Disable EGR? 240

[Josh]

1983 240 w/ B23E engine (Running on LPG)
Here is something to ponder;
A while back i reported to this forum a strange and sudden loss of
economy, thanks to all that gave suggestions. In desperation to fix
the problem, i decided to test the operation of the EGR by
disconnecting and plugging the controlling vacuum line.
I ran the car, and noticed no difference while idling or accelerating,
but while cruising the car runs much nicer. The vacuum gauge (also
referred to as an economy gauge) was reading about 50% up its scale
with EGR connected, now it is sitting at about 15%, and instead of
pressing the pedal about 1/4 of the way to cruise at 80km/h, its now
happy at about 1/8. This seems like a vacuum problem to me, but the
control line i unplugged is connected directly to a diaphragm, no
hoses or linkages for it to lose pressure in.
Is it possible the EGR is sending too much exhaust back through the
system at cruising speed?
Has anyone had a similar problem, and can give some insight to how it
would be fixed?
Is it even worth fixing?
here in AUS we don't have emissions testing, and as far as i
know the EGR is only there in this particular car to pass these
emissions tests. I'm leaning towards just leaving it disconnected, as
the car is running nicely without it, but still a little skeptical of
long term engine damage, i've heard from some places it can cause
detonation.
Thanks

Ohh...if it helps, oxygen probes in the exhaust give a reading of
about 20:1, which is WAY lean, yet any more fuel and the car gives
rich burning symptoms. Maybe the EGR is returning fresh air to the
engine, or allowing it to leak into the exhaust, giving a lean burn
reading?

wow, that was a long post! Maybe i should get out more.....

Josh

 

[Josh]

No one has disconnected an EGR before?

 

[James Sweet]

No one has disconnected an EGR before?

People do it on various vehicles, I've never had a Volvo that had it in the
first place but it should be obvious how to disconnect it, it's not a
complex system.

 

[Josh]

People do it on various vehicles, I've never had a Volvo that had it in the
first place but it should be obvious how to disconnect it, it's not a
complex system.

I've figured out how to do it, i just wanted to know if anyone has had
an experience where it has damaged the vehicle to have it disconnected

 

[James Sweet]

I've figured out how to do it, i just wanted to know if anyone has had
an experience where it has damaged the vehicle to have it disconnected

It won't damage anything, most 240s never had it to begin with, I think it
was a California only thing.

 

[Tim..]

I've figured out how to do it, i just wanted to know if anyone has had
an experience where it has damaged the vehicle to have it disconnected

You will not do any damage.

Tim.
..

 

[Josh]

It won't damage anything, most 240s never had it to begin with, I think it
was a California only thing.

Awesome, thanks. Apparently its the Australian model as well, the
B23E engine. This week i've used about 15% less fuel with it
disconnected, to me that seems a huge gain for a simple procedure. I
shall continue to absorb the benefits though

Josh

 

[Chris]

Awesome, thanks. Apparently its the Australian model as well, the
B23E engine. This week i've used about 15% less fuel with it
disconnected, to me that seems a huge gain for a simple procedure. I
shall continue to absorb the benefits though

Josh

Hi Josh

I'm in Sydney with a 1982 245, B23E engine also. My fuel consumption
has also deteriorated. I'm doing 13l/100km with a 50/50 mix of town
and freeway. How did you discontect the EGR? About 2 yrs ago I had an
exhaust leak which the mechanic said was a hole in the EGR pipe from
the exhaust manifold pipe to the EGR that goes around the back of the
engine. I also recently cleaned the throttle body - the connection to
the throttle body from the EGR pipe was absolutely clogged solid with
muck, although the throttle body was quite clean. I noticed that there
is also an EGR "valve" down near the starter motor. I'm wondering if
that is also completely logged, and if cleaning it will assist.

Anyway, back to original question - how did you disable the EGR?

Any other insights on how to improve KM per litre?

Chris

 

[Josh]

Anyway, back to original question - how did you disable the EGR?

Any other insights on how to improve KM per litre?

Chris

Simply unplug the vacuum line going towards the valve, near the
starter motor like you said. You'll have to plug the line with
something, but the valve can be left as it is. The EGR will think the
car is always at idle, and will never pass any gasses back through the
engine. For me, that was the single biggest cause of economy loss,
mine increased by 15%. You may have to adjust the idle slightly after
disconnecting it, but nothing serious.
I dont think cleaning out the pipes would make a big difference, as if
it clogged, the engine would run the same as if it were disconnected,
right? Its not really worth trying to revive the system if it is
broken.
Probably the second biggest KM/L improvement that i notice is just
after fresh oil, change it at least every 5-6 months, the engine seems
to need it more regularly than others.
Ohh....and if it is an auto, make sure the kick down cable is tight
enough. Mine had stretched, and so the car was shifting into a gear
too low for the application, which put quite a large dint in my
consumption.

