DL240 1985 Volvo std trans. only 4th gear works??

My son was driving the Volvo and suddenly realized he only had fourth
gear. It is a standard transmission, five speed. Sure enough, you can
shift into each gear but only 4th gear works.

I pulled the transmission and removed the top off. The oil was bad,
looked like water had been mixed in it or something else. So no
lubrication was the cause of the problem.

Everything looks fine inside the case. Shift through all the gears, but
still only have 4th gear when the first yoke is pushed forward. Does the
shaft from the engine side go all the through the housing to the back. I
can see where the back yoke wants to connect two gears but nothing
happens when it does.

is there anything I can do to get it up and running again?

TIA
Helaman

 

4th gear runs straight through when engaged and does not take power off
the layshaft. Does the layshaft turn when you rotate the input shaft? If
the gearbox was run out of oil then it'll need a full rebuild to work
properly again, it's pretty easy to find good used ones though, if you
happen to be near Seattle there's an M47 missing the bell housing in my
garage that you can have for free.

 

Try new oil and a prayer, maybe it sludged up and something is
sticking from bad oil. OIl and water looks like choclate milk, running
through any big puddles for fun? A Flood? Is there an oil pump and
filter like an automatic?

 

Yes, the layshaft turns when the input shaft is rotated. also, like the
next poster said the fluid inside, although a little over a quart, was
chocolate looking stuff.

Bummer, not close to Seattle, but I am in Sacramento which actually puts
us in the same time zone.

 

with a little more light on the subject I can see the first gear on the
layshaft is stripped. I tried to move it with a screwdriver on the pieces
of teeth still there, but at last no movement. I am assuming the matching
gear must be stripped also.

Is it possible to order just the gears I need to replace from volvo or
third party vendor. I guess also if I am capable of tearing the box down.

Also, found a M46 trans on ebay for $100.00. They claim it will work in a
1985 DL240. Will it really replace a M47 5 speed trans?? Haven't really
found any good photos of either M46 or M47 transmissions on the net.

From the education I am getting on Volvo transmissions, LOL, it appears
the M46 is a better tranny but I am assume it has a different shifter
than mine since the M46 has a button for the overdrive? of course mine is
just a straight piece of metal with knob on the top.

btw, thanks for you help

 

Sacramento has a pick and pull among other boneyards. Surely you could
grab a M47 from them.
Use it whole or just the guts.

 

Freight from Seattle ought to be less than 100.00

 

The M47 is a straight 5 speed, ie 5 gears. The M46 is the old M45(?)
4-speed with
an electric overdrive added to the end of it. You could change over to the
electric OD,
but you'd have to put in all the electrics. That would be wiring if it
isn't already there,
and at least one relay.

To really understand them, check this out from the 700/900 FAQ:

http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/TransmissionManual.htm

There are wiring diagrams in the Haynes manual for the 740 that are
accurate. They
don't tell you where things are in the 240, but it works the same. James
might be able to
confirm/deny that.

Also, swedishbricks is another valuable information source.

http://www.swedishbricks.com/contents.html

Browse through that and see what you find.

The easiest route in my mind is to find a used M47 and swap it in.

Oh Yeah !!!!!!!! I believe you need to get the driveshaft or at least
the front half
of the driveshaft that came with the M46 if you do that. The tranny lengths
are different.

good luck, /glenn

Try new oil and a prayer, maybe it sludged up and something is
sticking from bad oil. OIl and water looks like choclate milk, running
through any big puddles for fun? A Flood? Is there an oil pump and
filter like an automatic?

 

I don't wanna try to pack it and certainly wouldn't pay $100 for an
untested gearbox.

 

Your car has an M46, it's a 4 speed with separate overdrive. The M47 is
an integrated 5 speed, they're mostly interchangeable, front driveshaft
section is different but most of the internal bits are the same too.

You don't even wanna know what new gears cost from Volvo, and if the
gears were damaged from low fluid the bearings are shot too, you'll
spend at least a couple thousand dollars on parts to completely rebuild it.

Call some junkyards, find a good used M46 and pop it in there, these are
plentiful and rebuilding a transmission is spendy and a really big project.

 

ok, so here is the end of the story.

Went down to Sacramento to a Volvo & Saab Auto Dismantlers, Inc.
3539 Recycle Road
Rancho Cordova, CA 95742

They had a M47 transmission they had just pulled out of a 740.
Paid $350 for it with 100 days warranty. Looks in nice shape. will mount
it up over the weekend and be driving again.

BTW, He (counter man) said they are becoming rare birds. also, told me a
friend of his has a 240 with over 750,000 miles and still going strong.

thanks for everyones help

Helaman

 

As I said earlier, if you put the M47 in, you will need to find the
front section of driveshaft from a '87 or later manual 240, as well as
the rubber mount that bolts to the crossmember at the back end, the
gearbox is considerably shorter (and lighter) than the M46 that you have
in your car. You'll probably also want the pattern cap for the shift
knob, though the knob itself is the same. The M47 is a true 5 speed
without the separate electrically activated overdrive unit on the back.

