in
emergencies. Obviously one must first disconnect the output from the 12V
electrical system before doing this, and it likely does no favors for
the alternator but it does work.

In a nutshell, these adjustable regulators allow one to set the
reference voltage in the regulator against which the output is compared
to control the field current, which allows you to adjust the output. As
for reasons to do this, in many cars, the electrical system is not
really adequate. Older designs that got more and more accessories added
as they matured have more and more load on the system, and when you add
to that aftermarket devices you load things even further. Voltage drop
in the wiring and connectors that would be insignificant in a 120V or
240V household circuit become very significant when you only have ~12V
to work with, so sometimes boosting the stock alternator voltage up a
hair works nicely to compensate for losses elsewhere. Really it would be
better to rewire the entire car with heavier gauge wire and better
connectors throughout, but in most cases that's not really practical.
 
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