Let me know how it goes!!

Josh

 

[James Sweet]

Simply unplug the vacuum line going towards the valve, near the
starter motor like you said. You'll have to plug the line with
something, but the valve can be left as it is. The EGR will think the
car is always at idle, and will never pass any gasses back through the
engine. For me, that was the single biggest cause of economy loss,
mine increased by 15%. You may have to adjust the idle slightly after
disconnecting it, but nothing serious.
I dont think cleaning out the pipes would make a big difference, as if
it clogged, the engine would run the same as if it were disconnected,
right? Its not really worth trying to revive the system if it is
broken.
Probably the second biggest KM/L improvement that i notice is just
after fresh oil, change it at least every 5-6 months, the engine seems
to need it more regularly than others.
Ohh....and if it is an auto, make sure the kick down cable is tight
enough. Mine had stretched, and so the car was shifting into a gear
too low for the application, which put quite a large dint in my
consumption.

Let me know how it goes!!

They sold an E engine mated to a slushbox? Man that thing must be horrid off
the line, some cars in Canada got the B23E motor, as far as I know it always
had a manual transmission, and what an impressive motor that was. Feels
almost as powerful as a stock turbo.

 

[Josh]

They sold an E engine mated to a slushbox? Man that thing must be horrid off

the line, some cars in Canada got the B23E motor, as far as I know it always
had a manual transmission, and what an impressive motor that was. Feels
almost as powerful as a stock turbo.

Yeah its a pity isnt it? I think i spoke to you about the possibility
of a conversion, its just a bit out of my price range though. Its a
shame, like you suggested, 3 speed really doesnt go off the line
well. once its moving however the engine produces a surprising amount
of power. I find i tend to use the shifter quite a lot to force it
into a lower gear, to keep revs in the sweet spot.

It still makes me smile when my 2.4L volvo can overtake cars on the
highway with 4L displacements (really shows how crappy Australian
engineered cars can be)

 

[James Sweet]

Yeah its a pity isnt it? I think i spoke to you about the possibility
of a conversion, its just a bit out of my price range though. Its a
shame, like you suggested, 3 speed really doesnt go off the line
well. once its moving however the engine produces a surprising amount
of power. I find i tend to use the shifter quite a lot to force it
into a lower gear, to keep revs in the sweet spot.

The price range can be anything from zero up to thousands depending on how
much you pay for the parts. Can't you pick up an old rusted/wrecked manual
tranny 240 for a song now? Perhaps they're old enough to be scarce over
there?

 

[Josh]

The price range can be anything from zero up to thousands depending on how
much you pay for the parts. Can't you pick up an old rusted/wrecked manual
tranny 240 for a song now? Perhaps they're old enough to be scarce over
there?

Problem is, most go to wreckers, and wreckers around me for some
reason charge a fortune for transmissions (and they are almost always
stuffed because of the way they transport the cars around the yard).
I can get a rebuilt one from a place near me for a few hundred, but
when i added up the cost of all the new parts, and the labour
involved in changing them over, its just not feasible at the moment,
considering the actual value of the car itself (its also my only mode
of transport, if i were to screw it up i'd lose my job). Maybe in a
year or so when i have some money and time i'll go through with it, if
i do, your bound to get an email from me

Till then, i'll just have to live with it.

 

[James Sweet]

Problem is, most go to wreckers, and wreckers around me for some
reason charge a fortune for transmissions (and they are almost always
stuffed because of the way they transport the cars around the yard).
I can get a rebuilt one from a place near me for a few hundred, but
when i added up the cost of all the new parts, and the labour
involved in changing them over, its just not feasible at the moment,
considering the actual value of the car itself (its also my only mode
of transport, if i were to screw it up i'd lose my job). Maybe in a
year or so when i have some money and time i'll go through with it, if
i do, your bound to get an email from me

Till then, i'll just have to live with it.

I'd look to buy a whole wrecked car, then you have everything you need right
there and the cost can be much less than buying the parts piecemeal from a
wrecker. When you're done pulling all the bits you want, you can sell the
rest for scrap.