Many of the internal bits are the same, which is why I offered you the
incomplete M47 I have, but you don't want to tear apart a transmission
if you don't have to. The M47 will give you better fuel economy anyway,
but put synthetic fluid in it, they are known for worn synchros.

 

Well, I hate to say it but I am back at the well.

First, I confused the year of my Volvo when I started, it is a 1988.
I had another vehicle that was a 1985....sorry

my problem now is: I wanted to replace the oil in the new transmission.
I was able to open the bottom plug and drain what seems to me to be not
very much fluid, it was about maybe half a cup of a nice purple looking
stuff.

Second, The top plug won't break free. I broken a nice 13mm socket on it.
try a wrench and did some stripping on the bolt, restored to vice grips
and a large hammer. now it is just a bolt with a round top....geeez

I have a mig welder, I was thinking weld a large bolt on to the top of
the stud. Could I ruin anything doing that?

or just fill the case through the drain plug and never think every
changing the oil again other then removing the transmission from the car.
or build a ramp to turn the car on its side, lol.

so from what I have read, the material says fill till the fluid reaches
the top fill plug, but never says how fluid appx that might be. Since I
would be filling from the bottom, how much fluid could I safely put
without worrying about over filling the unit?

I have all the books that can with the car but nothing gives spec on the
vehicle. Had a Clitton(sp) book I had bought, but is now missing...
fighting an uphill battle here....

thanks

 

I've had that same problem with a fill plug before. Fortunately the plug
is steel and the case is aluminum, the latter of which expands more when
heated. Take a propane torch and heat the casing around the plug, likely
it will come right out. I replaced the plugs on mine with older style
ones that have much larger bolt heads on them. Don't put it back in the
car with the thing rounded off, if the fluid ever leaks you'll have to
pull the whole transmission to top it off.

Ideally you want to slightly overfill an M47, supposedly it helps reduce
synchro wear. The M46 holds 2.4 quarts, I think the M47 is a bit less.

 

Thank You

 

Here is someone elses fill plug nightmare:

http://www.stepbystepvolvo.com/Resources/brass plug.pdf

Several techniques I've heard of:

Use an arc welder. Ground to the tranny, then touch on the bolt,
and let it get hot. Theory is that it burns out the corrosion (galvonic)
crap
in the threads.

In the above reference, just before the vise grips is the sears spiral
bolt
remover. I managed to strip the 10mm allen bolt holding a front caliper.
I used the sears thing, and presto.

Tap on the head of the plug with a small (ball peen?) hammer while
alternately trying to tighten and then loosen it with a box end wrench.

I've had a lot of success using a box end wrench, hold it in place, and
then gently but repeatedly tap on it with a small hammer. Don't beat it,
you're trying to act like an impact wrench.

Douche the hell out of the threads with PB blaster, or there's one other
out there that is supposed to be better (don't know the name).

Using an impact wrench, or even battery power impact driver, put it on
low, and alternately tighten and loosen it. As you go, adjust the wrench to
go a bit harder/stronger, ie keep increasing the power, gently.

As someone mentioned, you have a bimetal situation. Aluminum and steel
don't mix. You get galvonic corrosion caused by dissimilar metals. It's
all the
way thru the threads from inside to outside.

If you manage to force it and strip the threads, start looking for the
rubber
expandable emergency oil pan plug....8*)))

Good luck, /glenn

 

Please accept my apologies for top posting.

thanks, /glenn

 

: Well, I hate to say it but I am back at the well.
:
: First, I confused the year of my Volvo when I started, it is a 1988.
: I had another vehicle that was a 1985....sorry
:
: my problem now is: I wanted to replace the oil in the new transmission.
: I was able to open the bottom plug and drain what seems to me to be not
: very much fluid, it was about maybe half a cup of a nice purple looking
: stuff.
:
: Second, The top plug won't break free. I broken a nice 13mm socket on it.
: try a wrench and did some stripping on the bolt, restored to vice grips
: and a large hammer. now it is just a bolt with a round top....geeez
:
: I have a mig welder, I was thinking weld a large bolt on to the top of
: the stud. Could I ruin anything doing that?
:
: or just fill the case through the drain plug and never think every
: changing the oil again other then removing the transmission from the car.
: or build a ramp to turn the car on its side, lol.
:
: so from what I have read, the material says fill till the fluid reaches
: the top fill plug, but never says how fluid appx that might be. Since I
: would be filling from the bottom, how much fluid could I safely put
: without worrying about over filling the unit?
:
: I have all the books that can with the car but nothing gives spec on the
: vehicle. Had a Clitton(sp) book I had bought, but is now missing...
: fighting an uphill battle here....
:
: thanks

Hi Buckaroo,

The M47 gearbox has an oil capacity of 1.3 litre; 1.4 U.S. quart; 2.3
Imperial Pints. (Haynes).

Good Luck.
Andy I.

 

That is very helpful and may help me yet but I can't help laughing...
been there, done that

 

You know He talks about filling through the overdrive switch, I would
think I could fill mine, eventually through the brake light switch,would
be easier to get at than the OD switch....