B
Bonnet Lock
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
What model?
noreply@invalid said:
What model?
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N
noreply@invalid
How do I change the front pads on my 88 Volvo Estate.
N
noreply@invalid
1988 740 Estate
Bonnet Lock said:In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
What model?
--
Cheers,
Bonnet Lock
______
Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is invalid.
P
Peter Milnes
Check in your Haynes or Chilton workshop manual.
Cheers, Peter.
: 1988 740 Estate
:
:
:
: : > In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
: >
: > > How do I change the front pads on my 88 Volvo Estate.
: >
: > What model?
: >
: > --
: > Cheers,
: > Bonnet Lock
: > ______
: > Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is invalid.
: >
: >
:
:
Cheers, Peter.
: 1988 740 Estate
:
:
:
: : > In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
: >
: > > How do I change the front pads on my 88 Volvo Estate.
: >
: > What model?
: >
: > --
: > Cheers,
: > Bonnet Lock
: > ______
: > Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is invalid.
: >
: >
:
:
N
noreply@invalid
Good idea, except the manual will not give you tips also is will not answer
questions you pose it.
questions you pose it.
B
Bonnet Lock
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
I can deduce from the picture, the front brakes are broadly similar - but
not identical - to those on my 1999 V70.
In general terms, for each front wheel:
* Turn the steering so that the wheel in question is pointing outwards
* Jack up the front of the car and remove the roadwheel
* Compress the hydraulic cylinder to provide clearance between disc and pads
[Do this with a pair of pliers or G-clamp between the pad and back of the
cylinder. DO NOT lever on the disc. Make sure that the master cylinder
doesn't overflow - sucking excess fluid out with an old hypodermic syringe
(minus needle!) if necessary]
* The cylinder assembly is fastened to a bracket attached to the hub
assembly by one or two large bolts - which allows it to move sideways
slightly to press both pads against the disc. Remove this bolt/these bolts
and carefully pull the cylinder assembly - complete with pads - forward,
clear of the disc. [Leave the flexible hydraulic hose attached, and support
the cylinder assenbly so as not to strain the hose
* The handbook should specify a minimum permissible disc thickness and
maximum permissible runout. [You will need a micrometer and dial gauge to
measure these. BOTH discs must be replaced if either is out of spec or badly
scored]
* Assuming the discs are ok, fit the new pads in place of the old one -
taking careful note of the position of any anti-squeal shims - and
re-assemble
*Pump the brake pedal a few times to centre the pads
I have a parts list - but not repair instructions for this model. From what1988 740 Estate
I can deduce from the picture, the front brakes are broadly similar - but
not identical - to those on my 1999 V70.
In general terms, for each front wheel:
* Turn the steering so that the wheel in question is pointing outwards
* Jack up the front of the car and remove the roadwheel
* Compress the hydraulic cylinder to provide clearance between disc and pads
[Do this with a pair of pliers or G-clamp between the pad and back of the
cylinder. DO NOT lever on the disc. Make sure that the master cylinder
doesn't overflow - sucking excess fluid out with an old hypodermic syringe
(minus needle!) if necessary]
* The cylinder assembly is fastened to a bracket attached to the hub
assembly by one or two large bolts - which allows it to move sideways
slightly to press both pads against the disc. Remove this bolt/these bolts
and carefully pull the cylinder assembly - complete with pads - forward,
clear of the disc. [Leave the flexible hydraulic hose attached, and support
the cylinder assenbly so as not to strain the hose
* The handbook should specify a minimum permissible disc thickness and
maximum permissible runout. [You will need a micrometer and dial gauge to
measure these. BOTH discs must be replaced if either is out of spec or badly
scored]
* Assuming the discs are ok, fit the new pads in place of the old one -
taking careful note of the position of any anti-squeal shims - and
re-assemble
*Pump the brake pedal a few times to centre the pads
P
Peter Milnes
If you read it and apply your common sense it will answer any question you pose.
Try not to act like a retard theres a good chap.
Cheers, Peter.
: Good idea, except the manual will not give you tips also is will not answer
: questions you pose it.
:
:
:
:
: : > Check in your Haynes or Chilton workshop manual.
: >
: > Cheers, Peter.
: >
: > : > : 1988 740 Estate
: > :
: > :
: > :
: > : : > : > In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
: > : >
: > : > > How do I change the front pads on my 88 Volvo Estate.
: > : >
: > : > What model?
