DEEP TROUBLE 1997 Volvo 960 Oil pan REMOVAL. HAS ANYONE DONE THIS!!

Discussion in 'Volvo 960' started by Paul Rood, Mar 27, 2006.

  1. Paul Rood

    Paul Rood Guest

    I have done the following.

    1. Jacked front end up one ft.

    2. Removed front wheels.

    3. Removed back cross brace which is under trans. bell housing.

    4. Jacked up engine as high as possible.

    5. Removed a million #10mm bolts from oil pan

    HERE'S THE PROBLEM!

    THE PAN WON'T COME OUT!!!!! It hits the back of the oil pick up
    tube AND,
    It hits the cross member / steering rack .

    Just bought it for my child. Oil light came on after 60 miles.....
    The oil drain ports
    are stopped up with this tar like black carbon goop. Its really
    nasty.

    What should I do. Dropping the steering /cross brace is major !
     
    Paul Rood, Mar 27, 2006
    #1
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  2. Paul Rood

    Glenn Klein Guest

    You have your answer you have to lower the x member to remove the oil
    pan not fairly easy lying on your back not realy a do it your self job
    I have been repairing volvos for a long time & this is my least favorite
    repair to perform you can either lower the x member or find either a
    local Volvo repair shop that will perform this or return to the dealer
    Glenn

    --
    "*-344-*Never Forgotten"
    Is for the New York City Firemen who lost their lives on September 11,2001.
    The official count is 343, but there was also a volunteer who lost his life
    aiding in the initial rescue efforts. And I will never forget them as
    long as I live,
    nor should any American.
     
    Glenn Klein, Mar 28, 2006
    #2
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  3. Paul Rood

    zencraps Guest

    There is another option.

    Get an engine crane / engine puller and remove the engine and / or
    transmission from the car.

    Not real difficult, if you have room and are indoors this time of year.
     
    zencraps, Mar 28, 2006
    #3
  4. I'm with zencraps - the engine really isn't very hard to remove from this
    state. Unless it is very different from the 740, the wiring harness
    disconnects at each end and comes out with the engine. By the time you get
    enough loose to clear the pan you are just about there.

    "... all it requires is the *will* to do so." Dr. Strangelove

    Mike
     
    Michael Pardee, Mar 28, 2006
    #4
  5. Paul Rood

    User Guest

    6. Remove jack stands and set car on ground. Loosen the bolts on either
    side of the steering shaft lower u-joint. Lock steering wheel so that it
    can't turn. You're going to separate the steering shaft and if it spins
    freely you'll snap the clockspring for the SRS contact in the steering
    column. A simple but expensive repair. Make and index mark on the rack
    splines and one one the u-joint to simply reassembly.

    7. Remove the rear two frame bolts that hold the engine crossmember in
    place. Slacken the front two but don't remove them. jack the car back up
    and set on jack stands. Put the transmission crossmemeber back in place.
    Remove the nuts holding the motor mounts to the engine crossmember. Jack
    up the motor as far as it will go. Separate the steering column at the
    u- joint as you go. Find or make somthing to go between the motor mount
    stands and the crossmember that will hold the motor away from the
    crossmember. Loosen the fron two bolts for the front crossmember and let
    the whole mess swing toward the front of the car. As the crossmember
    swings the pan may just fall out on the ground, otherwise you have to
    monkey with it a little bit. Once it's out do your thing.

    N.B. The pan is installed with an anerobic sealant. Loctite 515 or
    similar. Do not use any metal scrapers on the mating surfaces. Find or
    make a plastic scraper. Use Permatex gasket remover to soften the
    residue. It will take three or four applications. You can find a
    disposable 2 or 3 inch touch up paint roller at the paint or wallpaper
    store that uses the blow molded package for a paint tray. Squeeze some
    sealant into the tray and lightly coat the roller. Roll a thin even coat
    on the gasket surface of the pan before you put it back up. You don't
    need much to create an effective seal and the roller method works very
    well to evenly distribute the sealant. All the horizontal sealing
    surfaces af the motor are assembled this way. Under pressure the sealant
    will be fully cured after about six hours, but you really don't have to
    wait that long before running the motor.

    8. Reinstall the oil pan.

    9. Jack up the motor and remove the spacer blocks. Lower the motor back
    down onto the crossmember. Refit the motor mount stands, Refit the the
    lower steering shaft u-joint. Tighten the front crossmember screws
    slightly. Jack up the car from the front. Remove the jack stands. Lower
    the car and let the crossmember rotate back into place. Install the rear
    screws and tighten the fronts. Tighten the steering shaft u-joint,
    unlock the steering wheel.

    10. Refill the motor with oil. Use synthetic oil, 10W30, it doesn't
    sludge nearly as much and it makes the lifters very happy. Keep the oil
    change interval to no more than 5000 miles or about 4 months with
    synthetic, especially if the car will be doing a lot of short trip
    driving.

    Bob
     
    User, Mar 28, 2006
    #5
  6. Paul Rood

    Paul Rood Guest

    FIRST Thanks for your expertise.

    YOUR ITEM #7.

    I went to loosen one of the 4 engine crossmember nuts, and snapped off
    bolt from its welding mark. Now the nut and bolt just spins freely.


    HOW TOUGH IS IT OT RAISE THE ENGINE 6 INCHES! [ I told you I was in
    deep. ]
     
    Paul Rood, Mar 28, 2006
    #6
  7. Paul Rood

    Paul Rood Guest

    What do I do to remove the big thing under the hood? Do I have to go
    through the bell housing to unbolt the Transmission?
     
    Paul Rood, Mar 28, 2006
    #7
  8. Paul Rood

    doc Guest

    Paul:

    I see this is one of several new threads and still wonder...did you
    ever do the engine flush I recommended?

    I still maintain that would have been the FIRST thing to do before all
    else.

    Regards,


    Doc
     
    doc, Mar 29, 2006
    #8
  9. Paul Rood

    Paul Rood Guest

    O h yes! you are correct what I should have done was to flush it with a
    pressurized machine flush. I did a 5 mim. flush out of the can ,and that is
    what intensified the screen blockage. That's what I will do once I get the
    goop out and the engine back together.

    Thanks any other help or ideas!
     
    Paul Rood, Mar 29, 2006
    #9
  10. Paul Rood

    doc Guest

    Hello Paul:

    Unless you want to remove the steering rack and drop the cross member
    etc, removing the engine and transmission as a unit is the easiest way
    to accomplish the job. That's only MY opinion and the way I would do
    it, as it takes considerably less time and is a lot easier.

    Regards,


    Doc
     
    doc, Mar 31, 2006
    #10
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