F
Frank Furter
The "check engine" light just came on today during the drive home. I pulled
over, checked for any obvious loose wires, etc, but found nothing. I used
the diagnostic connector and found that it gave me a 2-3-1 code, which
supposedly means "fuel system compensating for rich or lean mixture at
cruise". I cleared the code and restarted the engine, but the "check engine"
light stayed on. The car seemed to drive normally, no loss of power or
acceleration, and the temp gauge stayed at its normal position. The car is
'89 240 wagon, automatic, with about 210,000 miles showing. I've owned it
for the last 40,000 or so, it passed the emissions test about 6 weeks ago
with completely normal numbers, and the O2 sensor was replaced about 10,000
miles ago. Any suggestions what I should check next?
m9876c at yahoo dot com
-------------------------------------------------------------
some additional information....
Checked all wires and hoses, everything seems secure and intact. Measured
the AMM heater pins, correct resistance. SAme with the O2 sensor heater.
From past experience, I know that if the AMM is disconnected, the car is
almost impossible to start, yet this morning it started easily when cold,
and ran fine last nite on the way home. Granted, that's not a guarantee that
the AMM and O2 sensor are good, but it seems to clear them of blame for now.
The manual mentioned "low fuel pressure" as a cause. Both pumps and the
filters were replaced about 1.5 years ago, and if that were the problem now,
I'd expect to have lost power on acceleration last nite, which didn't
happen, even when going uphill. Similarly, if there was a fuel delivery
problem, like a failed injector, I would have noticed the loss of power.
Same with ignition (Plugs and wires changed a few thousand miles ago)
I cleared the 2-3-1 code this morning before the cold start, and the "check
engine" light never went off after starting the engine. Seems that if it was
actually sensing a rich or lean situation (say, from a stuck injector), it
would have taken a few minutes for the system to realize it, so the light
should have gone off and come back on later.
Any other suggestions?... Car is perfectly drivable, I just don't want to
damage anything if it can be avoided.
over, checked for any obvious loose wires, etc, but found nothing. I used
the diagnostic connector and found that it gave me a 2-3-1 code, which
supposedly means "fuel system compensating for rich or lean mixture at
cruise". I cleared the code and restarted the engine, but the "check engine"
light stayed on. The car seemed to drive normally, no loss of power or
acceleration, and the temp gauge stayed at its normal position. The car is
'89 240 wagon, automatic, with about 210,000 miles showing. I've owned it
for the last 40,000 or so, it passed the emissions test about 6 weeks ago
with completely normal numbers, and the O2 sensor was replaced about 10,000
miles ago. Any suggestions what I should check next?
m9876c at yahoo dot com
-------------------------------------------------------------
some additional information....
Checked all wires and hoses, everything seems secure and intact. Measured
the AMM heater pins, correct resistance. SAme with the O2 sensor heater.
From past experience, I know that if the AMM is disconnected, the car is
almost impossible to start, yet this morning it started easily when cold,
and ran fine last nite on the way home. Granted, that's not a guarantee that
the AMM and O2 sensor are good, but it seems to clear them of blame for now.
The manual mentioned "low fuel pressure" as a cause. Both pumps and the
filters were replaced about 1.5 years ago, and if that were the problem now,
I'd expect to have lost power on acceleration last nite, which didn't
happen, even when going uphill. Similarly, if there was a fuel delivery
problem, like a failed injector, I would have noticed the loss of power.
Same with ignition (Plugs and wires changed a few thousand miles ago)
I cleared the 2-3-1 code this morning before the cold start, and the "check
engine" light never went off after starting the engine. Seems that if it was
actually sensing a rich or lean situation (say, from a stuck injector), it
would have taken a few minutes for the system to realize it, so the light
should have gone off and come back on later.
Any other suggestions?... Car is perfectly drivable, I just don't want to
damage anything if it can be avoided.