: > : >
: > : > --
: > : > Cheers,
: > : > Bonnet Lock
: > : > ______
: > : > Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is invalid.
: > : >
: > : >
: > :
: > :
: >
:
:
Try not to act like a retard theres a good chap.
Cheers, Peter.
: Good idea, except the manual will not give you tips also is will not answer
: questions you pose it.
:
:
:
:
: : > Check in your Haynes or Chilton workshop manual.
: >
: > Cheers, Peter.
: >
: > : > : 1988 740 Estate
: > :
: > :
: > :
: > : : > : > In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
: > : >
: > : > > How do I change the front pads on my 88 Volvo Estate.
: > : >
: > : > What model?
: > : >
: > : > --
: > : > Cheers,
: > : > Bonnet Lock
: > : > ______
: > : > Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is invalid.
: > : >
: > : >
: > :
: > :
: >
:
:
N
noreply@invalid
I not the written word not the most difficult to understand.
The manual does not always show you the easiest way to do a job.
Would rather listen to " additional " advise via a newsgroup before taking
on a job I have never done.
" Measure twice cut once "
The manual does not always show you the easiest way to do a job.
Would rather listen to " additional " advise via a newsgroup before taking
on a job I have never done.
" Measure twice cut once "
B
Bruce Pick
True??
I've changed pads on our 240's many times, and one does not need to
remove the caliper from the hub to swap out the pads.
Does the 740 require caliper removal to change pads??
Further, does it have a sliding-caliper mechanism, not the solid caliper
with cylinder-driven pistons for both inner andouter pads??
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
To send email, remove all < > and [ ] and the junk ~ between:
[brucepick1]
< a~t >
[comcast.net]
I've changed pads on our 240's many times, and one does not need to
remove the caliper from the hub to swap out the pads.
Does the 740 require caliper removal to change pads??
Further, does it have a sliding-caliper mechanism, not the solid caliper
with cylinder-driven pistons for both inner andouter pads??
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
To send email, remove all < > and [ ] and the junk ~ between:
[brucepick1]
< a~t >
[comcast.net]
Bonnet said:In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
1988 740 Estate
I have a parts list - but not repair instructions for this model. From what
I can deduce from the picture, the front brakes are broadly similar - but
not identical - to those on my 1999 V70.
In general terms, for each front wheel:
* Turn the steering so that the wheel in question is pointing outwards
* Jack up the front of the car and remove the roadwheel
* Compress the hydraulic cylinder to provide clearance between disc and pads
[Do this with a pair of pliers or G-clamp between the pad and back of the
cylinder. DO NOT lever on the disc. Make sure that the master cylinder
doesn't overflow - sucking excess fluid out with an old hypodermic syringe
(minus needle!) if necessary]
* The cylinder assembly is fastened to a bracket attached to the hub
assembly by one or two large bolts - which allows it to move sideways
slightly to press both pads against the disc. Remove this bolt/these bolts
and carefully pull the cylinder assembly - complete with pads - forward,
clear of the disc. [Leave the flexible hydraulic hose attached, and support
the cylinder assenbly so as not to strain the hose
* The handbook should specify a minimum permissible disc thickness and
maximum permissible runout. [You will need a micrometer and dial gauge to
measure these. BOTH discs must be replaced if either is out of spec or badly
scored]
* Assuming the discs are ok, fit the new pads in place of the old one -
taking careful note of the position of any anti-squeal shims - and
re-assemble
*Pump the brake pedal a few times to centre the pads
B
Bonnet Lock
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
From the illustation in an old VADIS system to which I have access, the
caliper has 2 pistons - both on the same side - and has to slide in order to
balance the forces. It *looks* similar to a 70-series caliper - where the
pads are fitted first, and the caliper slid over the top - rather than like
the sort where the pads are held in by pins, enabling them to be removed
without removing the caliper.
Bruce Pick said:True??
I've changed pads on our 240's many times, and one does not need to
remove the caliper from the hub to swap out the pads.
Does the 740 require caliper removal to change pads??
Further, does it have a sliding-caliper mechanism, not the solid
caliper with cylinder-driven pistons for both inner andouter pads??
From the illustation in an old VADIS system to which I have access, the
caliper has 2 pistons - both on the same side - and has to slide in order to
balance the forces. It *looks* similar to a 70-series caliper - where the
pads are fitted first, and the caliper slid over the top - rather than like
the sort where the pads are held in by pins, enabling them to be removed
without removing the caliper.