"check engine" light

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chunji08

Hi Forks,
I have questions again with my 1996 Volvo 850, it just turns to 90K
tonight, I was thinking I may have a birthday Party for it -:)

Anyway, ever since this car was after 60K, the 'check engine" light
goes on every 3-4 weeks. The error code is always P0410, which has
somthing to do with the bad air pump. What I usually do is
1. disconnect the battery for 5-10 minutes.
2. reconnect the battery.
3. re-enter the car radio code,
After that that light will be off until the next round. As long as it
does not damage the car, I am OK with it.

But this time, something is strange, the "check engine" light is on
again, I did the same procedures as usual, and after I start the car,
the "check engine" light comes back right away. I have tried several
times, it keeps the same.

I even borrowed that "OBD-|| " box from AUTOZONE to erase the CODE.
Still no Good !

Any ideas what the problem might be ?



-cji
 
I fount this at another site:

P0410 Secondary Air Injection System
code.

Turns out the valve has allowed water into the pump which was saturated when
it was removed. The assembly is located below the battery and pump + valve
was almost $400! I had to get this fixed due to emissions testing, otherwise
I wouldn't have bothered since there is no performance issue.

Another person replied:

If you don't want to fix it, you don't have to. The CEL will stay off for
anywhere between 300 - 1000 miles in my experience and if your car is good
an hot when you bring it in for inspection there's no reason for it to fail
(unless the check engine light is on). The air pump only helps heat the cat
up at cold start, so if you are at operating temp it's not doing anything.

Mine has been out of commission for a few months now and I passed emissions
in NY with flying colors.

No drivability implications either. The only concern is that I have heard
fuel trim is cut if the check engine light is on, so you may want to keep
reseting the light to avoid running rich/lean for too long.
 
When my '96 850 started periodically kicking on the P0410 (Secondary Air
injection) code, I replaced the bypass valve, the air pump, and the solenoid
valve (in that order). In all, I spent $600 on the problem, in parts alone,
and it never fixed it.
 
My question is it should be at least 3- 4 weeks before the check-engine
light goes on again.

Why this time it goes on right after I reset the code ?

-cji
 
My question is it should be at least 3- 4 weeks before the check-engine
light goes on again.

Why this time it goes on right after I reset the code ?

-cji
OBDII systems put a lot of codes in "pending" - a sort of purgatory where
conditions are watched for a while. When the system decides it has had
enough it sets the light - which could be after a number of cycles of
watching and deciding it was a false alarm. If you have a condition that is
getting worse (which is what it sounds like you have) it will progress more
smartly from "let's keep an eye on this" to "that's enough of that."

Mike
 
My question is it should be at least 3- 4 weeks before the check-engine
light goes on again.

Why this time it goes on right after I reset the code ?

-cji

My suggestion is now you have something else wrong too. The air pump
system is only checked by the computer after the car has been driven for
some time (i.e. warmed up) and is at idle. Anything that turns the
check engine light on right away has to be something that is
continuously monitored, like an oxygen sensor.

--
Mike F.
Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.

Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly.
(But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.)
 
Whould there be some OBD number that I may get when an oxygen sensor is
failed? And what is the symptons when this part is mul-function.

thanks,

cji
 
Whould there be some OBD number that I may get when an oxygen sensor is
failed? And what is the symptons when this part is mul-function.

thanks,

cji


Yes, there are several different codes possible, depending on what
exactly is wrong. Symptoms can be anything from none at all to poor
mileage and right up to rough running and low power. You need to know
what the codes are to proceed from here.

--
Mike F.
Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.

Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly.
(But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.)
 
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